how to auto-rx : from the source

[dgr]

I've been reading again and again on here how to "properly"run auto-rx in our engines. The mantra, run, rinse, run or you aren't doing UT "right" didn't seem to jive with my reading of the instructions so I emailed them. Here is the exchange below. It's your money, do what you want with it.

Hi David,

You certainly can add the 2 bottles of Auto-Rx to the existing oil with only 300 miles on it. Cleaning is best if this oil has a mineral oil base, as opposed to a full synthetic PAO or ester base. Yes, 24 fluid ounces would be fine.

Yes, then just run for 3000 miles. Then all you have to do is run a rinse phase for 3000 miles. You do not need to run a second rinse phase. A rinse phase is just an oil change interval for 3000 miles with no new Auto-Rx added.

After one rinse phase, you may start a second application if needed. It is alway clean, rinse , clean, rinse. NBot two cleans or rinses consecutively. Thanks for pointing out the instruction confusion. I will contact the Auto-Rx administration.

Rich

________________________

I am planning on ordering Auto-RX to treat my ford 6.9L diesel. I am a little confused by the instructions. Can you clarify them for me please?

I understand that I need approximately 22 oz of Auto-RX for my 11 quart capacity. I assume 24 ounces is close enough.

Here are my questions: Can I add it to an oil change that has been done within the last 300 miles? I understand the first two steps. From the way I am reading it, I am doing ONE treatment, two rinses and I am done. However, others are telling me that I am supposed to run a treatment, a rinse and then another treatment. Can you clarify this?

Thank you for your time

STEP 1 Add Auto-Rx® to a fresh fill of motor oil with a new filter at a rate of 2 fluid ounces per quart of sump capacity by dipstick measurement. Be careful not to overfill the crankcase.. Each bottle of Auto-Rx® contains 12 fluid ounces. STEP 2 Drive the vehicle as you normally would for a total of 3,000 miles. STEP 3 Drain the Auto-Rx®-fortified oil and refill, and install a new filter. STEP 4 Drive 3,000 miles on this oil change interval and repeat step 3. STEP 5 Congratulations! You have completed the recommended procedure.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Directions also state that if engine has over 100k on it, 2 treatments is not required but recommended.

 

[RLDSL]

OK, put the auto RX in 2 oz per qt of oil ( if your dipstick is showing oil more than 1/4 way up the hash marks when cold find a waty to drain some out, i.e. loosen your filter or something or you will end up burning off excess , not good at 1/4 the rx will put you up to 1/2 wich will be full when hot), drive the 3000 miles. Drain it and change filter ( which will be REAL nasty ) REfill with fresh oil and run 3000 miles dump oil and change filter add 2 more jugs of Auto Rx and refill with oil( remember never more than 1/2 way on stick when cold) runn another 3000 miles, dump again, change filter and refil with oil and after another 3000 mile rinse cycle do another change and you are done. What happens is the stuff binds to a lot of crud while in there and during teh rinse cycle it finishes slowly releasing yuk through to the filter. By the end of teh second cycle your engine will be spotless inside ( there have been a few insane sludge pits that have actually neded more than 2 , but those have basically been the ' my daddy bought this thing new and never changed teh oil once in 25 years" type engines that for some strange reason were still running

 

[TangTonic]

Is this stuff getting good results? I am coming up on an oil change and tempted to try it out.

 

[dgr]

Ask me in 2000 miles. RLDSL knows his way around oil and reports positive results. Doesn't seem like it could hurt. However, I questioned the need for two treatments which is why I contacted the company. I can't imagine that 100 hours of the engine running with it in there wouldn't do something if it is going to do anything for it.

 

[RLDSL]

I have brought a number of old diesels back from near death including revinving from the boneyard with that stuff. Whan I still had my shop open it got to the point for a number of issues, major seal leaks that would require expensive dissasembly, and low compression problems, I would offer customers the RX treatment first and 8-9 times out of ten, I would shoot myself in the foot with that stuff as it would take care of the problem( but I had a lot of VERY happy customers ) when it didn't work, at least everything would be spotless clean inside to work on Its not going to fix mechanical problems, but old diesels are EXTREMELY prone to sticky rings from carbon and varnish that can cause hard starting poor power and excess blowby ( Ive had them as bad as eating a qt every 15 miles get cured and going from 123 psi compression to over 400 ) so yes, the stuff works, but if your rings are shot, or cyllinders tapered out or out of round, then there isnt a whole lot you can do but rebuild it, but at least it will be nice and clean in there Nice thing the rings are REAL god in theae things, but valve stems and guides are a major problem area and sometimes you just cant help but have to pull the heads for some service

 

[wmoguy]

I'd echo RLDSL. I used it roughly a year ago in my IDIT. It made a large difference in oil pressure, and at the time cleared up my blowby. I was about to give her another dose of it as my blowby problem got bad again, but turns out non ******* injectors solved that problem.

