How to know if engine is hydro locked?

Figor

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Been sitting for a few months and I tried to start it. It made a slight revolution and stopped. I thought batteries were dead so I put the trickle charger on it overnight. Batteries are good now but still won’t turn over. How would I check for hydro lock? I’m guessing pull the injectors and try turning it over? Hate to do that if there’s an easier way.
 

Jake_IN

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I dealt with this issue a little less than a year ago. In my case, i hopped in the truck and turned the key. It turned over enough that it actually fired on one or two cylinders before slamming to a stop so fast that it shook the truck. I pretty much new instantly that things were bad so i made sure to not try and turn it over with the starter again. Opened the hood and there was still some water on the air cleaner lid (heart was sinking). Pulled the air cleaner off and my intake still had some water in it (heart was sank). Pulled the glowplugs and tried to bar the engine over. I could turn the engine about 300 degrees each way before i would hit something hard. It was also spraying water out of the glowplug holes when i was doing this.

So that sent me down the path of a full rebuild. Thread link here including pictures of my new offset connecting rod!
 

Figor

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Thanks guys. I’ll try taking the glow plugs out. I’ve been trying to avoid doing that out of fear that they will probably be swollen. Looks like they will have to come out either way.

I believe it is locked because the truck shakes pretty bad when I hit the e starter so I suspect the starter is good. The radiator is down about an inch on coolant.
Is rebuild the only solution? Could it just be a head gasket needing replacement?
 

gnathv

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You won’t know until you try to turn it over by hand with glow plugs out. If it will turn over you may be able to repair without rebuild. If it won’t turn over you’re in for a tear down and new parts if block is good.
 

IDIBRONCO

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You won’t know until you try to turn it over by hand with glow plugs out. If it will turn over you may be able to repair without rebuild. If it won’t turn over you’re in for a tear down and new parts if block is good.
To add a little bit to this, it also depends on what liquid comes out. If it's rain water, then you may be just fine. If it's antifreeze, then you will have to dig deeper and find out how it got into that cylinder(s).
 

Figor

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I don’t think it will be rain water. It’s been covered.
Unfortunately it’s going to be a while until I can get to it. I only tried to fire it up because I needed to use the crane on the truck and I had to go a different route for that task.

I’ve been working 12 hour days seven days a week so it’s going to be a while before I can get to it. Unfortunately if it does need rebuilt I’ll probably just end up putting a straight six in it that I have. Hate to do that but just don’t have the time to be rebuilding engines. I’ve done it once and I’m kind of slow at it. It’s also become a pain getting parts these days. Can’t just go to the local parts dealer because he isn’t there anymore. All the big dealers have to order it and wait. Sometimes they send the wrong stuff. Amazon’s two day shipping has turned into two week shipping around here. At least that’s what I’m experiencing right now trying to get a Goldwing on the road with the little spare time I have. I’ll keep an update with what I find when I get a chance. Thanks for the help guys.
 

gnathv

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If there is water in the cylinders you need to get it out before your block in unusable.
 

Figor

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I just wanted to add an update here.
IDIBRONCO was spot on. It was rainwater.
I was able to get at it today. I drained the oil. No water there that I could see. I unhooked the batteries. Blew off the area around the glow plugs and broke them all free. The I blew everything off again. A lot of those insulators crumbled. I had to get all that out of there. I was able to pull 7 of the 8. The 2nd one from the front on the passenger side that is buried under that cluster of injector lines wouldn’t come out. I reckon it may be swollen. Tbh I could get much of a grip on it due to all the obstructions.
I figured I’d go ahead and bar then engine over and see if it will go passed the cylinder that still has the glow plug in it.
I was under the truck while barring so I’m not sure which cylinders had water in them but it sure was squirting out of some of them. I’m not sure I got all the way around to the one with the glow plug. It got dark and I got tired of fighting mosquitoes, so I came in for a break. I put the tools away and sprayed wd-40 in the holes. So I’ll do some more barring tomorrow before I go to work and see what I have. I’ll need to pick up some oil too and glow plugs. What’s the go to glow plug now? Seems like half the time it’s Beru and the other half it’s Motorcraft.
Hopefully she didn’t bend a rod or something. We will see.
 

IDIBRONCO

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I drained the oil. No water there that I could see.
That's a good sign.
A lot of those insulators crumbled.
That wasn't too unusual 20 years ago when I was still working on these for a living.
It got dark and I got tired of fighting mosquitoes, so I came in for a break.
Can't blame you there.
I put the tools away and sprayed wd-40 in the holes.
Good move. At this point, I don't think that you could get too much in the cylinders. After the barring, you may want to spin the engine over with the starter a few times. It should help to get any remaining WD-40 out of the cylinders. The pistons will be moving faster by doing this than by hand so it should shoot it out better.
 

Figor

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I thought about turning over with the starter but I was worried about that cylinder I couldn’t get the glow plug out of. I’m not sure if it’s clear yet but once I’m sure I’ll go ahead and spin it with the starter.

lol. I had no idea beru and motorcraft were the same. Should I put some heat shrink over the connectors? Probably gets too hot for that. Just leave them as is?
 

franklin2

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If you are talking about the plastic around the glowplug connectors, you can plug them in without it, but you will lose some tension on the connection. I did this and found after a month or so, my glowplug controller would short cycle. I found out if I unplugged and plugged back in the glowplug connectors, it was fine again for a few weeks and then it would do it again.

I did find that a aftermarket bullet crimp connector would fit over the end of the glowplug, and changed them all out.

Hopefully you did not bend one of the connecting rods with the water in it. But if you did, it sounds like this truck is just a tool to use for the lift. You can keep running it on 7 cylinders and it will not hurt it. It may have a little skip to it, but it will still move down the road and be useful as a crane.
 

Figor

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Ok thanks. Yeh I just use the crane mostly. Truck hardly sees any serious mileage.
I picked up some motorcraft glow plugs today. They are zd9-1x. They didn’t have any references to the zd9-iirc. They look the same. These were made in Germany. The ones I pulled out were made in Italy. Doubt that it matters. Has anyone else used the 1x version?
 

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