HE351VE Remote Mount Turbo

[79jasper]

Sure, if you don't know what you're doing.
Just how many times have those "under 100k" odometer's rolled over?

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[Macrobb]

Doesn't even make sense, imo.
1. If you even find a "low mile" IDI, it's still plenty over 100k, plus going to be way more than $5k.

I hate to say it, but a 300K mile IDI is still a perfectly drivable truck most times. And I've gotten my turbo trucks(admittedly not in the best condition visually) for $2K or less.

3. You're forgetting about the whole drivetrain/suspension on the IDI that's going to need replaced. Not to mention any rust issues. (Again, rust free are out there, but that's going to raise the price immensely.)

What's going to need replaced again? Based on my experience, you might need a few bushings in the front end if they haven't already been replaced, shocks(routine), etc.
The front axles(at least the Dana 50s) seem to last just fine as long as there is oil in them; transfer cases don't disintegrate badly, Sterling 10.25 rears are pretty bulletproof overall, and even if you did have to replace the ring and pinion, that's maby $200 in parts, and a couple hours?
Rust... At least where I am(some salt equivalent used on the roads), you might find a little rust, but things don't 'rust out' like they do back east. My '93 has quite a bit of body rust, but it was a Canadian truck. And the frame/drivetrain/suspension is still sound!

4. Most of the parts you mentioned the 6.0 or 6.7 needing because it's 200k miles. False, unlike the IDI, some stock fuel system components will last well over that mileage. Especially the common rail parts in the 6.7, which is the most reliable system out there.

Until you get a little water in there... New fuel system time!

An IDI on the other hand... it dies, you drain the water out, bleed the system and it fires right back up again. No real harm done.
Worst case, if you got water in there and it sat for a long time... replace the IP($800) and injectors($300)... Done deal, nothing internal to the motor.

I do not believe that a common rail system is the 'most reliable' system out there; mechanical injection is far better in that the pressures are a lot lower and you have no computer to fail.
No, it will never get the fuel economy of a common rail system(LB7 duramax in a 2500... 20.8mpg average recently. Wow.), but it's a lot simpler overall.

I mean... no matter what we think about the DB2 IP, it's a relatively simple design, with few moving parts. Not a ton that can go critically wrong, which is also why IDIs get this reputation - instead of just dying, they keep running worse and worse as things wear out... but they still /run/.

 

[pelky350]

6000$ gets you a idi with no rust around here meaning obs style truck with idi usually turbo already. That's a clean truck with basically no issues price around here. Meaning suspensions been worked on and any parts needing replaced have already been replaced at that point.

 

[79jasper]

Figured could ruffle feathers. Lol


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[pelky350]

lol I'm also arguing this while had only paid 600$ for my rust free crew cab 5speed 7.3 126xxx mile truck but it "didnt run" technically when I paid for it and it was kinda ugly but drove it from its resting spot within 20 minutes of purchase so I may have a biased oppinion, and myself I couldn't afford a 6.0 or 6.7 without financing and I don't like extra bills but if my truck blew up or was totaled I'd probably end up with a more modern truck

 

[kent01]

For sure the later model trucks are tough to work on.... Yank the cab to do anything to the turbo. Price for them is really wide I found an 08 CCLB, with 128K on the clock, good Carfax report. Price $ 9480. Bargain?
I think so, I figured I could get 3K for my 88 IDI truck, fork out$6500. And have a much newer more powerful trk. Do a EGR delete,do a tuner upgrade, money well spent.

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[kent01]

My 88 IDI, I bought for $2250, supposed to be 97K on the odometer. Changed all fluids, it had a new radiator,fan clutch. Had to replace all the U joints and carrier bearing. All were dry and shot.
Then water pump went south.
97K??? Maybe rolled over 2/3 times.
It runs good, gets 18 mpg@75/80 in interstate.
I'd rather sell it and buy a newer trk
For what it would cost to upgrade this one.

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[pelky350]

Could have been 97xxx, your talking about 30 years of a truck sitting around with that low of miles of course if nobody re greased anything it's gonna dry up eventually and 30 years I feel is a little passed the due date for lubracating the chassis parts lol if you opened up a container of say wheel bearing grease from 1988 would you expect it to be usable still?

