as for the shackle bushings, just get new shackles. I just got a set with all new bolts for 45 bucks. do NOT get dorman shackles. they suck.
How high did you lift your Crew Cab?
- Thread starter DaytonaBill
- Start date
Ha ha!
I just came to that very same conclusion when I was thinking about just getting new shackles as a way to go around that problem...
I'm still looking around, got plenty of time as long as the economy doesn't crash or Civil War II doesn't start in our back yard...
Gotta git 'er done soon though, if I wait too long, I won't be able to get to my bug out location off road. This is why I was wondering about a lift kit... I still (I know, I know, can't make up my mind...) wonder about getting a shackle reversal kit with X code SD springs (4.5") and two 9.5" blocks with U-bolt tabs to lock the new blocks in place. Just today I was scoping out the prices of dropped Pittman arms with extended track bar plates... Haven't got to looking at the prices of the U-bolts that I will need...
I think I've got lift on the brain...
On another note, what do you guys think about these jack stands? I definitely will cross brace them both ways if I go that route...
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fordf350man
Full Access Member
9.5" blocks 
Find lift springs instead. Blocks that tall are not a good idea.
Find lift springs instead. Blocks that tall are not a good idea.Yeah, holy axle wrap! No blocks, factory sized blocks are as tall as you should run and even those fairly short blocks promote axle wrap. If you are intending this to be a bug out vehicle for hurricanes, floods, general societal breakdown and mayhem... You don't want to use cheap parts and inferior methods that result in things breaking. It's inconvenient to break a ujoint, slip a block, snap a spring, etc. when recreational off roading or just driving to where you need to be... It could be lethal when trying to get yourself and your family out of harms way.
Also, lockers front and rear before lift. You would be amazed what a stock height vehicle with decent tires and lockers can go through, while lifted trucks with big aggressive tires and one leggers get stuck.
Also, lockers front and rear before lift. You would be amazed what a stock height vehicle with decent tires and lockers can go through, while lifted trucks with big aggressive tires and one leggers get stuck.
But, but, but, those are expensive!!!
And I'd have to pay someone BIG bucks to install them... Um, maybe not, I could do it if I went and bought the tools to do it... Like a fixture to hold the housing still and upright... Along with a magnetic dial indicator and some dykem blue...
But, you're right though... True all wheel drive beats '4' wheel drive...
What lockers or limited slips would you suggest?
My limited slips needs new clutches...
And I'd have to pay someone BIG bucks to install them... Um, maybe not, I could do it if I went and bought the tools to do it... Like a fixture to hold the housing still and upright... Along with a magnetic dial indicator and some dykem blue...
But, you're right though... True all wheel drive beats '4' wheel drive...
What lockers or limited slips would you suggest?
My limited slips needs new clutches...
tbrumm
Full Access Member
X2 on this! I never knew how much difference lockers made until I installed an Eaton Elocker in my 1997 Ranger. With a 4" lift, good tires and the Elocker in the rear axle, that Ranger would get into a lot of places, and more importantly, back out again. I personally think a "selectable" locker (like the Elocker or ARB airlocker or OxLocker) is the way to go. Fully open diff when on the street and fully locked when you want it to be. The Elocker is the only one I have personal experience with, and it worked very well. I would love to buy one for my F350, but I just don't take it off road enough to justify the expense. If you want to read up about installing lockers and working on diffs, purchase Jim Allen's (member Powersmoke on this forum) book Differentials - Identification, Restoration and Repair. It is chock full of knowledge!
A48WillyzGuy
Registered User
I've never experienced the fancy selectable lockers, but my choice would be Detroit Lockers front and rear without hesitation. They were absolutely the single best modification done to my Jeep which holds quite a hefty list of mods.
Where did you get them from, if I may ask?
crashnzuk
Full Access Member
I put a Spartan in the dana 60 front in my Dodge. Under $400 at Summit Racing and you put it in yourself without removing or resetting the carrier. I don't believe they make any to fit limited slip carriers, but I think you can get a lock-right that will.
Travis..
Travis..
leojr
Full Access Member
Not sure where you have ended up on the lift decision issue yet. I only want as much lift as needed to clear the tires I want. And any lift must give better ride too. I am told stock front height is 19.5" shock length. Correction of confirmation on that is welcomed. As my stock height front end clears the 37" tires I want to run my lift needs are minimal. I already have B code SD springs in the rear with F350 4x4 4" blocks, and it rides much better. I have the shortest reverse shackle PMF makes on order and will order U code SD springs soon too. This should give me only 2" of front lift and also ride much better.
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sjwelds
Full Access Member
These stands are Freaking Awesome!!! We have a set in our shop, use the poo out of them all the time. We've set semi trucks, trailers, and all kinds of big stuff on them with no worries at all. They are insanely stout.
My top choice would be Detroit rear and TrueTrack front. On a budget lunchbox lockets work fine, though will wear out sooner and be more noisy/clunky. Any locker up front on the street such as snow/ice requires careful driving, which is why a LSD such as the TrueTrack would be preferable as they work smoother and are not just locked or unlocked.
