Head gasket questions

[Michael Fowler]

Well, the consensus is in; it looks as if I will be replacing head gaskets on my 6.9.
Do I need to remove the hood? I plan to use a shop crane to lift out and replace the heads. Will the hood be in the way?

Does anyone have recommendations on where to get the gasket set. Which brands are better, which should I avoid? Best price on head set plus valley pan I guess I need a new vallet pan.

Clinic anyone???

Michael

 

[69oiler]

yes the hood will be in the way. you will be in there sitting on the radiator support and you will need the headroom not to mention the clearance for the hoist. it's easier if you remove the hood.

i think i used Felpro gaskets i got online. i don't have the site but i'll try and find it again for you.

i would highly recommend you use ARP head studs. Summit racing has them if you call. you may not find them in their catalog. i paid around $200 for mine.

 

[Michael Fowler]

OK, so give me the details on the studs.
How do I install them? Do I install them and then drop the head over them?
What torque?

 

[Mr_Roboto]

You can unbolt the hood springs and the hood will sit straight up. Put a blanket under / behind the hood and tie the hood up securely.

 

[Diesel JD]

I have Victor-Reinz gaskets in mine from NAPA which seem to be fine after 34K miles, but no turbo yet, we'll see how they hold then.... the consensus seems to be that Fel-pros are the favorite. Studs are a good idea if you plan to turbo or go for hi-perf. or just want to eliminate the likelihood of a future problem some 100-200K miles down the road.

 

[h2odrx]

the easy way is like this?

 

[69oiler]

h2odrx has it. use rubber bands to hold the studs on the back few holes. you will figure out which ones when you pull the heads out.

to install studs... one end has coarse threads and the other has fine threads. screw the coarse end into the block by hand until they bottom out. (actually a few of mine are not bottomed out but that's another story. we'll assume yours will bottom out.) then the nuts and washers go on the fine thread end. i torqued mine in 3 stages to i think 85 ft lbs but you should double check that. whatever the torque # is, it's more clamping force than the same torque # on a coarse thread. this is another advantage over head bolts. also, the studs are rated much higher in strength so they resist stretching and i believe are reusable.

take all the normal percautions such as chasing the block threads with a tap and oiling the threads on the studs for accurate torque readings.

 

[icanfixall]

If you leave the motor in the truck you will find some push rods that have to stay in the head along with the bolts that can't be removed till the head is off. Just make sure you mark or remember which ones that stay in the head. Now is a good time to replace the oil cooler gaskets. You'll never have more room to get at it unless its on a stand out of the truck...

 

[RLDSL]

On your year, I don't know if the clearance is the same as my '92, but i dfound taking the engine side cover of the AC evaporator makes for a bunch more clearance. You'll need to use rubber bands on the drivers side at the back weather studs or bolts.
Taking the radiator out gives you room to stand in there on the frame rails instead of having to bend over so much.
Make sure to remove the head bolts by just cracking lose in reverse torque order and then loosing a little at a time in reverse order until finger tight, then zip them out with the air tools

Have fun with it -------Robert

 

[apextrans]

Although my problems are much more involved, we have 2 eras of 7.3's being dismantled in the same neighborhood!!

 

[Michael Fowler]

Scott,
I like the look with the fan exposed. It looks like it could fly!

 

[Agnem]

Michael, if you want Ford parts at a discount I can help you. I'd get my gaskets there or from IH. Definitely don't skimp on the bolts.