How to replace your mechanical fuel pump with a Facet Duralift electric fuel pump

[DesertBen44]

How to- Install an Electric Fuel Pump in your IDI

NOTE- I am no expert on this, but during my install I consulted the forum many times with questions, figured I would try and create one thread that could answer most questions people may encounter, and show those skeptical about making the switch just how easy it is. Lots of people on this forum help me so I'm just trying to pass it on to whoever is next.

WHAT YOU NEED

-Fuel pump (I used the Facet Dura-Lift/Carrier Transicold Pump supplied by Genlightning

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-2 1/8 MPT-3/8 hose barb brass fittings (90 degree)

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-1 brass fitting to fit onto your pump inlet (Mine was destroyed so i bought a 1/4 MPT-3/8 MPT angle piece, and a 3/8 FPT to 3/8 hose barb and used that)
Also some people probably feel better using thread-locker, some probably don't. I did on the fuel filter housing threads

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- Connector Piece (Doorman female 2 terminal tower PN 85390)
Purchased at Pep boys for around $10, im sure you can find it cheaper
online)
I realize you can just cut the connector end off the pump and so splices, but I chose to take this route in case I ever have to temporarily remove the pump, will be easy off and on.

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-Various Electrical connector pieces (splice, ring terminal, shrink wrap, conduit if you want it to look professional)

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- Relay

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-Fuel Pump Block off plate for Big Block Chevy

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Mounting bracket (i had to create one, so doubt pieces of steel from home depot meant for building decks

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Came out with this

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___PROCEDURE___

MOUNTING THE PUMP-

-Mount bracket to Passenger side front fender. I just used screws/fender washers/nuts, nothing fancy

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-Attach Brass Fittings to the pump, and attach pump to bracket

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ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION-

-Attach Doorman connector to pump
(Product may be mislabeled, my male connector was labeled female)

*** EDIT ***

Apparently they judge connectors by the terminal gender, NOT the housing gender, so my connector was actually female.

First work the ground wire

-Splice in additional black wire long enough to reach a solid ground. I used this ground next to the pass side battery
-Hook up another wire to the chassis ground, and attach it to the relay (Pin 86)

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-Pull battery voltage from nearby always powered source (I chose this thing near the battery, im sure someone will inform everyone what it is) And make sure to have an inline 5amp fuse. Hook up to the relay (Pin #30)

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-Hook up electric pump power wire to relay (Pin 87)

-Splice a wire into your fuel shutoff solenoid (Ontop of your injector pump) And hook the other end of the wire to the relay (Pin 85)

(Forgot to take a picture before i covered in conduit! Sorry!)

In case you are wondering, the relay will have numbered terminals that correspond with those 4 numbers on it.

 

[DesertBen44]

CONTINUED-

FUEL LINE INSTALLATION-

NOTE- before cracking fuel lines, make sure you dont have a full tank of fuel, and the nose of your truck isnt pointing downhill. It will make fuel continuously come out of the hard line from the tank due to gravity. My hair smells like diesel

-Remove 2 fuel pump bolts, and remove mechanical fuel pump

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(I found this to be the best setup to get to the PITA back fuel pump bolt, 9/16 head)

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-Punt airtex fuel pump into nearest dumpster

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-Install Big Block Chevy fuel pump block off plate to cover fuel pump mounting location.

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-Disconnect hard fuel inlet line from fuel filter housing

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-Connect your brass fittings to the filter inlet, Mine looked like this

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-Hook up a piece of 3/8 ID Flexible fuel hose from the pressure side of the electric pump to your fuel filter inlet. (Use a good brand! Gates, Goodyear, My local IH dealer uses Dayco, so thats what I used! Made in America and I have had great luck with the company in the past!

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Hook up flexible tube from inlet side of Electric fuel pump to hard fuel line coming from tanks

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I bought I think 5 and a half feet of hose, did NOT want to have to make a trip back there, had some extra

-Turn your key to the run position and here your new pump In all its glory, Then depress the valve on the fuel filter housing until diesel fuel comes out.

-When you try and start the truck, it primed REALLY fast compared to the mechanical style pump!!

-Tighten anything lose, fix any leaks, etc, make sure rubber fuel hose is properly routed and not rubbing on anything, install protection if nessesary

I put conduit around all my wiring, makes the pump installation look stock and professional, and keeps it safe from chafing.

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You are now the proud owner/operator of a electric fuel pump, and No longer have to worry about diesel fuel being pumped strait into your crankcase upon diaphragm rupture!

Special Thanks to Everyone who helped with my questions while doing my install, figured I would put all the info together in one post so that in the future people can be directed here when they are confused.

Special thanks to FORDF250HDXLT for his explanation of the wiring, Which I am quoting here for future reference in case anyone has any confusion about relays

a relay is simply a switch,which in this case will switch ON when you turn the key forward.it's turned on for you when it receives power.
you'll use the FSS line (or any line you want,that is powered when you turn the key to run.)
the FSS is the top center most solenoid on the ip.

you want fused power directly from the battery to your pump (not a draw from the fss,or other trigger wire.)

very simple.
run a wire with a built in fuse holder (holding a 5 amp fuse for this pump)
to pin #30.
run your pumps + wire into pin #87
run a ground wire to pin #86 (negative terminal or chassis ground)
run the wire you spliced into the FSS line into pin #85
- pumps line simply goes to ground of course as you mentioned being already done.(negative terminal, frame,wherever is grounded good.)


now when you turn the key forward,the FSS power wire tells the "switch" (relay) to simply open/turn on,making pins 87 and 30 a direct connection,thus making the pump spin via a direct flow of electricity from the battery which is protected via a fuse and the whole works.

