How to replace your mechanical fuel pump with a Facet Duralift electric fuel pump

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reklund

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Great write up! One suggestion is to use a relay connector pigtail rather than the uninsulated crimp on terminals for a "cleaner" install, and to prevent accidental short circuits. Also, aren't electric pumps designed to "push" rather than "pull" fuel from the tanks? It's my understanding that the closer to the tank you can install the pump, the better. Any feedback on that?

Ryan
 

DesertBen44

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The push pull debate has been beaten to a pulp in the last few weeks, some say better near the tank, but we have people on here who talked to facet tech reps, who said MAKE SURE the pump is sucking and not pushing fuel. I chose in the engine compartment because it is safe and i plan on taking this rig off road a lot.

AS far as the wiring goes, this was just what i found at pep boys, I will have to look into the relay connector pigtails and see if it makes sense to use them instead (luckily I left plenty of wire as room for error)
 

DesertBen44

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and jbuck- no not nearly long enough, I used a new flex line to bridge the gap from the hard line coming from the tank and the inlet side of the pump. The run of hose had to be about 3 feet long.
 

icanfixall

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Nice writeup with the pics too. I noticed something in one of the pics.. Its the pic of the engine showing something kinda dark on the air filter around the center wingnut. Looks like water or rain water. I see water staining too maybe.. If thats whats going on get a new hood cowl seal or that water will get into the filter and suck into the engine.. Its happened to some noteworthy members here too.. We are supposed t have a rubber washer but they do wear out and never get replaced till its way too late... Another thing about this great pump... They really suck fuel better than they push fuel. Don't believe it... Next time you see a refrigerated semi trailer going down the road look at the spare tire under the rig. See the fuel tank for the frig unit under the trailer. Now look at where the unit it way up top in front of the trailer. Thats about a 25 ft draw and a pull up hill of about 11 ft.. Yeah they suck mighty fine there buddy...:sly:love:
 

DesertBen44

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Icanfixall- Yeah that worried me when i first saw it too.

Its definitely oil, clean oil, it was there when I picked up the truck after having its coolant system flushed; the shop supposedly randomly lubed parts of the truck as a courtesy thing, maybe they lube that area so the threads go in better? or so the seal seats better? Not really sure.

I will keep a close eye on it in case its trouble and see whats going on, thanks ;Sweet
 

plywood

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I've had a Duralift mounted in almost the exact same spot for about 3-4 years now and it works great. Between my current truck and the last, same pump, same spot.

I used some conduit and a hub, same as some water pipe with the base you can screw it into with four screw holes. With that and the right u-bolt, the pump is anchored down good to the platform that holds the voltage regulator and such. I'm a little worried those brackets in the pictures won't stand up to the vibration. I am not willing however to divulge how I know such a thing.LOL (different project)

For the relay, I just bought a constant duty 30 amp relay for aux lighting from the AP store and it's been working. Same numeral designations for those.
 

02x72

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Although it would be less of a lift on the frame rail, and as a result easier on the pump, wouldn't it still be pulling the fuel as it has to pull it out of the tanks since the pickup is at the top of the tanks? Ive been wondering that since I started researching this.
 

runkeeg26

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Everyone keeps saying boo about the pump being so far from the tanks. Could you just put a 8-10 psi in line pump by the tank then this one in the cab? I like the idea of the pump being under the hood. Btw is this pump still working out for you? any hiccups so far?
 

Dave 001

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-Attach Doorman male connector to female connector on pump
(Product may be mislabeled, my male connector was labeled female)



I'm posting this to hopefully prevent somebody else from going thru the same run-a-round that I went thru......The plug you have pictured is in fact a female plug........they (the industry) goes by the TERMINAL gender......not the HOUSING gender. True story.....I mail ordered a plug from Wrangler Power Products one time and they sent me the wrong half.......I called them up, they said 'no problem' and sent another plug free of charge........again the wrong plug showed up......called them back again, we discussed the problem, and that's when we figured out what was going on......I was ordering the plug based on the gender of the housing (which is wrong).......I needed to order the plug based on the gender of the terminals. Kind of strang because that is the opposite of high voltage (120/240 volt, etc) plugs. Even thought the goof-up was my fault, WPP sent the correct plug free of charge (very good company to deal with). Hopefully this post prevents somebody else from having to go thru a run-a-round.

Dave
 

tbryanh

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...we have people on here who talked to facet tech reps, who said MAKE SURE the pump is sucking and not pushing fuel.

I am in the process of putting a facet dura lift along with a racor seperator/filter down on the frame rail near the the fuel tanks. I sent an email to the facet engineering department describing the install, and the person who replied said the pump should work good in that location.

I am pretty sure I have scoured the oilburner website for all info on the dura lift pump. I am pretty sure I did not see any info about making sure the pump is sucking, not pushing.
 
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