heater core plumbing?

pt_Ranger_v8

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On my 94 donor engine, the heater core was plumbed ...oddly. One line came from the water pump like normal, the other was 'T'ed though. one half went to the block, and the other went to the radiator. Is that normal?

Sorry - 94 7.3 idi ;Really
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yup, that's normal. If you pull the heater hose off the radiator fitting you'll see that while the barb is pretty huge at 3/4" the actual hole through it is very small, like 3/16" or something - the setup basically ensures there will be some coolant going around the transmission cooler in the bottom tank of the rad to help warm it up faster (automatic transmissions don't like hot ATF, but they don't like it too cold either). If you're replacing the heater hoses, you don't have to buy this assembly from the dealership - all you need to do is carefully cut apart the aluminum crimp collars that hold the rubber hoses on the steel fitting (Dremel tool works great for this), then you can slice the hoses with a razor blade and you end up with a bare steel T-ee fitting with barb ends - slip your new hoses on that, put regular hose clamps on them, and you're good to go. Or, if your truck warms up fast and you don't really drive it anywhere till it's warm, you can just skip the T-ee setup altogether, and run a hose from the engine block/head straight to the heater, and plug the port in the radiator's bottom tank with a 3/8"-NPT solid plug.
 

pt_Ranger_v8

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Yup, that's normal. If you pull the heater hose off the radiator fitting you'll see that while the barb is pretty huge at 3/4" the actual hole through it is very small, like 3/16" or something - the setup basically ensures there will be some coolant going around the transmission cooler in the bottom tank of the rad to help warm it up faster (automatic transmissions don't like hot ATF, but they don't like it too cold either). If you're replacing the heater hoses, you don't have to buy this assembly from the dealership - all you need to do is carefully cut apart the aluminum crimp collars that hold the rubber hoses on the steel fitting (Dremel tool works great for this), then you can slice the hoses with a razor blade and you end up with a bare steel T-ee fitting with barb ends - slip your new hoses on that, put regular hose clamps on them, and you're good to go. Or, if your truck warms up fast and you don't really drive it anywhere till it's warm, you can just skip the T-ee setup altogether, and run a hose from the engine block/head straight to the heater, and plug the port in the radiator's bottom tank with a 3/8"-NPT solid plug.


That's probably what I'm going to do ;Sweet. I'd never seen one set up like that before, and it made me go :dunno.


Where should I pull the coolant from? The plug by number 1 cylinder, or number 7 cylinder?
 

LCAM-01XA

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Just how it is from the factory, so #1 IIRC - no point in messing with stuff that needs no messing with, lol. Then to plug the rad just go to your local hardware store and grab a brass plug of the 3/8" NPT variety. Downside to that is you gotta drain the radiator, which ain't entirely necessary if you're only replacing the hoses but keeping the factory T-ee setup...
 

pt_Ranger_v8

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Just how it is from the factory, so #1 IIRC - no point in messing with stuff that needs no messing with, lol. Then to plug the rad just go to your local hardware store and grab a brass plug of the 3/8" NPT variety. Downside to that is you gotta drain the radiator, which ain't entirely necessary if you're only replacing the hoses but keeping the factory T-ee setup...

As it's a swap, the radiator is already drained LOL.


Should I use the diesel rad, or keep the radiator for my 351w gasser that is currently in my truck?
 

LCAM-01XA

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As it's a swap, the radiator is already drained LOL.


Should I use the diesel rad, or keep the radiator for my 351w gasser that is currently in my truck?

I'd say go with the diesel-specific radiator, them IDIs can make lots of heat that a smaller gasser rad may not be able to keep up with.
 

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