Hydroboost 2019

Dirtleg

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Man I've been here long enough to search for stuff so if I missed something here feel free to point me in the right direction.

I've finally decided to start collecting parts for a hydroboost conversion. Seems my vacuum system only works when it's warm out, maybe. Tired of guessing whether or not I'll have brakes each day. I've spent a stupid amount of time trying to locate an intermittent leak and wasted money on a new vacuum pump already. Done. Time to move on.

Been through all the tech articles but sadly the parts lists for them is pretty much useless these days. Any of the OEM parts are discontinued it appears.

Does anyone have a clear path to hydroboost on these trucks using 99' and later hydroboost setups.
If I had more time available I'd figure all this out myself but I'm just strapped for free time these days and was hoping there might be information available.

Specifically power steering pump reservoir, Hydroboost unit, Master cylinder and hoses.

Thanks for any info.
 

mblaney

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I think you are looking for 1997 and older hydroboost for the best fit (least work). I know I bought a reservoir for mine... will see if I can find the info I posted here ;)
 

Dirtleg

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Man I appreciate the links, but those are all for converting using the older 92-97 F-Superduty systems.

Sadly the parts for them, such as the reservoir, are discontinued and seem to be all sold off.

I'm hoping to get info on using the 99+ superduty hydroboost systems like my 06' F250 had. Checking the wrecking yards near me the closest one with a 92-97 F-superduty was about 150 miles away and who knows what parts are left on it. I can find 99+ superduty parts all day long nearby. Just need to figure out exactly what to get.
 

nj_m715

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I played hell finding a reservoir when I did my 97 a couple yrs ago
finally found a nos on ebay
I was about drill and tap my old one to install my own barb

all of the rest of the parts I ordered from rock auto, only ran about 250$ if I remember right

I cheated and kept my master cylinder, just ovaled the mounting holes with a file

keep an eye on the marketplace, guys post the parts from time to time
 

nj_m715

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Thewespaul

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I’ve got some of the power steering res with two ports here, but I’d like to keep them. You can just put a tee in the return, plenty of guys have done that without issue, also made their own caps with a return tapped in. I would upgrade the mc as well instead of ovalling the holes, the newer mc has a larger bore and is a big upgrade itself.

Dirtleg, I just ordered the entire setup for Jerry and will be installing it soon, so I’ll have all the correct pn there once I’ve installed everything and confirmed fitment, I also went with the sd setup instead of the obs hydro setup, although there is a complete kit in the marketplace for $300.
 

gandalf

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Since you're doing this on a '93 I was going to suggest a wrecking yard, but apparently you've already tried that. When I did the conversion a while back everything at a local Pick-n-Pull. I pulled them from a Super-duty. I think I paid $50 for the larger master cylinder, with hoses attached, and the reservoir. I got lucky.
 

snicklas

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I think a member used a 99+ F-250/F-350 SuperDuty Hydroboost in a Brick, may have been @Greg5OH ........

If this is being done on a Serpentine Belt IDI, it would be a bit easier than a V-Belt IDI......

The 99+ (I have an 03 6.0, so that is what I am basing this on. I could take pictured if needed) Still uses the Ford C-2 Power Steering Pump, however it uses a remote mounted reservoir, that mounts to the drivers inner fender, behind the battery, beside the master cylinder.

If I were going to attempt the swap, (I'm not, the 2 IDI are now what I consider a hobby level vehicle, I enjoy them, respect them for what they are, but they are not going to be my daily driver/tow pig. I have the 6.0 to tow, and the 11 F-150 for Daily Driving and most truck stuff) I would take the booster and master off the firewall, grab the pedal (just in case because I'm sure the pedal box wouldn't swap over), all the hydraulic lines (to the pump, booster, reservoir, and steering box. The 3 sticking points (maybe just 2 depending on mounting the booster to the firewall) is placement of booster on firewall (in relation to the pedal, mounting method and spacing (studs vs bolts (not sure what either use), or bolt/stud placement), and connecting the existing brake lines to the SD Master, and connecting the hydraulic lines to the steering box (SD uses metric fittings, the Pre-99 Trucks use SAE). I'm sure adapters could be found to adapt the Metric Fittings to the SAE parts, and I'm fairly sure the SD line has a real cooler in it, instead of just the big loop bolted to the cross member. This way all the "truck stuff" stays stock except the adapters, and all he HB stuff stays stock SD stuff.

I think, the steering boxes may actually be the "same" except fittings, Metric vs SAE, so if you have a tired steering box, you may be able to use a SD box, and the SD lines will not need adapters.

Please understand, that is reasonable guess on my part. I've not tried to do this, but I think keeping as much of the HB stuff SD stuff, it would work better. Plus the remote reservoir holds more that the 3 or 4 "glugs" the on-pump reservoir holds.

The other issue I could see is on the V-Belt Trucks. I don't know if the pulley could be swapped over, and ford didn't make a V-Belt PSD......
 

Thewespaul

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That’s pretty much the plan with Jerry. Well see how it works, we have all the steering from the 03 on the 88 chassis so I’m going with the sd ps pump and res with all metric lines.
 

Macrobb

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I did this about 5 years ago, over on FTE: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1306283-how-not-to-do-hydroboost.html

Used a '03 E-450 hydroboost unit, the stock pedal, MC, PS pump etc. Needed all new lines and significant mods. See that topic for details.

It's still working as well as the day I slapped it together; that truck isn't my current DD, but the brakes still work very well.

One other thing to point out:
One of the advantages of this swap is that you can eliminate the vacuum pump. However, to truly eliminate the pump, you need to use an electric cruise module from a later model truck (which I also figured out), and use a non-vacuum climate control setup. Lower trim packages had mostly-non-vacuum, with it only being used for recirculation(which could just be ignored). Alternately, I saw the perfect control(all cables) in a similar year ranger.
 
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GoodB0Y

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I still think the BRB-37 is the best as it doesn't require firewall mods just a pedal mod.

They are getting harder to find but there's one on Ebay right now
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/303123724397

From what I've read its not exactly easy to mod anything else because of mounting stud spacing ect but doable I guess...

The BRB-37 even comes with the pedal rod which some others didn't.

I know of some who used a tee for the extra return ( no idea if that works or not)

I went with Russell powerflex hose and fittings... no worries about sourcing obsolete hoses now.
 

GoodB0Y

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And imho I think using the mc that was originally used on the truck is best as its proportioned for the brakes that are on the truck... hydroboost only increases the application pressure...some have complained about stiff pedals when using sd mc's probably because they were ment for disc brakes... the idi mc will fit if you slot the holes...

I don't recommend slotting the holes... just saying some people have and that's the route I'm going :)
 

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