Freightliner Non-CDL rear disk brake caliper bolts stuck

The_Josh_Bear

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Title kinda says it all... have a Freightliner non-CDL(26,000lb) 4-wheel disk truck that needs new rear caliper, rotor, etc. But I cannot get the caliper bolts off to save my life-- they are 18mm for God knows what reason but there's no access for an impact and I can't keep a wrench on them. Would they have red threadlocker on them from the factory? Even if they did, how would you heat them up without destroying the boot?

I know I can cut them but then I still have the bolt stuck in the caliper bracket. What do pros do? @Nero

Thanks all,
-Joshua
 

Nero

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Some do come with red lock tite on them, there's been 3 vehicles out of the hundreds I've done where I had to use a lift, rest a ratchet handle on a floor jack, then lower it down, using the weight of the vehicle to break it loose.
But that is pretty uncommon. Usually due to access I've always used a 1/2 drive ratchet that has a 3ft handle and then just muscle it off. Leverage is key. Chances are it's torqued to 200-300ftlbs. I assume a light duty m2 chassis?
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Dang, you're the man! Thank you. That is a CRAZY amount of torque for an 18mm head. -Lame
Yes it's a light M2. I'm not sure how light, pretty sure it's a "normal" class B M2 with smaller/lighter axles and tires. It's our only non-cdl shred truck, most of the others are CDL M2's of various types.
I also forgot to mention the year, I think 2019. Forgot to check.
If only I had a lift... but great way to leverage. I was thinking if red thread locker I could run a small weld bead outside where the threads would be on the caliper bracket to weaken that junk. Would also expand the area around the bolt.

I ran out of time or I would have done the breaker bar thing, it took me so long to find the right size socket in the mish-mash of tools we have where this thing is parked that I ran out of time.
 

Nero

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Another thing I've done, when bolts reeeaally aren't wanting to play along, chain binder bars work as an EXCELLENT cheater bar extension. If you don't have one of them, a floor jack handle that fits over a ratchet also works. Just remember, the longer the bar, the easier it is to break loose, no welding to make it softer necessary.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Do you know where I could find the bearing torque/preload specs along with the outer hub nut torque?
 

The_Josh_Bear

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I busted the top one loose! It's all about having the right tool...18mm end wrench with another wrench for more leverage. No space for 1/2" socket hardware.

1FVACWFD8LV8949

And while you're in there I'd love to know the book hours on rotor/pad/caliper replacement and reinstall, if possible.

Thanks again, @Nero !
 

Nero

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Yourre 2 digits short of a Vin my guy
 

Nero

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Caliper bolt torque for bendix air brake is 285 ftlbs
As for the hub, here's a photo.

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It also depends if it has a standard race bearing, or a preload bearing, these specs are assuming it's a standard bearing style, where you set your preload then re-adjust the adjustment nut to allow .003 - .005 hub play.


I scrolled down further, they actually have directions for setting bearing play lol

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The_Josh_Bear

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These bearings had a pipe like spacer between them. The inner nut was very, very tight, around 200ft pounds when I took it apart. Not like a standard bearing setup I'm used to. More like a pinion bearing and crush sleeve but this doesn't crush.
I torqued the inner nut to 250 rotating the hub, and it spins great. The bearings aren't squished, spins as good as the front hubs on my F250! I don't have a way to measure hub play here, doh.
 
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Nero

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Those are presets, you torque them once and it's set. The cone is a one time use and needs to be replaced each time.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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Do you know how many hours this is supposed to take by the book? I'm just curious as it was a solid job.
 

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