BTW, I have ZERO oil leaks now, as well as have ZERO oil use now.

That stuff is some really werid looking stuff when its' cold. I almost didn't put it in my engine because it was such a weird thick substance. If the bottle is really cold, let it sit in your sink in a bath of hot water for 30 minutes.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I put it in my 99 PSD at 160.000 miles, now have 180,000, it's due for an oil change 5000 miles on it, just going to change the filter, the oil still looks nice and clean, oil I use is Delo400 LE. Gonna send in a sample to Blackstone Lab for analysis. I'll vouch for Auto-RX.

 

[FordGuy100]

I only used one treatment, and thats all mine needed (low mileage engine that was maintained by by grandfather). Its the higher mileage engines with sludge in all the dark corners that might need two cycles.

I went from a quart every 750ish mles to a quart every 1500-2000 miles, less blow by. It worked so well on mine (an engine that didnt need it) that I would run it in any IDI that I will own.

 

[sassyrel]

( Ive had them as bad as eating a qt every 15 miles get cured and going from 123 psi compression to over 400 ) [/QUOTE] i gots one of them!! and your pm box,,is F U L L!!

 

[ocnorb]

I gotta play devil's advocate here a little. After a ton of research I decided to try Kreen instead of the Auto Rx in my '57. (Has an '86 6.9L in it.)

Its made by the same folks that make Kroil and its supposed to work as well as AutoRx or better. We shall see. Hard call for me- going against anything RLDSL has to say as I highly respect his input and opinion on the subject.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I gotta play devil's advocate here a little. After a ton of research I decided to try Kreen instead of the Auto Rx in my '57. (Has an '86 6.9L in it.)

Its made by the same folks that make Kroil and its supposed to work as well as AutoRx or better. We shall see. Hard call for me- going against anything RLDSL has to say as I highly respect his input and opinion on the subject.

I haven't heard of this oil additive. Just curious, what are the main ingredients to this additive?

 

[ocnorb]

I haven't heard of this oil additive. Just curious, what are the main ingredients to this additive?

http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html

From MSDS:http://www.kanolabs.com/msds/kreen_liquid.pdf
Chemical Name CAS# %
Severely Hydrotreated Petroleum Distillates 64742-52-5 15-25
Aliphatic Petroleum Distillates 64742-95-6/64742-88-7 15-25
Aliphatic Alcohols 78-92-2/123-42-2 15-25
Glycol Ether 111-76-2 5-15
Aliphatic Ketone 78-93-3 5-15
Proprietary Ingredients Proprietary 5-15

 

[sassyrel]

http://www.kanolabs.com/engCle.html

From MSDS:http://www.kanolabs.com/msds/kreen_liquid.pdf
Chemical Name CAS# %
Severely Hydrotreated Petroleum Distillates 64742-52-5 15-25
Aliphatic Petroleum Distillates 64742-95-6/64742-88-7 15-25
Aliphatic Alcohols 78-92-2/123-42-2 15-25
Glycol Ether 111-76-2 5-15
Aliphatic Ketone 78-93-3 5-15
Proprietary Ingredients Proprietary 5-15

if that stuff,,is half as good,,as kroil..it has to be good!!! ive used kroil,,for many years,,and it has got me out of some tight seeetiatuuuns!!!!!!!!!!

 

[RLDSL]

I have absoloutely no doubt that kreen will work, and VERY fast as well.... that is the problem with any solvent based flush, They ALL run the risk of knocking big chunks of hard carbon or sludge loose on one fell swoop that can scratch bearings to the major damage point and block sensitive oil passages to the point of oil starvation causing you to trash your engine. I've personally had to tear into a small block cheby due to a blocked lifter from a solvent flush, and them werent cheap stock lifters in that thing. Lesson learned. I'll never make that mistake again.

Sorry about the jammed up PM box... Just got back from the doc, I'll try to get that cleaned up later tonight