How to wake up a 7.3 from a 10 year slumber

[sweet66monza]

I picked up a 140k mile 91 f250 non turbo for cheap with a blown transmission. Truck has been siting since 2004. I already swapped a D60 up front and its almost time to see if it runs. Ive started several gassers from sitting a long time but never a diesel. What do you guys recommend?

Thanks!

 

[franklin2]

Not much different from a gas truck. Pre-fill the fuel filter, if the glow plugs work it may start. Or disconnect the glowplugs and give it a small shot of ether while someone is cranking it over.

 

[Matt_INW]

I had a car with a gas engine (68 caddy) which sat for 3 or so years when I couldn't pay to fix a problem (not engine related). When I got it back on the road my mechanic at the time filled the crankcase up with transmission fluid (I don't recall for how many hours or days). The goal was to help the seals soften up/enlarge some. Then after the hours/days passed, drained it and put clean oil in it. I don't know if that's really a good idea or not, especially for a diesel.

It had no leaks for at least a week or two. But I'd say within a month the rear main seal started leaking alot, and was replaced.

Anywho...

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Pull all the glowplugs out. Squirt trans fluid into the holes. Not pour, But squirt with an oil can. The idea is some will splash off the piston top and onto the cylinder walls. Let sit for a couple days. While waiting, Replace oil and fuel filters with new. Change the engine oil at this time. I did this but not necessary is to remove all the belts for the accessories except alternator and water pump. This will make sense later. Pull the line coming from the filter housing to the IP off and run some tubing into an empty fuel can and flush out your fuel system. Diesel doesn't go bad like gasoline does. But, It does collect water and grow algae. This is assuming you have an electric pump. If still on the mechanical, Get an electric and delete the mech pump. If you're wondering why change the filter then flush is because what if the old filter is already clogged? This way, You know it isn't and it will be free flowing. Re-connect fuel line to IP. loosen the line caps at each injector with a 5/8" line wrench just enough where they're not tight. After the couple days to a week has passed and you have clean oil in the crank, get a 15/16" shallow socket with a 1/2" drive breaker bar if you have the room and SLOWLY turn the engine over by hand first. With no glowplugs in OR no accessories dragging it down like a vacuum pump or PS pump it should be MUCH easier. If you can't get a breaker bar in there, a pipe wrench with the jaws covered in tape and rags on the crank pulley also work. But, make sure the jaws are fully against the pulley other wise, you'll bend the belt guard some. If she turns over by hand at least 2 revolutions in both directions, put the glowplugs back in and bleed the spider lines down. If it has air, fuel, and some compression, it WILL run. Mine sat from '06 until now with apparently a severely blown headgasket and STILL RAN.

This is assuming everything else is good and she just needs freshened up to get running. I went through this but mine was a "*** DID I JUST DO?!" when I got it home kinda thing.... There is pictures all over showing it back then.

Its alot and not very detailed but its a start. Google and youtube are your best friends really. Its one to read how, Its another to see it done. I'm sure someone will come here and have better/more detailed info but its a start. 7.3's are just like the 6.9 except one has cavatation problems and the other doesn't but both have the same block.

 

[icanfixall]

Really no need to "squirt any oil in the cylinders to oil up the walls. Remember we have plenty of oil squirting up under each piston making EVERYTHING oiled very well. Putting any oil on top of a piston is nothing but feeding fuel to this engine. Remember we burn oil of any kind as fuel in these multi fuel engines.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Sorry, But I'd want my rings lubercated before I move them. Its not like I told him to put the oil then try to start it right after.

 

[riotwarrior]

Ifn it was me..

New Filters....

pull gp's and test em with ohm meter

Bar engine over by hand....if bars over ok

spin over 20 sec on 2 min off....no load on starter this way....bleed out fuel lines

Once fuel at the injectors instal gp a d reconnect...test if gp wait to start light works.....
.attempt to fire a couple times....no go... disconnect gp....whist spinning over ...weeee lil sniffs of either...should fire....

JM7.3CW Eh!

 

[icanfixall]

Not making a reason for oiling the rings but I still see no need to doing so. One piston will be going down as others are going up. I just do not see oil of any kind on top of a piston will do any good. We have an incredible amount of oil squirting up under the pistons that will lube the cylinders better than oil on top of them. This is purely advice and not... "Do it my way or else". We all have different beliefs on the same thing.