And Special Thanks to Genlightning for the deal on the pump! If you buy the carrier pump at NAPA it lists for $150!

*If anyone has anything to add feel free! Figure in the future people can search this thread and find all the info they need instead of having to search a dozen or so threads AND ask repetitive questions like I did!*

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

great job

i think to make for even easier referance of thise install it should be added to the tech articles.

thanks for the write up. Sad to say that this weekend i will be installing my new MECHANICAL lift pump.

 

[mattplumber]

Im collecting parts to do this as well, VERY nice writeup, great pics, and thanks for the nod to rhkcommander for explaining the wiring. I understand it now. The only thing i still am not sure about is what relay to use. Just need to know what to askfor when I go looking for it. I'm kinda a dummy when it comes to wiring

This is definitelyTECH WORTHY!

 

[OnDaRoad]

Ben .... you forgot a couple things

Ben,

Great write up - I will use it when I install mine ....

However - you forgot a couple things ....


Step One:

During the months of November thru March the installation
must facilitated in either Tucson, AZ (if done outdoors)
or a warm garage .....


Step Two:

You are missing a picture of the empty pile of beer cans
necessary to complete the installation .....


Jim

 

[IDIDieselJohn]

Nice write up!!

 

[redneckaggie]

Im collecting parts to do this as well, VERY nice writeup, great pics, and thanks for the nod to rhkcommander for explaining the wiring. I understand it now. The only thing i still am not sure about is what relay to use. Just need to know what to askfor when I go looking for it. I'm kinda a dummy when it comes to wiring

just use any standard 4 pin relay, I would get one that is widely availible just in case one blows away from home. either that or go to ebay and look for the ones with the wiring harness and buy 3 or 4 and keep extras in the glove box.

TECH WORTHY![SIZE="2"[/SIZE][/SIZE]

X2

 

[redneckaggie]

only thing I would do differently is run a direct battery hot wire for the 30 terminal. call me ocd but I dont splice into factory hot wires

 

[DesertBen44]

I just use the term splice for attaching.
On the FSS I took the nut off the threads, and stuck a U terminal on there then tightened the nut back down, wish i took a picture of it now.

The battery power came from a small solenoid looking thing next to the passenger battery, which I wish i took a picture of it too. Again just put a ring terminal on the side that is always hot!

Sorry for my careless use of the word splice haha I dont think i would *splice* Into a factory hot wire either!

I thought i took enough pics but now theres 2 or 3 things I wish i took a picture of as well

Thankyou for the good feedback guys!!

 

[DesertBen44]

Damn just realized I copied the wrong name and gave credit to the wrong person for the information on relays! Edited for correctness!

And the beer can pile surprisingly wasn't too large; I did this job over 2-3 days, spent a day thinking about where to mount the pump, Once ace closed had to wait till the next day to get more fittings, etc, so the beer cans were removed on a daily basis\ and not allowed to accumulate. I made sure to try and throw some ontop of the airtex fuel pump in the dumpster though

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

The only thing i still am not sure about is what relay to use. Just need to know what to askfor when I go looking for it.

30 amp 4 pin Single Pull Single Throw (SPST) relay.

great writeup Ben.

FYI;
to save a question or concern for others latter on.
you might buy a relay with instructions to wire pins 85 and 86 opposite of the provided instructions here.
that's because this low voltage side can go either way.it's not polarity specific.just make sure one gets ground constantly,and the other gets your low voltage "trigger wire" (in this case here the FSS line is used.) as long as one is grounded,and the other is supplied voltage (whenever you want the relay pins 30 and 87 connected so the pump runs either via a switched hot,or a manual toggle switch.)
the same most likely applies to pins 30 and 87 too.as long as one is the pump + and one is the constant + supply id image.because it's either "connected" or it's not.however i really don't think relay diagrams ever state these two the other way around anyway.i think they all show 30 as being the battery + supply and 87 being the draw (pump in this case.)
hope i don't confuse anyone more by rambling lol! they're pretty basic yet so dang slick devices.it's nice to understand what your actually doing rather than just being told what pins to use.this way you understand them and can use them freely in other projects.also helps you understand what your doing with the famous "headlight relay mod" and perhaps finally help you feel confident in tackling that one next.

 

[WilltheThrill]

I know this truck, it was for sale.....did you just buy it in the last few months or were you the guy selling it?

 

[DesertBen44]

I bought it from a guy on the other side of Tucson probably.. 4 months ago? I dont remember exactly, this is probably it though. I got so frustrated with the return line setup i actually was getting ready to sell it, had a couple people come look at it, pretty much offered me what I was asking but i couldnt give it up. Haven't seen a 4x4 diesel 5 speed 3/4 ton in this area since (that isnt a dodge)

 

[jbuck]

Great article, gives us all the confidence to tackle this job without worry. Thanks you very much. Will be installing very soon on both my 6.9 and 7.3.

 

[jbuck]

After studying the install i only have one question. The fuel line that comes into the mechanical pump from the tank is pulled off the pump and routed to the inlet side of the electric pump. Is the line long enough to reach or are you splicing into it to extend it?