 

[Macrobb]

Basically, it comes down to work - if you can do it yourself, an IDI is cheap and easy to work on(and you pay yourself in lack of payments) . If you are paying for repairs, though... that's when a modern truck makes more sense, even if it costs more.

 

[03wr250f]

Basically, it comes down to work - if you can do it yourself, an IDI is cheap and easy to work on(and you pay yourself in lack of payments) . If you are paying for repairs, though... that's when a modern truck makes more sense, even if it costs more.

I think @Macrobb is spot on.
Sometimes the reason for owning an older truck has to do with sentimentality towards older trucks.
Though sometimes it is better financially to get a newer truck, and sometimes it is better to run an older one, depending on how much repairs are needed, or not on either. I mean if you found on craigslist a 93 ford f350 with maintenance records of everything ever done, brand new tires, turbod and intercooled, recent fluid changes and such with 200K on it or a 2002 7.3 with 350K on it and a 8" stacks and wore 33s for the same price which would you choose?

 

[Thewespaul]

I think @Macrobb is spot on.
Sometimes the reason for owning an older truck has to do with sentimentality towards older trucks.
Though sometimes it is better financially to get a newer truck, and sometimes it is better to run an older one, depending on how much repairs are needed, or not on either. I mean if you found on craigslist a 93 ford f350 with maintenance records of everything ever done, brand new tires, turbod and intercooled, recent fluid changes and such with 200K on it or a 2002 7.3 with 350K on it and a 8" stacks and wore 33s for the same price which would you choose?

I paid 3500 for my rust free 93 f250 and bought it from the original owner with a binder full of service records. The truck was garage kept it’s entire life and only got used to pull a small fifth wheel around. Biggest reason I can see for buying new is taxes, especially if you are self employed

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Service items are always hard to tell mileage from. My 88 f250 daily I paid 1200 bucks for it. Had 88k on it. Also had a yellow decal on the door. Registered Pennsylvania farm vehicle. So I highly believe the 88k. But the entire d44hd was beat, including the tcase. I have reason to think 3/4 of the 88k was with either hubs locked in or in 4x4. Currently I have 3k into it, turboed with full moose products and d60 swapped. Just gotta find the deals. But I say it to everyone, I will always trust my 18 mpg getting old Smokey beat up farm truck over any newer 12-15 mpg truck that will shut down when a sensor goes bad. I work on new diesels every day for work, and refuse to do it at home.

 

[hesutton]

Basically, it comes down to work - if you can do it yourself, an IDI is cheap and easy to work on(and you pay yourself in lack of payments) . If you are paying for repairs, though... that's when a modern truck makes more sense, even if it costs more.

Be capable of doing the work is one thing, having the time to do the work is another. For me, I have not had the time to maintain a 30 plus year old truck properly for the last couple of years. Because I've not been able to keep working on all the little things that add up on 30 + year old rig, they add up to a time vacuum that I can't continue to chase.

That is why my pair of '86 IDI's are in the shop and the new F450 is in the driveway. Plus, it hauls amazingly well. No payment on the new rig (luckily - ) either. But, the only down side I see compared to the old IDI's is the mileage. 14 empty, 10-11 towing. IDI 17 empty, 10 towing.

Heath

 

[kent01]

Could have been 97xxx, your talking about 30 years of a truck sitting around with that low of miles of course if nobody re greased anything it's gonna dry up eventually and 30 years I feel is a little passed the due date for lubracating the chassis parts lol if you opened up a container of say wheel bearing grease from 1988 would you expect it to be usable still?

Nothing was greaseable, all sealed units... It's all good now I replaced them all with high strength greaseable units.

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[kent01]

Basically, it comes down to work - if you can do it yourself, an IDI is cheap and easy to work on(and you pay yourself in lack of payments) . If you are paying for repairs, though... that's when a modern truck makes more sense, even if it costs more.

I do all of my own mechanical work,
Time is my problem. Or lack of time.
I want a truck to drive, not a truck to work on....

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