Installing a push button

[maximus88]

Well on top of needing a new lock cylinder, something else broke in my steering column not allowing the linkage to push the switch all the way for the starter. I can't pull the piece out without taking the 2nd half of the column off. It is a square piece of pot metal stock that seems to be 4-6 inches and I am guessing it is supposed to have an L shape at the end. Any one know what I am talking about. I believe it is the piece that locks the cylinder using the lever under the column.

Can I install a push button an still use my key? If so how is the best way to go about this?

Thanks for any help. Oh yeah it is an 88 F250

Thanks

 

[94turboidi]

I know what your talking about. Its a piece of cast aluminum. I have bought them at ford but noticed the other day the parts store had one in the aisles w/ other help parts, etc. It was 10.00 When you get the column down far enough where you can almost get that piece out the black part will be blocking it. If you screw a screw into the side u can wiggle out a aluminum insert. I really can't think of a way to explain it but if you get some pictures of it apart I can point it out. It seems difficult the first time, after that its easy.

 

[dsltech83]

that piece is called the ignition actuator.

 

[94turboidi]

I would repair the column myself. Its actually easier in my opinion. If you go push button you would need a switch to turn power to accessories then your push button would be wired to the fender solenoid to tell the starter to start.

 

[alienturtle]

I have full push button start and ignition. I used 4 relays to accomplish everything. I took everything out of the steering colum. take a pic of the piece you need and i prob have it somewhere as i dont use my keys anymore. let me know. keys are over rated

 

[papastruck]

Not sure how you're going to get the use of a key without fixing that actuator, since the arm's the linkage between that and the switch down under the dash. But it's not that bad of a job, like 94 said. It didn't take me more than a couple lazy hours following these instructions:

http://www.stolenandrecovered.com/howto/rack04.php

And, surely there's a saying, if I can do it... Those guys sell the actuator arm, though Rock Auto and LMC has it for less.

 

[maximus88]

Okay cool, I thought that would be a hard part to find. I will look in the help section of the parts store tomorrow.

I have it most of the way apart now, so it shouldn't be too bad.

Thanks for all the help guys, I will let you know how it goes.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I have full push button start and ignition. I used 4 relays to accomplish everything. I took everything out of the steering colum. take a pic of the piece you need and i prob have it somewhere as i dont use my keys anymore. let me know. keys are over rated

That is also what I am working towards.

I have part of the equation already in operation and the rest laying on the bench, waiting for time and fair weather to both occur on the same day.


Although there are numerous trucks, tractors, and such that came from the factory without accidental engagement protection, it is a good idea to have a master toggle-switch protecting the push-button circuit, such that the toggle must first be ON before the push-button can trigger the solenoid/relay.



To the original poster, YES you can install a push-button that will also work alongside the other key functions, so long as those functions still work with whatever is going on with your present set-up.

Just run a HOT wire to the push-button and from there to the START terminal of the solenoid/relay on the right fender.

 

[maximus88]

That is also what I am working towards.

I have part of the equation already in operation and the rest laying on the bench, waiting for time and fair weather to both occur on the same day.


Although there are numerous trucks, tractors, and such that came from the factory without accidental engagement protection, it is a good idea to have a master toggle-switch protecting the push-button circuit, such that the toggle must first be ON before the push-button can trigger the solenoid/relay.



To the original poster, YES you can install a push-button that will also work alongside the other key functions, so long as those functions still work with whatever is going on with your present set-up.

Just run a HOT wire to the push-button and from there to the START terminal of the solenoid/relay on the right fender.

Oh yeah, didn't think of that. That is pretty easy actually

Found the actuator for 13.99 at Advanced Auto. We are supposed to get a little snow, so I am going to work on this tomorrow so I can plow my driveway.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I have full push button start and ignition. I used 4 relays to accomplish everything. I took everything out of the steering colum. take a pic of the piece you need and i prob have it somewhere as i dont use my keys anymore. let me know. keys are over rated

I have all the lock-related stuff removed as well, the tumbler itself is still there but only to fool potential thieves and to provide me with a place to hang my keys while driving. My switches use no relays tho, I probably should have some but my wiring is fairly nightmarish under there already, and my switches are nice heavy-duty Eaton ones...

 

[bike-maker]

I had the same situation. Pulled a $8 Wilmar remote start switch out of the tool box - clipped the alligator clips on the starter solenoid, and ran the wires through the engine bay, behind the fender, and in through the pass. door. Left it like that for a few months.

 

[alienturtle]

Although there are numerous trucks, tractors, and such that came from the factory without accidental engagement protection, it is a good idea to have a master toggle-switch protecting the push-button circuit, such that the toggle must first be ON before the push-button can trigger the solenoid/relay.

I have 3 other master switches that hidden through out the vehicle which must be ON before the main one on the dash will even turn on the ignition..

I have all the lock-related stuff removed as well, the tumbler itself is still there but only to fool potential thieves and to provide me with a place to hang my keys while driving. My switches use no relays tho, I probably should have some but my wiring is fairly nightmarish under there already, and my switches are nice heavy-duty Eaton ones...

exactly what i did..looks like a normal steering column from the outside but its just a key holder on the inside Thanks to you again hehe!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

I have 3 other master switches that hidden through out the vehicle which must be ON before the main one on the dash will even turn on the ignition..

While this is nice as an anti-theft setup, I would be concerned about having to switch all that stuff on while being in a hurry. For that reason I actually removed my hidden FSS switch not too long after I installed it.

exactly what i did..looks like a normal steering column from the outside but its just a key holder on the inside Thanks to you again hehe!

Again, you're more than welcome, and if you have other electrical ideas let me know

 

[alienturtle]

Again, you're more than welcome, and if you have other electrical ideas let me know

I just about got everything together to install my on-board air setup and train horn and wire that up..thats easy though... ill let you know how it goes..

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Did you figure out what displacement that compressor is? Also what pressures you plan on running? Any plans for a hand-throttle setup to go with all that?