steelholder
Full Access Member
Going back to the PS, is there a way to remove it without having to pull the pulley? First time doing it and def didn't want to get a kit for that
How bad is the HG job on a 7.3 IDI?
- Thread starter steelholder
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Sure there is. Unbolt the entire bracket. It's just 2 or 3 bolts.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Other than mentioning that you might have to have the exhaust loose in order to remove the inspection cover, I don't know how much more clearly these instructions can get. I don't know about the exhaust for sure. I remember that some trucks didn't have the clearance to remove the cover with the exhaust bolted to the manifolds tightly.
mblaney
Full Access Member
I used the rolox white (2 inch, 120 grit).
New oil pan and mounts from Rockauto; my pan appeared pretty rusty so I changed it out.
New oil pan and mounts from Rockauto; my pan appeared pretty rusty so I changed it out.
steelholder
Full Access Member
They're loud and clear. I just didn't know some very basic things like the transmission bolts at the flex plate etc
I picked up a Haynes manual at the local part store (flagship Oreilly in my area). It isn’t perfect but can help fill in procedural and knowledge gaps when needed. For like $25 it’s been helpful but ymmv.
This one doesn’t include diesel engine specific info but was helpful when doing a water pump recently (removing fan clutch and power steering etc).
The info that is most important to me are the torque specs listed. Torque specs still vary depending on source but it’s nice to at least have one reference point but taken with a grain of salt
This one doesn’t include diesel engine specific info but was helpful when doing a water pump recently (removing fan clutch and power steering etc).
The info that is most important to me are the torque specs listed. Torque specs still vary depending on source but it’s nice to at least have one reference point but taken with a grain of salt
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
There aren't any transmission bolts at the flex plate. There's torque convertor nuts, but the only bolts there go into the crankshaft and can't be removed until the convertor and flex plate are separated by several inches.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Ahh haha man I messed up a lot of sh*t with this. I appreciate your help and everyone else who has helped guide me up till this point. This is the biggest job I will be doing yet. Let me make a list..
1) I didn't remove the flex plate and was wondering why the engine stand plate was making weird contact with the flex plate (might be toast now) I guess moving that out of the way and remounting wont too be bad now.
2) I forgot to detach the exhaust bolts from the passenger side and kept wondering wth was keeping the engine from moving forward when it was on the hoist.
3) I had left the starter attached (without bolts) so it wouldn't get puddled on with the rain from yesterday and starting lifting the engine with that attached..yeah no bueno there.
4) The strap I used to lift the engine was way too long at first and this caused really bad contact between the engine and trans cooler, which is positively gone now..oh well. I learned a lot so far..
Hope there is no permanent damage with my dumb mistakes.
I seem to have a healthy HG leak on both sides.
Propbably have a couple in the front as well
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steelholder
Full Access Member
Alright guys, I got the head out and took some pics, hoping you guys could opine, nothing looked like a smoking gun that would cause a HG leak, my eyes aren't experienced though.
Would this straight edge be suitable to check for warpage? I have feeler gauges, what's the tolerance here? How do the valves look to you guys? Anything stand out? Please see pics link below, I would like to attach them directly to this thread but it always says the file size is too big.
Please let me know if you guys cannot see these pics.
Would this straight edge be suitable to check for warpage? I have feeler gauges, what's the tolerance here? How do the valves look to you guys? Anything stand out? Please see pics link below, I would like to attach them directly to this thread but it always says the file size is too big.
Please let me know if you guys cannot see these pics.
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Nothing looks odd to me, but it can be hard to tell in pictures.
Looking closer, it does look like there's some nastiness in your cooling system so this would be a good time to flush it out. After the engine's back in and running again.
Looking closer, it does look like there's some nastiness in your cooling system so this would be a good time to flush it out. After the engine's back in and running again.
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steelholder
Full Access Member
Will do, any advice one checking for warpage?
That straight edge will not be sufficient, it is not machined.
You'll need something like this.
Easiest way to check for flatness is use a machinists straight edge and try to slide a 0.003" feeler blade in. No blade going in = good.
As for the previous leakage, did it have the stamped metal gaskets? If it did, I blame them. They aren't that good at sealing, thus why the new gaskets are graphite.
Edit,
Saw your photos. Those are definitely stamped gaskets. Clean er up and put er back together im sure she'll be fine.
You'll need something like this.
Easiest way to check for flatness is use a machinists straight edge and try to slide a 0.003" feeler blade in. No blade going in = good.
As for the previous leakage, did it have the stamped metal gaskets? If it did, I blame them. They aren't that good at sealing, thus why the new gaskets are graphite.
Edit,
Saw your photos. Those are definitely stamped gaskets. Clean er up and put er back together im sure she'll be fine.
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steelholder
Full Access Member
Thanks, the straight edge I posted says it's "precision milled" and made for checking straightness on cylinder heads. What's the difference?
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The one at home depot doesnt have the sharp edge on it that a machinists straight edge has. With rounded corners a feeler blade can push it up easier rather than more like a go/no go gauge.
Heres what mine looks like. Notice, not a ruler, plain metal, its only supposed to be used as a machined straight edge.
Heres what mine looks like. Notice, not a ruler, plain metal, its only supposed to be used as a machined straight edge.
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steelholder
Full Access Member
A couple questions-
Trying to get this cooler reassembled but it's not cooperating any other tips here? Used grease but no go.
Messed this part up while I was removing the engine. It's the trans cooler right? I haven't been able to find any other one online that matches its size, roughly 15 in x 24 in. Any recommendations on a replacement?
Trying to get this cooler reassembled but it's not cooperating any other tips here? Used grease but no go.
Messed this part up while I was removing the engine. It's the trans cooler right? I haven't been able to find any other one online that matches its size, roughly 15 in x 24 in. Any recommendations on a replacement?
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