Injection pump swap questions

[OldIron82]

I want to swap the injection pump from that new dump truck I bought with the rotted frame to my good 89 f350 dump.

1. The good pump is on a automatic truck and I believe it's called a FIPL on the side of it. Any reason that can't just sit on engine with a manual behind it?

2. The good pump appears to be more than a dimes width to the RIGHT of the static timing mark on the pump gear casing. Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't that ridiculously after top dead center aka retarded? If so would it still start and run like that, or is it possible it's off a tooth but was/is timed correctly?

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[Shadetreemechanic]

You can leave the FIPL on the pump, or take it off. It comes off easily.
The static marks are only good for the first pump build, so I wouldn't draw any conclusions about where a pump sits relative to the marks at this point.

 

[chillman88]

1. Not my area of expertise buy I believe it should be fine.

2. Could be retarded or could be right. No way to tell unless you get a timing meter on it. The marks are only "right" on the original pump when it left the factory. After a little wear they aren't right even with the original pump. You'll have to get a meter on it to know for sure.

 

[OldIron82]

Awesome thanks for the quick replies. When I install the new pump should I line up the marks and try and start it, or do the "dimes width" to the left of the line? I will get it properly timed in a timely manner.

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[Oledirtypearl86]

The marks are just to get you close enough to start so you can time it

 

[OldIron82]

Thanks

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[Oledirtypearl86]

Also if it has been bumped ahead I'd be suspicious of a worn IP but if it runs good what can it hurt

 

[icanfixall]

Look closely at the housing mark on the auto trcuk engine and compare it with the mark on the engine you plan to install the pump on. If they are the same location just set the pump as found to the way it looked on the other engine. Its "close enough" to run. Advance it till you hear the powerstroke rattle on a cold engine start.Then the sound changes when the fast idle cold electric advance shuts down. You really can hear the change. Also the engine seems to loose some advance horse power but not really.

 

[OldIron82]

Look closely at the housing mark on the auto trcuk engine and compare it with the mark on the engine you plan to install the pump on. If they are the same location just set the pump as found to the way it looked on the other engine. Its "close enough" to run. Advance it till you hear the powerstroke rattle on a cold engine start.Then the sound changes when the fast idle cold electric advance shuts down. You really can hear the change. Also the engine seems to loose some advance horse power but not really.

Excellent! Thank you all.

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[OldIron82]

Ok everyone, today I got the spider ( injection pump and injector line assembly ) off of the donor truck with the bad frame and 83,000 mile baby engine. Just for s**ts and giggles I tried to start it one more time before ripping it apart. 12 second burn on the glow plugs and it fired right up. WHY THE HELL DOESN'T MY GOOD TRUCK START??? [emoji35] The donor truck appears to be all original...grey colored injector caps, grey colored injectors, brittle rock hard hoses in between them, all original wiring harness, old looking GPC, olive washers concrete, and fuel heater still intact not deleted. The biggest kicker? The return line that comes outta the top of the injection pump is cracked! Cracked badly! No fuel coming out but possibly air getting in and it still started after sitting since before Christmas! Now, my good truck has all the aforementioned things replaced including one month old new batteries and ZD9 Beru plugs and R&D stage one injectors only a year old. No matter what I do it Will. Not. Start. Without Ether. No way. I really hope swapping this Injection pump does the trick, I have HAD IT with this slug. 3 years of having to spray it enough is enough. Yes the pump on it is beyond shot. It's turned all the way to the passenger side and that only achieved 5° BTC and the cold advance doesn't work. It has to be the problem, there is nothing left. What else could I possibly be missing???





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[chillman88]

What else could I possibly be missing???

I don't want to ask, but you asked....

Have you done a compression test?

If your timing is still not close enough with the new pump it's possible to be a tooth off on the timing gears too.

 

[Oledirtypearl86]

So did you put the pump on and did it start

 

[OldIron82]

I don't want to ask, but you asked....

Have you done a compression test?

If your timing is still not close enough with the new pump it's possible to be a tooth off on the timing gears too.

No, no compression test.

When I installed the current Injection pump to replace the factory one that wouldn't start when hot, I followed everyone's directions perfectly. Did not touch the gear housing, just loosened the nuts on the studs and removed the 3 5/16th bolts. I marked the gear in 3 different places and I am positive it did not move!

Are you suggesting that the previous owner may have had his hands in it and pulled the gear housing and reinstalled it a tooth off?

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[OldIron82]

So did you put the pump on and did it start

Not yet, tomorrow. Ran out of time today.

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[chillman88]

Are you suggesting that the previous owner may have had his hands in it and pulled the gear housing and reinstalled it a tooth off?

It's always possible. These trucks are all about 30 years old with multiple owners. I wouldn't assume it. It could just be a bad IP but I wanted to mention it before you drive your truck off a bridge on purpose lol.