How bad is the HG job on a 7.3 IDI?
- Thread starter steelholder
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Black dawg
Registered User
Have used most all types over the years, but always ultra grey when it mattered. Lots of silicones seem to dry up over time, and get hard. Some eventually come unstuck from the metal. Also have taken enough stuff apart over the years to see the difference.
This is what I primarily use on litrrally... Everything. The compression tube format makes application easy.
Skins over in 30minutes, fully cures in 24hrs. We put oil pans on with this and immediatly run the engines at work, no leaks.
Skins over in 30minutes, fully cures in 24hrs. We put oil pans on with this and immediatly run the engines at work, no leaks.
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Black dawg
Registered User
Most likely same stuff as "ultra grey"
steelholder
Full Access Member
Thanks, I just noticed my kit came with Motorcraft TA-31 Silicone Sealant.
steelholder
Full Access Member
A couple of question -
1. Am I supposed to add RTV to the rear main seal housing on top of the gasket? Please see pic
2. I noticed a groove with my finger on the harmonic pulley rear side (not sure what that's specifically called) I have heard that you're supposed to use a sleeve if that is worn out, what do you guys think? Please see pic.
3. There seems to be small groove where the rear seal goes as well do you also use a sleeve there? Pic
4. Is there a formal sequence on installing the oil pan after adding the RTV? Does the RTV go on the pan, the block or both? I'm assuming you tighten the bolts from on a pattern the inside out? Snug tight first, let dry for how long before i torque them tro spec?
5. Here's a link to the seal kit I bought, could you guys please tell which of these takes RTV on top of the included gasket? I know the oil pan does how about the water pump? Thinking about skipping this one as many of you have said this one isn't too bad to replace with engine in the truck if it ever leaks. What else takes RTV?
Thanks all
1. Am I supposed to add RTV to the rear main seal housing on top of the gasket? Please see pic
2. I noticed a groove with my finger on the harmonic pulley rear side (not sure what that's specifically called) I have heard that you're supposed to use a sleeve if that is worn out, what do you guys think? Please see pic.
3. There seems to be small groove where the rear seal goes as well do you also use a sleeve there? Pic
4. Is there a formal sequence on installing the oil pan after adding the RTV? Does the RTV go on the pan, the block or both? I'm assuming you tighten the bolts from on a pattern the inside out? Snug tight first, let dry for how long before i torque them tro spec?
5. Here's a link to the seal kit I bought, could you guys please tell which of these takes RTV on top of the included gasket? I know the oil pan does how about the water pump? Thinking about skipping this one as many of you have said this one isn't too bad to replace with engine in the truck if it ever leaks. What else takes RTV?
CDD 6.9/7.3 IDI Master Reseal Kit
Complete engine reseal kits with our upgraded head gasket set, valve stem seals, and motorcraft thermostat. Included: Viton front and rear main seals with install sleeve Front and rear engine plate gaskets Oil pickup tube gasket Oil drain gasket Oil dipstick tube o ring Genuine Motorcraft oil...
classicdieseldesigns.com
Thanks all
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
1. Although it's not needed, I like to use a thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket. That makes it not stick so hard to the block or cover so it will come off easier in the future.
2. Looks like it could use a sleeve.
3. It looks like there's already a sleeve on there. Now would be a good time to replace it.
4. I put RTV on the block and tighten the bolts to spec. I don't know of any sequence to tighten the bolts and just run down one side and then the other.
5. I treat the water pump gaskets just like the rear engine cover gasket. A thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket to keep it from sticking.
2. Looks like it could use a sleeve.
3. It looks like there's already a sleeve on there. Now would be a good time to replace it.
4. I put RTV on the block and tighten the bolts to spec. I don't know of any sequence to tighten the bolts and just run down one side and then the other.
5. I treat the water pump gaskets just like the rear engine cover gasket. A thin coat of RTV on both sides of the gasket to keep it from sticking.
Black dawg
Registered User
Been a long time since I used that stuff, but always liked it back when we were using it a lot.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Thanks. Any easy way of removing the sleeve? Looks to be on pretty tight.
Also having a lot of trouble with installing the seals front and rear. Any good ways to get this in? I've seen the methods with a press but I don't have one
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Tap around the sleeve with a hammer. The sleeve will stretch and expand enough to be removed. Just enough to expand sleeve and not damage crank.
steelholder
Full Access Member
I think I'm going to move forward with looking for a sleeve for the crankshaft rear seal. I might also need one for the front. If anyone has the right part number or a good manufacturer I'd appreciate it.
Also, does anyone know if I need to mess with the IP at all if I remove the front seal cover along with the water pump? Don't want to touch that at all
Also, does anyone know if I need to mess with the IP at all if I remove the front seal cover along with the water pump? Don't want to touch that at all
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steelholder
Full Access Member
Looking like my heads are are warped. Some sources say the tolerance is .003 others say .006 I feel like I've cleaned the surface really good. How much can minimal left over build up affect these readings?
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I would clean the carbon off the combustion surface a little more before measuring. When I checked my heads for flatness, i just did the light trick because im lazy. Set straight edge on head length wise so it's parallel with the head, and shine a light at the mating surface on one side, and look for light getting past the straight edge on the other side.
Also, and this is just the opinion of my mentor at work, 'I wouldn't sweat over a couple thousandths, composite gasket and clamping the head with the head bolts will pull er straight again' is what he would always say.
Also, and this is just the opinion of my mentor at work, 'I wouldn't sweat over a couple thousandths, composite gasket and clamping the head with the head bolts will pull er straight again' is what he would always say.
steelholder
Full Access Member
Did the light method as well and it shines through. I know there is visual build up but I've scraped off everything with a razor blade and engine cleaner to the point that it feels smooth on the fingers.
Try using an electric or pneumatic wire wheel. It should look like the rest of the head when all the carbon is off.
This is the setup I used to clean my heads at home.
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