am6.9idi
Registered User
Where can i get a injector hole reamer and a injector pump wrench? And how much do they cost?
Injector hole reamer and Injector pump wrench
- Thread starter am6.9idi
- Start date
Wyreth
Certifiable Noob
Which IP wrench do you mean?
If you're talking about the wrench used to adjust the pump for timing. freebird01 makes this one, and it's rather fantastic:
http://www.terrapinmfg.com/display.php?prod=23
If you're talking about the tight space wrench to used to loosen the nuts on the back of the gear tower. Most of us either get a 9/16 tight space wrench from HF then attack it with a grinder. Or get a normal 9/16, bend it with a torch, THEN attack it with a grinder.
as for the reamer... have you checked Fleabay?
If you're talking about the wrench used to adjust the pump for timing. freebird01 makes this one, and it's rather fantastic:
http://www.terrapinmfg.com/display.php?prod=23
If you're talking about the tight space wrench to used to loosen the nuts on the back of the gear tower. Most of us either get a 9/16 tight space wrench from HF then attack it with a grinder. Or get a normal 9/16, bend it with a torch, THEN attack it with a grinder.
as for the reamer... have you checked Fleabay?
junk
Full Access Member
I found universal sets on Amazon for about $75. I think the ford specific tool is going to be hard to find unless you just happen to find one.
http://www.amazon.com/DIESEL-INJECTOR-SEAT-CUTTER-SET/dp/B0080YFP5I
http://www.amazon.com/DIESEL-INJECTOR-SEAT-CUTTER-SET/dp/B0080YFP5I
www.tooldiscounter.com carries the reemer, it isnt cheap. A shotgun bore brush with some solvent usually works pretty good, just pAY attention and dont let any wires get down in there and wipe out teh debris
How to clean the carbon on the injector nozzle seat.
Rotate engine to bring piston up to TDC on the injector your working on. See below how.
Remove injector and glow plug.
Spray injector bore with carburator cleaner, PB blaster, Kroil or a like substance. WD40 doesn't work to good.
Remove copper washer from the seat. Large screw driver, driven into washer hole will usually do it. If it didn't come out with the injector.
With a seat reamer, use light pressure only enough to cut carbon, it's possible to "ripple" the seat.
If seat is grooved, then enough pressure to carefully cut seat.
With a 10 ga. shot gun bore brush, (RLDSL) in a variable speed drill.
Keep spraying with cleaner to soften carbon.
With a vacuum cleaner hose over the injector bore, spritz compressed air in the glow plug hole, this will remove any debris from the precup, but not any liquid, but that should evaporate.
The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.
Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left passenger bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side, front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.
Rotate engine to bring piston up to TDC on the injector your working on. See below how.
Remove injector and glow plug.
Spray injector bore with carburator cleaner, PB blaster, Kroil or a like substance. WD40 doesn't work to good.
Remove copper washer from the seat. Large screw driver, driven into washer hole will usually do it. If it didn't come out with the injector.
With a seat reamer, use light pressure only enough to cut carbon, it's possible to "ripple" the seat.
If seat is grooved, then enough pressure to carefully cut seat.
With a 10 ga. shot gun bore brush, (RLDSL) in a variable speed drill.
Keep spraying with cleaner to soften carbon.
With a vacuum cleaner hose over the injector bore, spritz compressed air in the glow plug hole, this will remove any debris from the precup, but not any liquid, but that should evaporate.
The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.
Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left passenger bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side, front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Sometimes the reamers show up on ebay but they list for around $300.00 new from OTC. Why do you feel you need to clean the seats in your engine. Usualy they are not damaged untill you have a leak of combustion that cuts both the head seat and the copper gasket. There was a pump turning wrench in a kent moore j33300-a timing meter about a month ago. It was listed by uhaul and free shipping anywhere. Cost was $199.00 and that was for both the meter and the wrench. Jason makes a great wrench. I have three of them and they work great. If you are looking for the nut wrench then your going to be looking for a long time. They rarely ever come up on ebay or anywhere. You can make your own by heating and bending a 9/16 combo wrench. Then grind both end to fit... Really simple. I have a viedo of what the factory and what my customized wrench loks like somewhere.
rockbender
Full Access Member
I recently replaced my injectors and had two "what the heck do I do now?" moments, especially in a van with worse access.
First, the screwdriver tapped in to retrieve the copper washer worked beautifully. Pulling out the first couple injectors without the copper washer attached I thought I was going to be in for a big chore.
Second, I also had quite a bit of carbon in the bottom injector seat. What worked good for me was taking a piece of stranded cable (I think it was #4 or #2) and cut off about 1/2" of the insulation. With the 1/2" of exposed copper strands, splay those out a little bit so they are the approximate diameter of the injector seat. stick the piece of wire in a piece of paper shop towel and use it as a swab - keep spinning it around and replacing the paper towel until you see a shiny seat and the paper comes out clean.
First, the screwdriver tapped in to retrieve the copper washer worked beautifully. Pulling out the first couple injectors without the copper washer attached I thought I was going to be in for a big chore.
Second, I also had quite a bit of carbon in the bottom injector seat. What worked good for me was taking a piece of stranded cable (I think it was #4 or #2) and cut off about 1/2" of the insulation. With the 1/2" of exposed copper strands, splay those out a little bit so they are the approximate diameter of the injector seat. stick the piece of wire in a piece of paper shop towel and use it as a swab - keep spinning it around and replacing the paper towel until you see a shiny seat and the paper comes out clean.
