injection pump

[steve phillips]

I have gotten to know a young kid on 1 of the 7.3 idi facebook forums. He bought a pump from DCP in Memphis, truck ran 3 hours and quit. He had to have it towed. Young fellow is 25 trying to work in his own tree cutting business. DCP won t respond to his e mail. I don t have a known good pump or I would give it to him. does anybody in the oilburners community have 1 they could help him with at a reasonable price he can afford. He lives on the other end of West Virgina from me, I live in eastern ky he lives near Wheeling. I think he is going to lose a core for trade-in in this deal. I wish I could have talked to him before to recommend Mel or Type4 or Thewespaul, but it is what it is. thanks, steve

 

[Thewespaul]

How long has he been trying to make contact with DCP? How did it act when it shut off? Typically these db2s don’t just fail like that, if he can cover the shipping to me and I can repair it without having to do a full teardown I won’t charge him anything.

 

[steve phillips]

according to him, wes truck acted like key was turned off. he has been trying for 2 days to get dcp to return email. I tried to talk him thru checking FSS but I don t believe he understood me very much. dcp people told him pump housing worn and had to be bored and sleeved. I will get a hold of him in the morning and get back to you. thanks very much for your generous offer. I told him somebody on here would try to help out. thanks again Wes

 

[Thewespaul]

Sleeving the housing in the advance piston bore is pretty common these days with the conditions of db2 cores. I use a ceramic sleeve that will wear much slower than a stainless piston sliding in an aluminum bore. I don’t know if anyone else uses a ceramic sleeve, most I have seen are metal, but that won’t make a pump fail like that either way. For a pump to just shut off like that I would wager

-Electrical/FSS issue
-Pressurized return/housing
-Mechanical failure from an incorrect assembly

Keep me posted, better yet get him on here or have him contact me on Facebook.

 

[steve phillips]

Wes, just got off phone with young man, DCP finally responded to him. I don t know how much they will do for him. He is going to message you on Facebook. I really appreciate your interest in helping and Macrobb has said offered a used pump if he has 1. I told the young man the Oilburners community was great to help each other and newcomers. He is going to call DCP tomorrow and see what they tell,also he is going to try to get his truck home. I believe any young person trying to work deserves some help. Thanks again so very much and I will let you know the plan.Steve

 

[Selahdoor]

For a pump to just shut off like that I would wager

-Electrical/FSS issue
-Pressurized return/housing
-Mechanical failure from an incorrect assembly

Keep me posted, better yet get him on here or have him contact me on Facebook.

I realize I am no expert, like Wes and others here, but from my limited knowledge and experience, and from the description of what happened... I would suspect the FSS more than anything.

Has he checked the FSS yet? With the key on, pull the wire, then touch it back to the terminal. If there is no clicking there is your culprit. Either an electrical problem, or the FSS is bad.

It's a simple check. It's free. And worth a try.

 

[Thewespaul]

Wes, just got off phone with young man, DCP finally responded to him. I don t know how much they will do for him. He is going to message you on Facebook. I really appreciate your interest in helping and Macrobb has said offered a used pump if he has 1. I told the young man the Oilburners community was great to help each other and newcomers. He is going to call DCP tomorrow and see what they tell,also he is going to try to get his truck home. I believe any young person trying to work deserves some help. Thanks again so very much and I will let you know the plan.Steve

I saw a message from him on Facebook, I’ll talk with him in the morning see where he’s at with things.

 

[steve phillips]

I have just passed these comments along to him by facebook message as I am sure he is asleep. Once again thanks to everyone for the help. Steve

 

[Charles Carse]

I appreciate all the help everyone! I have checked the fss, and it is indeed clicking. I have fuel coming from my electrical pump, but the mechanics shop hasn’t done much past that. Has had it for a week and hasn’t done anything so I might be bringing it back home and doing the work myself again. I spoke with Wes and he is suspecting possible low fuel pressure from the injection pump to the injectors so I have to get a fuel pressure valve installed. If anyone has a known running injection pump they wanna sell, I’m willing to purchase one and will send mine to Wes to get rebuilt. Again, thank you all for the help!

 

[Macrobb]

I appreciate all the help everyone! I have checked the fss, and it is indeed clicking. I have fuel coming from my electrical pump, but the mechanics shop hasn’t done much past that. Has had it for a week and hasn’t done anything so I might be bringing it back home and doing the work myself again. I spoke with Wes and he is suspecting possible low fuel pressure from the injection pump to the injectors so I have to get a fuel pressure valve installed. If anyone has a known running injection pump they wanna sell, I’m willing to purchase one and will send mine to Wes to get rebuilt. Again, thank you all for the help!

OK, next step:
Get the truck back, or do it yourself while in the parking lot. Most shops have no clue what they are doing, honestly.

First, check that you've got fuel to the IP - so just crack the low-pressure line right at the IP, to make sure it's bled.
Second, crack one injector line right at the IP - this way, even if there's air, you'll see bubbling as quickly as possible.
Third, floor the accelerator and crank for 10 seconds(key on). Watch for bubbles or fuel at the cracked IP line.
If you see bubbles, re-tighten the line at the IP, crack the lines at all 8 injectors and crank for a 15 seconds, let the starter rest for a bit. Repeat for a couple minutes or until you see clear fuel coming out.
If you see clear fuel, just crack a single injector line and watch that when cranking.

Once you've got clear fuel coming out of the injector lines at the injectors, re-tighten. Crank for another 15 seconds or so. If it doesn't start, you should see white smoke out the exhaust.
Assuming you have white smoke, now cycle the glow plugs a couple times and attempt to start.

If it still won't start, but you do get white smoke, leave the key on for 5 minutes (so the glow plugs cool down), and give it a small shot of ether into the air cleaner. Usually a second-long shot is what it takes for me, because most of it stays in the air cleaner and disperses over time. It should fire now.


Let us know what you tried, and what happened. I just want to see if I can't save you before digging out an IP and testing it.