Some notes on the Carrier/Facet/Duralift pump install........
I was going to post these as a response to the tech article DesertBen44 wrote up, but it's locked.....
I did this job yesterday and have a few notes that some may find useful:
1. Temporarily removing (or, at minimum, relocating) the vacuum pump makes this job a lot easier. You can get at the mechanical pump very easily from the top if the vacuum pump is out of the way.
2. For the fuel pump block-off plate, use the Spectre 42473 unit pictured in the tech article. Others have had issues with the plate getting caught up on a machined lip that runs around the perimeter of the mounting point. This is because the plates from other companies are MUCH larger. I ordered both the Spectre and the Mr. Gasket version, and the Mr. Gasket was nearly 1/8" wider and taller. The Spectre also comes with the mounting hardware and gasket, so win-win.
3. Like any other job involving a gasket, the success of a leak-free install comes from having a clean surface. A razor blade comes in handy to get the old gasket material off. Just make sure to stuff a rag in the opening so you don't get crud into the oil, though I'll probably do an oil change in a bit just for good measure.
4. For the wiring, I used Painless Wiring fuel pump wiring kit, PN 30131. PN 50102 would also work. The difference between the two is that the 30131 kit comes with the 'weatherproof' wiring terminals whereas the 50102 comes with the basic stuff. If I were to do it again, I'd use the 50102 since I couldn't get a good crimp on the weatherproof connectors and ended up using some basic terminals I had plus a bit of heatshrink. Yes, there are other ways to wire this that are cheaper, but this gets you everything you need with good quality components and the correct gauge wiring. On the downside, I was disappointed to find that, even though the Painless packaging claims the kit is 'Made in the USA', the HELLA relay in the kit clearly states 'Made in China'.
5. For the 'key on' signal for the pump, instead of wiring to the FSS (made me a bit nervous, plus the beefy harness looked a bit intimidating to get into), I used a fuse tap and wired into a circuit on the fuse panel that does the same thing. I cannot remember which fuse it was specifically, but it's a 15A fuse that I've tapped off before to power my LED gauges. This fuse tap works very well and gives you a provision for a fuse on the new circuitry:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...C-fuse-tap/_/N-255s?itemIdentifier=32414_0_0_ . For access into the cab, I've been using the large rubber plug on the driver's side of the firewall where the computer would sit if our trucks were EFI. It's very easy to access by removing the driver's side kick panel. The plug can be removed to make drilling easier, plus it basically makes its own grommet.
6. I mounted the pump on the bracket that runs from the radiator support to the passenger battery tray. Instead of fabricating a mount, I drilled holes in the bracket and mounted the pump directly to it. I had to remove the tray to get access for my drill (went in from the back), but it was an easy job. Pros to this location: easy install (wiring and plumbing are all very close), safe location for the pump, easy to inspect the pump and bowl (as opposed to under the truck). Cons to this location: access to the bowl is tight, removal of the pump will require removal of the battery tray, removal of the radiator shroud will require removal of the pump since the inlet barb is in the way.
Hope this helps,
Mike
