Reggie f250
Full Access Member
They are standard replacement head bolts. Similar to the original bolts
How bad is the HG job on a 7.3 IDI?
- Thread starter steelholder
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steelholder
Registered User
I think this is the perfect kit for this project, what do you guys think? I know it has more than I need like the valve cover gaskets that I already did + other parts but I am hearing its a great brand - The guy from this company I just spoke with said I can go with stock head bolts if I am not running a turbo, thoughts?
https://classicdieseldesigns.com/collections/engine/products/cdd-7-3-6-9-idi-engine-reseal-kit
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IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
He's right. There's no need for head studs if you're not running a turbo. Even the engines with the optional turbo that Ford offered had head bolts. The general rule of thumb is that a 7.3 can take 15 PSI of boost before you need to use studs. People have had more than that, but it's a good safe place. Even if you decide to use a turbo in the future, head studs aren't a requirement if you're running low boost. I see no reason to not use the bolts in your case.
As far as the gasket kit goes, I think that would be a good choice. You can hang onto the unused gaskets for future use if you need them.
As far as the gasket kit goes, I think that would be a good choice. You can hang onto the unused gaskets for future use if you need them.
steelholder
Registered User
Any opinions on Viton front and rear seals? I have heard to only go with the national brand. I also don't know if them having a sleeve means anything. Can i just take the sleeve off if I dont need it? Not really sure what the right question to ask regarding the sleeve is. Never done this job before but I notice some have a sleeve and others dont.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
A "sleeve" usually means a repair sleeve. Those are used over the back of the crankshaft and the harmonic balancer if there's a groove worn into them. It gives you a fresh surface for your seal to seal against. The grooves occur because one or the balancer or crankshaft (whichever we're talking about) has spun against the seal for a long time.
There is a type of rear main seal that uses a plastic install sleeve for you to install it. After the seal is installed, you just pull the sleeve out and throw it away.
There is a type of rear main seal that uses a plastic install sleeve for you to install it. After the seal is installed, you just pull the sleeve out and throw it away.
steelholder
Registered User
OK so even if i don't end up using one its ok to order one with a sleeve? Sorry I have no idea what this will look like or need till I get a chance to get eyes on it.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes. You'll be fine. You won't know if a sleeve is needed until you can look at the suspected part, the crank or balancer.
steelholder
Registered User
This is what AI says about pulling the engine. Anything to not,add or delete ( I have an automatic trans).
Phase 1: Clear the Front & Drain Fluids
- Remove the Hood: Mark the hinge locations with a Sharpie first to make realignment easier later.
- Drain Everything: Drain the coolant (radiator petcock) and the engine oil.
- Front Clip Removal: To make life easier, remove the grille, headlights, and the upper radiator core support.
- Cooling Stack: Remove the radiator, fan shroud, and—if equipped—the intercooler.
- Note: If you have A/C, you can often unbolt the compressor and set it aside on the fender without breaking the lines, saving you a recharge fee.
Phase 2: Disconnect Support Systems
- Electrical: Disconnect the batteries. Unplug the main engine harness (the big square connector near the driver-side valve cover). Disconnect the glow plug controller and the starter wires.
- Fuel Lines: Disconnect the fuel supply and return lines. Cap them to prevent diesel from leaking everywhere.
- Throttle Linkage: Disconnect the throttle cable from the injection pump.
- Power Steering: Unbolt the pump and bungee-cord it to the frame to avoid opening the hydraulic lines.
Phase 3: Separating the Drivetrain
- Exhaust: Unbolt the Y-pipe from the exhaust manifolds. These bolts are notorious for snapping; soak them in PB Blaster 24 hours in advance.
- Transmission Bolts: * Automatic: Remove the inspection cover and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate (rotate the engine by hand to reach all of them).
- Manual: You’ll just be pulling the engine off the input shaft.
- Bellhousing: Remove the bolts securing the engine to the transmission. You’ll need a long extension and a swivel to reach the top bolts.
- Motor Mounts: Remove the nuts from the bottom of the motor mounts (accessible from under the crossmember).
Phase 4: The Pull
- Rigging: Use the factory lift eyes (one front-left, one rear-right). Use a load leveler; it is almost impossible to clear the oil pan over the crossmember without tilting the engine.
- The "Slow Lift": Slowly take up the slack. Ensure the transmission is supported by a jack.
- Wiggle and Tilt: Pull the engine forward until it clears the transmission input shaft/torque converter, then tilt the front up sharply to clear the front crossmember.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Although a lot of people do, I never remove the core support or the other things attached to it.
steelholder
Registered User
you leave the radiator and fan attached?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
No. I remove those. I meant things like the grille, head lights, etc. The engine can be changed out with the radiator in like Nero said, but I feel like there's too good of a chance to damage it that way so I always pull it out.
A few more things. Be sure that change the front seal in your transmission before putting the engine back in. Otherwise it will most likely leak. When pulling and going back in with the engine, go slowly and keep looking around to make sure that you didn't forget to unhook something or that nothing is being pinched when going back in. Keep a close watch on the torque convertor while going back in with the engine. Make sure that the studs are lined up with the holes in the flexplate. As the engine gets closer, I like to keep wiggling the studs to make sure that they have play. There will still be play in the convertor studs after the engine and transmission are bolted back together. That's what the nuts are for. If you get to a point where the two aren't together and you can't wiggle the studs, STOP! You'll have to pull the engine part way back out and make finish seating the convertor. A trick I like to do is to put the convertor drain and the stud next to it at the bottom. Then I rotate the engine until one of the stud hole sin the flexplate is also at the bottom. That makes it easier to line up the flexplate and the convertor.
steelholder
Registered User
Could you elaborate more on the part in bold. I think I can picture about half of what youre describing, thanks.
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
As you are getting the engine and transmission closer together, you first have to make sure that the torque convertor studs and the holes in the flexplate are lined up. Then, as the studs start going into and through the holes, you should be able to move a studs a little bit with your finger. As long as you can do that, the torque convertor isn't in a bind. If it is and you try to force the engine and transmission together, transmission damage will occur. As long as you can move a stud with your finger, keep going, if you can't stop before damage happens. When the engine and transmission are bolted together tightly, you'll still be able to move a stud with your finger. The nuts are what holds the torque convertor tightly to the flexplate and takes away the movement.
steelholder
Registered User
Thanks I should start pulling it this weekend, wish me luck yall
