IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Once you get into it, you'll find that it's really not all the difficult. It's just intimidating at first because it's so big and heavy. It's also a diesel and that throws some people off too.
How bad is the HG job on a 7.3 IDI?
- Thread starter steelholder
- Start date
steelholder
Full Access Member
I'm trying to remove the fan clutch but it's giving me hell. I'm finding both opinions on which direction I should be pulling to remove. Do I pull my wrench in the direction of the drivers side or passenger side when facing the truck to loosen the nut?
It’s reverse thread so clockwise (driver side) to loosen and anti-clockwise (passenger side) to tighten.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Thanks. Is there a chance I could do this whole thing with the fan on? I already removed the radiator and it looks like there might be enough space to pull
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I doubt it. It's a tight fit without the fan on. I don't like to, but some people spin them sideways to about a 45* angle to the direction the truck faces. That might give you enough room with the fan on. I've always taken the fan off.
Black dawg
Registered User
plan on pulling the fan.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Almost ready to pull the engine but rain in my area has held me up. I have a few things that are still connecting the engine and was hoping for clarification and to not yank anything off that may be attached while pulling.
Is this the only connection to the PS that needs to unbolt(see below)? I've done everything in the front, wire harness, radiator etc, after this I'm assuming the only things left are the motor mounts, the exhaust and the trans right? Also, is this good enough support and the right area to hold up the trans after it's detached from engine?
***See post 71 for pics
Is this the only connection to the PS that needs to unbolt(see below)? I've done everything in the front, wire harness, radiator etc, after this I'm assuming the only things left are the motor mounts, the exhaust and the trans right? Also, is this good enough support and the right area to hold up the trans after it's detached from engine?
***See post 71 for pics
Last edited:
steelholder
Full Access Member
Please see above
mblaney
Full Access Member
I did the HG's on my truck last summer. Big job but very rewarding. A list of comments to confirm / reiterate what may have already been stated.
1. Do head studs. To save money I used Xotic performance studs (way less $ than ARP). Very happy with them.
2. Make sure you rebuild the oil cooler. https://classicdieseldesigns.com/pr...A6Y-WQQJjK2pTH43q7dZgh_zc_NrgyNYZRRKyA4Zg2yDV
3. For head surfaces, I used 3M Roloc discs to remove the old HG residue. This disc is aggressive on the residue but won't be too h_ard on the cast surfaces. (site does not like 'hard' followed by 'on' for some reason)
4. If you need a good gasket stripper search for Loctite Chisel SF 790 spray; this is the good stuff, like paint stripper in the old days.
5. Do the head cooling mod - basically knock out the freeze plugs https://www.oilburners.net/threads/7-3-cooling-mod.81986/
6. Absolutely change the oil pan and rear / front main seals.
7. Consider new engine mounts; probably due
8.The only connection I missed when pulling the engine was the fuel return line... Out of sight out of mind...
1. Do head studs. To save money I used Xotic performance studs (way less $ than ARP). Very happy with them.
2. Make sure you rebuild the oil cooler. https://classicdieseldesigns.com/pr...A6Y-WQQJjK2pTH43q7dZgh_zc_NrgyNYZRRKyA4Zg2yDV
3. For head surfaces, I used 3M Roloc discs to remove the old HG residue. This disc is aggressive on the residue but won't be too h_ard on the cast surfaces. (site does not like 'hard' followed by 'on' for some reason)
4. If you need a good gasket stripper search for Loctite Chisel SF 790 spray; this is the good stuff, like paint stripper in the old days.
5. Do the head cooling mod - basically knock out the freeze plugs https://www.oilburners.net/threads/7-3-cooling-mod.81986/
6. Absolutely change the oil pan and rear / front main seals.
7. Consider new engine mounts; probably due
8.The only connection I missed when pulling the engine was the fuel return line... Out of sight out of mind...
Last edited:
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Still no pictures.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Hope these work -
( I know fuel lines need shortening between caps)
steelholder
Full Access Member
Thanks, do you remember what 3m grit was used? I heard that using the same mounts is better than any after market out there, what did you use? Did you change out the oil pan or just the give it new RTV? Also, did you remove your hood when you pulled the engine? Thanks for your tips.
Last edited:
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes remove the hood. Why are you disconnecting the power steering line(s)? I just pull the whole bracket off of the engine and wire it out of the way. Your AI search on engine pulling mentioned that in the section talking about the support systems in step #4. It did say to use a bungee cord to the frame, but it's basically the same thing. I like to tie it up higher than the frame. If it's against the frame, it's down low and out of sight. That means that it's easier to set the engine down on top of it when you're putting the engine back in.
I also don't know about the bottle jack against the lip of the transmission pan. That seems like a lot of weight on a small area. It looks like there's a good chance of damage. I always use a transmission jack or a floor jack if you don't have a transmission jack. I'll put at block of wood on top of the jack and put that against the pan. That way the weight is spread out over a MUCH larger area. I also don't mean one of those cheap little floor jacks with a head that's about 1.5" across. Use a floor jack with a head that's 5" or 6" across. That will support the wood block better. There will probably be some wiggling as you're putting the engine back in. A small surface area holding up the transmission will be a lot less stable than a larger one.
I also don't know about the bottle jack against the lip of the transmission pan. That seems like a lot of weight on a small area. It looks like there's a good chance of damage. I always use a transmission jack or a floor jack if you don't have a transmission jack. I'll put at block of wood on top of the jack and put that against the pan. That way the weight is spread out over a MUCH larger area. I also don't mean one of those cheap little floor jacks with a head that's about 1.5" across. Use a floor jack with a head that's 5" or 6" across. That will support the wood block better. There will probably be some wiggling as you're putting the engine back in. A small surface area holding up the transmission will be a lot less stable than a larger one.
steelholder
Full Access Member
I will unbolt the PS and tie it to the side. Good point on the bottle jack. I'll put a piece of wood in between.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Could you guys elaborate a bit on this step here -
Transmission Bolts: * Automatic: Remove the inspection cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (rotate the engine by hand to reach all of them)
Transmission Bolts: * Automatic: Remove the inspection cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (rotate the engine by hand to reach all of them)
Similar threads
