help with front end

crash-harris

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I would have to refer to my Haynes manual when I get home tomorrow, but I think it's about like the 4x4 lock nut - 100 ft. lbs.
 

franklin2

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I would have to refer to my Haynes manual when I get home tomorrow, but I think it's about like the 4x4 lock nut - 100 ft. lbs.

Be careful. The 4x4 uses two nuts, one to set the bearing tension and one to lock it tight. The lock is the one that is 100ft lbs +. If the 2wd uses a cotter pin to lock the nut, it's probably tighten it to 25 ft lbs and then back it off till the cotter pin lines up with the nearest hole.
 

david85

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what is the spindle nut torque spec? it was super lose it came off hand tight.

There isn't one, so coming off by hand is normal (But there should be a cotter pin in there). You tighten the nut until the rotor starts to drag slightly. Then you back off to the nearest notch and insert the cotter pin. This isn't like the newer bearings on front wheel drive cars and even the newest trucks where you tighten it to spec and the bearing is correctly preloaded. Don't put a wrench on the nut to tighten it!

EDIT: Never mind. Franklin's got it covered - go with his post.
 

ou812didntu.yb

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As already stated several times, balljoints and wheel bearings should be checked.
I worked on these things for years and have a question for you.

When you pull the vehicle forward they straightened up substantially if not completely, correct?
When you back it up, like up the driveway they then really lay out right?

Replace your I-beam and Radius Arm Pivot bushings.

The i-beam suspension on these will allow them to splay out slightly and gets worse as the bushings wear.
I've replaced hundreds of these.
I HIGHLY recommend using urethane bushings. You will never wear them out and the suspension will feel tighter.
Worked in a mine taking car of a Ford fleet and had vehicles with over 100k of off-road "it's company truck so it can go faster, hit bumps harder" driving.
They hit things so hard they'd explode radius arm brackets and crack frames
 

IH444t

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As already stated several times, balljoints and wheel bearings should be checked.
I worked on these things for years and have a question for you.

When you pull the vehicle forward they straightened up substantially if not completely, correct?
When you back it up, like up the driveway they then really lay out right?

Replace your I-beam and Radius Arm Pivot bushings.

The i-beam suspension on these will allow them to splay out slightly and gets worse as the bushings wear.
I've replaced hundreds of these.
I HIGHLY recommend using urethane bushings. You will never wear them out and the suspension will feel tighter.
Worked in a mine taking car of a Ford fleet and had vehicles with over 100k of off-road "it's company truck so it can go faster, hit bumps harder" driving.
They hit things so hard they'd explode radius arm brackets and crack frames

yes it does that when i back up or when i pull out of my ditch, which is just a 2 foot deep.

Im going to fix both of though's things and my tie rod ends are shot.
 
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