Injection pump option

94turbocrewcab-lb

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So I recently swapped motors. Two things I may have over looked. The injectors look recently installed due to having a gun metal finish. The injection pump has a reman tag on it but it’s mostly corrosion rust colored..not pitted or anything just surface rust.

I went to install the factory turbo air intake and realized the injector lines are bent and don’t have the locking retaining clasp. So the lines are a bit hokey and I need to swap the factory unbent ones from my other motor.

The pump on the recently pulled motor seems to be a most recent reman as well and seems to be newer than this one. It has a gray color and no rusty bits.

So should I use my old reman pump and old fuel lines and see if that clears up smoking and a hot injector? Or do I stick with my rusty pump? I drove my last motor for 4 years and it seized up from sucking all the oil in from the turbo. But otherwise ran great.
 

Nero

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Did you ever see this new to you engine run? Does it smoke? Did your old engine? I'd go with the setup that wasn't smoking.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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I never saw it run before getting it home. I had it running while hanging from a chain. There was certainly a puff of white smoke coming from the drivers side manifold every few rounds. But it seemed good otherwise.

Does it take very long to change the fuel pumps? I just figure maybe my pump was just fine and the lines are good. But my old injectors look to be original.
 

Brian VT

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Just remove the pump and not the timing gear cover that it's attached to.
The 2 lower bolts of the pump are a pain to get at but not a big deal after you've done it once. Use a stubby open-end wrench on the passenger side (after removing the throttle cable connection) and grind down the thickness of a regular box end wrench for the driver's side.
More details here:
 
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Olds64

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Make sure you only change 1 thing at a time. In other words, don't swap to the parts engine injector lines AND the parts engine IP.

I'd just swap the injector lines and then see how she runs. You know you need the injector line brackets so start there. Good luck.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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And whatever you do, make sure to run those line clamps. Bent lines are tolerable, but no clamps WILL lead to a cracked line. Unfortunately I've been there and got the t-shirt.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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I was just thinking if it’s apart why not swap the pump to a known pump. I’m not sure I’d want to take the lines off twice or three times as I might do..

I figured pump and lines and then if they still not cleared up then injectors.

Timing has to be adjusted any time you change the pump right?
 

Brian VT

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Timing has to be adjusted any time you change the pump right?
Make a mark on it where it is before you take it off and it should run fine there (assuming it is in decent shape).
Fine tuning the timing later will just make it run better.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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Are all of the timing marks on the pump it’s self the same? Meaning the timing line on one pump vs another? So this all makes sense. I’ll read up tonight.

Anyone have ideas on time to complete this project?
 

Brian VT

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The marks are just a general reference to get you in the ballpark. Even if there are no marks it will probably run.
I did mine piecemeal and took my time. But if I went at it hard like I needed the truck then I'd guess 4 hours if all went well?
That's with no turbo. I don't have one.
You might also consider doing the "hard line delete" between the fuel filter head and the pump. It does away with the rubber "olives" that can cause problems when they go bad.
 

The_Josh_Bear

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If all you're doing is swapping pump and lines it's pretty quick, N/A would take an hour or so with the right tool and knowledge. But if you've never done it before double that for sure. It's possible with end wrenches just takes longer and you have to take the lines off one by one. With the right tool you can take them off as a complete spider web and not have to play a matching game later.

Timing marks are not the same from pump to pump, unfortunately. They are just a reference mark for "it'll start if you line it up here" but it's always retarded that way and needs adjustment. You need a timing meter or someone with one in order to dial in the timing. Good enough can be achieved but that's all it will be.
 

Brian VT

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...and I have a timing meter if you want to come here and use it when you get your truck on the road.
I'm north of Sebago.
 

94turbocrewcab-lb

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just read through the fuel servicing article. I love reading stuff like that!

So I have a factory turbo and I’m wondering can I just pull the pump with all the lines off at once? If so that’s what I’m going to do..I’ll just swap the whole shebang at once..I hope I can do that it’d certainly be easier.

BrianVT thanks for the offer man, I’ll keep it in mind but if I’m keeping the truck long term I may as well buy a meter. Im up by Acadia. So the fuel might pay for a good part of the meter.
 
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