how to auto-rx : from the source

sassyrel

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I have absoloutely no doubt that kreen will work, and VERY fast as well.... that is the problem with any solvent based flush, They ALL run the risk of knocking big chunks of hard carbon or sludge loose on one fell swoop that can scratch bearings to the major damage point and block sensitive oil passages to the point of oil starvation causing you to trash your engine. I've personally had to tear into a small block cheby due to a blocked lifter from a solvent flush, and them werent cheap stock lifters in that thing. Lesson learned. I'll never make that mistake again.

Sorry about the jammed up PM box... Just got back from the doc, I'll try to get that cleaned up later tonight
FROM THE DOC??? gotta eat more apples!!:D:D:D
 

84TD

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I have auto rx in mine now, after the rinse I think I'll run some kreen through if I can find some.
Why not? Should be like new inside after that.
 

CDX825

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The only place you can get Kreen is directly from kano labs for about $15 a quart. I plan on running some in my F150 to clean it out. Guys swear by the stuff and if its anything like kroil its good stuff!
 

gdhillon

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So it is or isnt a good idea to run this autorx stuff? From what i understand it can cause big pieces of carbon to loosen and scratch the internals all to hell...so is it recommended to use less of it then? And is it recommended to run dino 15w40 or can it be synthetic 5w40?
 

dgr

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Where did you hear this? I haven't met anyone that said it broke loose large chunks and plugged an oil galley or the pump pickup or anything like that.

From the response from auto-rx, cleaning is best if using dino oil. They didn't say you can't use synthetic. I followed their instructions. They have an interest in me getting the best results out of their product after all.
 

gdhillon

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I have absoloutely no doubt that kreen will work, and VERY fast as well.... that is the problem with any solvent based flush, They ALL run the risk of knocking big chunks of hard carbon or sludge loose on one fell swoop that can scratch bearings to the major damage point and block sensitive oil passages to the point of oil starvation causing you to trash your engine. I've personally had to tear into a small block cheby due to a blocked lifter from a solvent flush, and them werent cheap stock lifters in that thing. Lesson learned. I'll never make that mistake again.

Sorry about the jammed up PM box... Just got back from the doc, I'll try to get that cleaned up later tonight


Maybe i misinterpreted this?
 

dgr

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Good you asked. Auto-RX seems to be one of the few additives where it is hard to find a detractor. There are a lot of people that run solvent based cleaners and a lot of those cleaners on the shelf at the auto parts store. There are also a lot of reports of problems with solvent based cleaners doing their job too well and too quickly. I don't know of anything comparable to auto-rx.
 

HS108

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I have Auto-RX in mine now with 1k miles to go, when the 3k miles is up I will have just over 200k on her.

I really didnt have any issues with my truck that I noticed, before I put the RX in, so I cant really be sure if it makes anything better or worse, just got caught up in the hype and ordered it lol
 

IDIDieselJohn

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Interesting thread.

Heres an interesting for you experts.


My '85 E350 6.9 cargo van, high miles yes, but I had the heads off for head gaskets last year, cylinders looked nice, didn't look new that's for sure, but pretty good for over 400k miles.


Heres the kicker to this van. It burns about a quart of oil every 150-200 miles.

Stupid me, didn't change the valve seals when I had the heads off, so I taught it was burning all that oil because of that, but bad valve seals would cause blue smoke on cold start right?

Cold start, all it does is shoot a small puff of black smoke. That's it. No smoke at all otherwise. Some black smoke under heavy accel.



But every now and then, and this is when my oil goes down really quickly, is just driving along, all of a sudden, it'll start POURING blue smoke out the tailpipe, it'll stink up the inside of the van with the smell of burnt oil, it will even coat the inside of the tailpipe with oil.... and when this happens, it'll smoke non stop for either 5 min, or 20-25min. Also, looks like it's consistent with 1 cylinder, it usually does this when driving on the highway, so rpm's are very high, makes it abit harder to tell, but it puffs out really quickly, witch makes it look like 1cyl is causing it.

Sometimes it happens just before getting on the highway from my house, 2 miles, it'll start doing it, then I let off the gas for a red light, and the engine deaccels, and stops doing it.




Any ideas? Does it sound like a broken ring? Or maybe a sticky ring?? I find it really weird it does this like it does.


The engine has no blow by to speak of either!

Also tryed 3 different CDR's, the 3rd one being a brand new one, and made 0 difference in oil consumption.
 

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