Help removing hub
- Thread starter steelheadguy
- Start date
steelheadguy
Registered Idiot
I can move the hub back and forth a quarter inch but I've been hittin the crow bar with a hammer for over an hour now and Im startin to lose hope again. Man I wish I had a torch.
typ4
Full Access Member
I am guessing there is a lip outside of the outer bearing that needs to be sheared off. Likely from running too loose and spinning the inner race.
steelheadguy
Registered Idiot
woooooooo! Finally came off.
A combination of prying and the chain worked. After switching the chain to different lugs it worked.
I dropped the outer bearing in the sand because I was so excited
how can I clean/lube it?
Now how do I get this seal off? What else might need replacing?
A combination of prying and the chain worked. After switching the chain to different lugs it worked.
I dropped the outer bearing in the sand because I was so excited
how can I clean/lube it?Now how do I get this seal off? What else might need replacing?
Last edited:
steelheadguy
Registered Idiot
Was it hard to get off because of this corrosion?
And a round of thanks on me.
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And a round of thanks on me.
Last edited:
Knuckledragger
blowing chunks and grabbing porcelain
Clean the bearings off real well to inspect them and look at the races still in the hub, too. Since there is rust on the spindle, I would guess there might be rust or corrosion on the bearings, which may need to be replaced. Any pits at all are too many.
The seal is just pried out of the hub and the new one carefully tapped into its place. Use a metal plate if you have one, or a flat piece of wood as a buffer between the hammer and seal. Take your time. If bearings need to be replaced, use a drift long enough to pound the races out and new ones in (brass or aluminum are best, be very careful if using steel).
Sand or file off any flaky rust from the spindle, staying away from the bearing surfaces. Spray some WD-40 on to keep from rusting while you finish the rest. Clean surfaces are your friend. Wipe everything down, then clean with gas, solvent, acetone or lacquer thinner all the way up to the brake backing plate. That will keep crap from going right to your new seal.
The seal is just pried out of the hub and the new one carefully tapped into its place. Use a metal plate if you have one, or a flat piece of wood as a buffer between the hammer and seal. Take your time. If bearings need to be replaced, use a drift long enough to pound the races out and new ones in (brass or aluminum are best, be very careful if using steel).
Sand or file off any flaky rust from the spindle, staying away from the bearing surfaces. Spray some WD-40 on to keep from rusting while you finish the rest. Clean surfaces are your friend. Wipe everything down, then clean with gas, solvent, acetone or lacquer thinner all the way up to the brake backing plate. That will keep crap from going right to your new seal.
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Chain whip is a violent action...I whip like I WANNA kill something....it is hard work.
Glad ya got it off...slide hammer ...pffft...who needs a stinking slide hammer...
Man that is some fugly schmeg fer sure there....almost looks like ya peeled a burr off at last thread just before bearing race...
Ifnt u cannot hold the part on with spindle nut...always tie a safety onto hub to springs....aka another chain...cause if whipped hard enough...it could fly off..n KYTFO or hurt ya.
I would wirr wheel that rust off
Bearing can be cleaned in solvent or bucket diesel etc...inspect for rust as previously mentioned.
Thanks for great pics and update.
Ifn u was closer would toss ya a housing....got one with better stubs.
Glad ya got it off...slide hammer ...pffft...who needs a stinking slide hammer...
Man that is some fugly schmeg fer sure there....almost looks like ya peeled a burr off at last thread just before bearing race...
Ifnt u cannot hold the part on with spindle nut...always tie a safety onto hub to springs....aka another chain...cause if whipped hard enough...it could fly off..n KYTFO or hurt ya.
I would wirr wheel that rust off
Bearing can be cleaned in solvent or bucket diesel etc...inspect for rust as previously mentioned.
Thanks for great pics and update.
Ifn u was closer would toss ya a housing....got one with better stubs.
typ4
Full Access Member
That kind of corrosion is from moisture sitting in hub. Change the bearings. Dont get cheap ones. This is not a place to scrimp on.
steelheadguy
Registered Idiot
Running to NAPA for bearings. They look good to me i was about to skip or skimp on them but theres the slightest pitting.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Hard to tell.
But looks to me like a 2 piece wheel seal. Could be why it took so much.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
But looks to me like a 2 piece wheel seal. Could be why it took so much.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
steelheadguy
Registered Idiot
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Wire wheeled
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DaytonaBill
Full Access Member
Wow! Good job...
riotwarrior
Full Access Member
Dont forget elbow grease too...took plenty I bet
Wire wheeled
steelheadguy
Registered Idiot
Let me start by saying there is no help for me.
I thought you would all get a laugh at this.
I got so excited my new bearings and races came in. I quickly punched out the old ones and then like to amateur I am, I installed the inner race backwards
Now the way it is tapered there is no lip to punch it back out. Ive been trying to pry it out but after hitting it for 2 hours, I dont think it is coming out.
I came up with two methods to remove the race. A new one will have to be bought
1. Heat up the race with a torch and try prying again.
Or
2. Dremel some lips to punch it out or cut it out completely.
Id have to drive to use my friends torch, or go to home depot to buy the dremel.
I guess this is why people dont do their own truck work anymore.
I thought you would all get a laugh at this.
I got so excited my new bearings and races came in. I quickly punched out the old ones and then like to amateur I am, I installed the inner race backwards
Now the way it is tapered there is no lip to punch it back out. Ive been trying to pry it out but after hitting it for 2 hours, I dont think it is coming out.
I came up with two methods to remove the race. A new one will have to be bought
1. Heat up the race with a torch and try prying again.
Or
2. Dremel some lips to punch it out or cut it out completely.
Id have to drive to use my friends torch, or go to home depot to buy the dremel.
I guess this is why people dont do their own truck work anymore.
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