Help major tranny leak

[IDIBRONCO]

It's been a long time since I've done this, but I will be doing it in the future. First I have to get another truck going so that I can replace the rear seal on the Blue Truck. If I can ever get that thing to stop leaking, then I can get the turbo installed on it too.

 

[Austin86250]

Kind of strange seeing it run like that isn't it?

Yes it is, also nice to take a break from working on the truck to seeing and learning what goes on back there

 

[Big Bart]

that is diesel on the left side from when i turned my pump up and broke the gasket and ran it with the broken gasket
from the research I've brought up it sounds quite hard to do the front pump
{Somehow stand the transmission on the output shaft so the pump is facing up.

Remove the pump retaining bolts.
Tap 2 oppossing holes in the pump body with a 3/8 NC thread.
Tighten the band adjusting screw.
Install a slide hammer into the tapped holes.
As the slide hammer is being used push down and keep pressure on the input shaft.
This will keep stuff from falling apart inside.

Once the pump has been removed take it apart.
Pay attention to how the gears are installed before you remove them.
There is a gasket and square cut "O" ring to replace along with the seal.
Use a screw driver and tap the seal out.

Apply a bit of sealant to the outside of the seal only.
Reassemble the pump.
Clean any caked on gasket material from the case.

Install 2 5/16" guide studs into the case.
Place the gasket over the studs.
Install the "O" ring.
Apply some atf or light grease to the "O" ring, no sealant.
Loosen the band adjuster screw.
Carefully install the pump.
Torque the bolts to 16-30 foot pounds.
Lay the transmission down and adjust the band.
Torque the adjuster screw to 10 foot pounds and back it off 1 to 1 1/2 turns.}

So if you know the fluid on the pump is diesel I would do the following.

1) Replace the TC seal. Lube it it with a little grease.
2) Check the TC shaft to make sure it is smooth and will not damage the next one.
3) I would suggest you do the rear main engine seal while you have the tranny out.
4) Use some blue lock tight on the flexplate and TC bolts.

Put it all back together and you are good to go. Take your time putting the TC back on the tranny. Twist it back and forth and a little up and down. As I recall it aligns with three things so often you will notice it goes in a little, then by twisting a little more, and then by twisting a little more and is in place.

Post some pics and let us know how it turns out.

 

[Austin86250]

Believe I got all the parts before I start, am I missing anything besides the rear main?

 

[TNBrett]

If you’re doing the rear main seal as well. Measure the old one first. If a wear sleeve was installed on the crankshaft, it takes a different seal. I don’t think it pertains to you but at some point maybe 93 or so I believe they were built new with the sleeve. I couldn’t find the right seal for the wear sleeve outside of a kit with the sleeve.

 

[Austin86250]

I'm not doing the rear main despite what people say just another can of worms i dont want to open as my plate is full right now and the rear main is not leaking anyways

 

[Big Bart]

I'm not doing the rear main despite what people say just another can of worms i dont want to open as my plate is full right now and the rear main is not leaking anyways

Then It looks like you have what you need.

 

[Austin86250]

Will this new seal work looks a tad different, it’s the part number matches the one @IDIBRONCO put up

 

[TNBrett]

Check the fit of the ID of the new seal on the converter. If so, it should work. Your old seal is probably a better design in that the lip on it keeps you from driving it in too far, keeps it aligned correctly in the bore, and makes it easier to remove the seal without removing the pump from the case. If you use the new seal you have, just be sure you get it in straight, and don’t drive it in beyond flush with the surface of the pump.

On a second look, is the pic with the new seal in the transmission just started in the bore, or is that as far as it will go? If that’s as far as it will go, that won’t work. It will pop back out eventually.

 

[Austin86250]

Check the fit of the ID of the new seal on the converter. If so, it should work. Your old seal is probably a better design in that the lip on it keeps you from driving it in too far, keeps it aligned correctly in the bore, and makes it easier to remove the seal without removing the pump from the case. If you use the new seal you have, just be sure you get it in straight, and don’t drive it in beyond flush with the surface of the pump.

On a second look, is the pic with the new seal in the transmission just started in the bore, or is that as far as it will go? If that’s as far as it will go, that won’t work. It will pop back out eventually.

I just started it in the bore haven’t tried driving the whole way yet

 

[TNBrett]

I just started it in the bore haven’t tried driving the whole way yet

Should be fine then.

 

[Austin86250]

Kind of a stupid question but can you flip the trans pan side up without harm so I can do the filter out side the truck?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

You can. If you do that, you run the risk of possibly having some sludge from the bottom fall toward the top of the transmission. I don't know how likely that is, but it is a possibility. When I do this, I like to place something underneath the transmission bellhousing and tail shaft so that it's open under the pan. Then I place a bucket or something else to catch the oil underneath the pan and remove the pan and filter with the transmission upright. After the fluid has drained out, then I'll slowly roll the transmission over so that it's easier to put the new filter in and the pan back on.

 

[Austin86250]

Alas I got the seal in thanks to my homemade seal installer 2 1/2” exhaust and 1/8” steel also is the seal in properly?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It looks like it is from what I can tell. As long as the seal is flush all the way around, it's in right.