IH Navistar Rear Main Seal

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Alright guys I did as I was told here and purchased the rear main seal set from IH Navistar. It had better be the right one and for the $93 I paid for it it had better not ever leak. lol
I don't have a problem spending $100 on a seal if it ensures I wont have a leak there for atleast 100k, but the metal sleeve sitting inside the seal seems to be awfully thick.
Does anyone know the correct process for installing this one?

Here's a couple pics of it. After dinner I'm gonna go work on my engine some more and I'll see if this sleeve has any possibility of fitting.

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[icanfixall]

Ford Parts Online (bob utter ford in sherman texas) is half that price.... Sorry you found this out the expensive way... So did I. That is the seal I have been using. The sleeve needs to be flush with the rear edge of the crank seal area. Then the seal gets pushed way deeper in the housing than one would think is possible.

 

[catman]

never installed one , but if it is like the cat engines you need a seal installer, also when I went to cat school they said seal is toast if you seperate the seal from the inner sleeve.
I have always installed with a tool so not sure about that. If memory serves me I think dt466 required a similar install tool.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

So the metal sleeve isn't the wear sleeve? Or do you press both on at the same time? I don't think I'm understanding what you're saying.

 

[icanfixall]

If you haven't read the complete directions you have no idea how this is designed to fit together but... It doesn't work that way. Every time I have done mine using the exact seal I install the wear sleeve on the crank first. Then I install the seal in the rear housing making sure its deeply installed. Otherwise the outer lip of the seal will not be picked up by the wear ring. There is a runout for getting the seal properly seated in the housing. Its around 20 thousands. Also that plate is located to the block with on alignment pin. You need to make sure thats lined up concentric to the rotating crank. You will feel when its setup properly. Use rtv at the pan to plate joint. Thats the place where you will get an oil leak. Also the crank bolts go thru to the oily side of the pan. Oil will leak out past the bolt threads so something needs to seal the threads. I use blue loctite and 47 lbs torque. Really an easy job...

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

When I get to that point I may give ya a call Gary. I have a book and it probably says something about it, but normally a main seal like that has a slip sleeve in it that you use to guide it onto the crankshaft. If I'm understanding this correctly the metal sleeve inside of the seal is the wear sleeve that I install on the crank. If that's the case then I'll be removing that sleeve from the seal. I do have the rear main seal installation tool and guide in my Rotunda kit, but I may call you just to make sure I'm understanding everything before I do it.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

boy i hope i installed my seal right, i used the one included in the engine seal/gasket kit. i only tapped mine in a little past flush...

-Jon

 

[icanfixall]

6.9scout... There are several differant types of seals available on the market. Some don't come with the sleeve. Usually the crank is worn so badly the sleeve is necessary. The seal pictured is the nylon type twin lip and must be installed dry. I didn't and its still working fine. Both seal lips must be supported by the sleeve or it wont function properly. Don't try to install an oem seal with a sleeve. It wont work. The front seals are a differant story too. They require the smae setup with a repair sleeve or you buy a new dampner... There around $100.00.... Seals and sleeves are way cheaper....

 

[6.9poweredscout]

well, it had a plastic "support" sleeve, i used it to install it. the front seal was pretty straight forward... i think....

-Jon

 

[typ4]

The rear wear sleeve can be removed from the seal kit, but do not get any oil or grease on it if it is the teflon lip type. It will leak/fail. The flywheel on some allthread and longer bolts makes a good sleeve installer.
6.9 scout. I used the seal in the kit, and then re used it when i did the piston replacement and it still does not leak, dont sweat it.

 

[RLDSL]

I got one of the teflon felpro jobs once and the darn thing would not go over the wear sleeve on the crank. The installer was too small and even when I did manage to stretch it over the seal split when I pushed it on . So if you have a wear sleeve, better off with plain old rubber seal.