 

[funnyman06]

I think the hope of spaying oil on top of the pistons to to lube the rings that have possibly dried out over the last few years of sitting dry. This way on first spin its not dry rings on a dry bore. Ill be in the same situation shortly. I just picked up a used motor that was rebuilt not too many miles ago but has sat for an unknown period of time. New fluids, glow plugs, filters and we will see what happens.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

I think the hope of spaying oil on top of the pistons to to lube the rings that have possibly dried out over the last few years of sitting dry. This way on first spin its not dry rings on a dry bore. Ill be in the same situation shortly. I just picked up a used motor that was rebuilt not too many miles ago but has sat for an unknown period of time. New fluids, glow plugs, filters and we will see what happens.

Exactly. No need on scoring the bores for nothing. After 10 years, Those rings are arid dry and movement can/will score the crosshatching. The oil will at least lubricate them enough to move to see if they're locked. If anything, Will loosen any rust that may have formed in the cylinders. Yes, there are "squirters" UNDER the pistons but they require oil pressure to work. You won't get that pressure turning by hand. And, They're under. You need the oil on top for the ones moving up and after a while, The oil you put on has had time to seep past the rings and down the walls so you have lubrication there too already so when you hit with the starter, You have oil already so you won't do any damage.

 

[icanfixall]

Exactly. No need on scoring the bores for nothing. After 10 years, Those rings are arid dry and movement can/will score the crosshatching. The oil will at least lubricate them enough to move to see if they're locked. If anything, Will loosen any rust that may have formed in the cylinders. Yes, there are "squirters" UNDER the pistons but they require oil pressure to work. You won't get that pressure turning by hand. And, They're under. You need the oil on top for the ones moving up and after a while, The oil you put on has had time to seep past the rings and down the walls so you have lubrication there too already so when you hit with the starter, You have oil already so you won't do any damage.

Your just not going to "let this go" are you.... Then in this case please sqirt in some oil. Be happy but really... You what to convince yourself you are doing protection to the upper side of the bore...... Let the fun begin.. I am in no way knocking you for what you believe in either. If... There is rust on top of the bores above the rings best I can say is opps..rings are not very good at scrapping rust from cylinders or not a good as a 3 stone honing tool.

 

[Cruiseomatic]

The hope is that there is no rust in the cylinders and using oil is to keep from needing to pull the heads and use a 3 stone honing. But, To each their own "ignorance" I suppose. You're dead set against using oil for whatever reason and I'm dead set for using it because I know what can happen if you don't from experience.

We'll just agree to disagree.

 

[riotwarrior]

The hope is that there is no rust in the cylinders and using oil is to keep from needing to pull the heads and use a 3 stone honing. But, To each their own "ignorance" I suppose. You're dead set against using oil for whatever reason and I'm dead set for using it because I know what can happen if you don't from experience.

We'll just agree to disagree.

In theory uour idea is sound..in practice it does little based on engine design.

If it was an inline verticle engine I would lean towards aflgreeing with you.

Based on personal experience....when squirting oil into a V engine that is oriented correctly like mounted in a teuck..the oil does not disperse evenly over the crown of piston and down evenly around the rings.

In fact it will seek the lowest point due to this force known as gravity...this draws the fluid into pooling around the loest portion of the piston in the bore....the outside edge of cylinder. Yes that is the primary thrust side howevwr the upper portion should be oiled too but cannot u less you rotate and reorientate engine so on bank of pistons is in a verticke arrangement...then vica versa.

Dont beleive me.....drop oil in a tilted coffee can see how much goes to the high side.

JM7.3CW Eh!.....but *** do I knkw...talk to newton or some physics dude who knkws more n I see if he can explain how the oil goes up ?????


Just sayin

 

[Cruiseomatic]

Thats why you "squirt" the oil in. So when it hits the piston top it splashes up and out in all directions. In theory, You could pour and fill the cylinder but then how do you know when to stop? I guess aslong as there is some type of lubrication there thats what matters. Not necessarily how.

Dont beleive me.....drop oil in a tilted coffee can see how much goes to the high side.

JM7.3CW Eh!.....but *** do I knkw...talk to newton or some physics dude who knkws more n I see if he can explain how the oil goes up ?????

What does newton know? He just stated the obvious. We learned nothing from him.
(Note: sarcasm)

 

[Hydro-idi]

All good points here. In reality, doing either or isn't going to do any harm to these engines. Any bore scuffs due to rust will eventually clean themselves up during engine run time. Ask me how I know. Gary should remember a few years back when I pm'd him. I accidentally left coolant in one of the cylinders when I was doing a headgasket job, which did cause cylinder bore to rust. Well a year later when I tore back into the engine, the rings cleaned up that surface rust just fine & dandy.
Like Al mentioned, oiling the chambers will only supply oil to about 1/8th of the ring surface area which might help IF that's where water had accumulated. "Dry" rings won't hurt anything especially if engine isn't new or rebuilt. Maybe perhaps a fogging oil should be used if it makes you feel any better.