I hate glow plugs

[ghunt]

Last weekend I replaced my #7 glow plug (under the turbo) because it was dead. Now, last spring I put in 7 brand new ZD9's, so I figured the one under the turbo was the only dead one left (especially because, despite the fact I had the GP's on a manual pushbutton, it was consistently lighting the WTS light for 8 seconds or so).

So I replaced #7 and hooked the GP controller back up. It started properly for about 2 days, and now it's back to the same old crap. The WTS light only stayed on for 8 seconds this morning, and when I started the truck it started fairly easy (of course it was on the block heater) but it ran a bit rough and blew out a bunch of blue smoke. Also when you start the truck after it's been running for awhile, the GP's actually stay on for a few seconds after the WTS light goes out, and then it doesn't do the afterglow cycle properly either.

Seriously, ***? Is my GP controller on the fritz? It was acting a little weird last year which was part of the reason I did the pushbutton, but around the same time I also found out I had some dead GP's.

 

[HammerDown]

There is a step-by-step test to do on the complete GP system...and it's very easy.
I can't post the info but I'm sure it's already on this forum...somewhere.
>Uh, Mel

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Solid state controllers rarely go bad, but we have had a few around my place do it, so we just run a push button system in all of them now. There's only one truck that doesnt have a push button on it and that's just because we haven't got around to converting it.

 

[Agnem]

Do some ohm tests and look for bad grounds.

 

[ghunt]

Well to follow this up, apparently my glow plug controller is just on the fritz. It was doing all kinds of wacky things, like leaving the glow plugs going AFTER the WTS light goes out, doing an "afterglow" cycle that was kinda like flash-flash-flash-flash, or not afterglowing at all.... I hooked the pushbutton back up, seems to be fine now.