Have issue with brake and fuel filler neck

[farmboy9090]

Well I got my new vaccum pump on and brake work good now was excited to start using the truck as a truck but noticed that something in the rear brakes must of busted or rusted apart because every now and then it will make a grinding and sometimes a bang. Can you take off the drums without removing the axles and bearings. Have a haynes manual and they say to remove axle and wheel assembly as one just to get to the rear shoes but that that might not be right.
Also I tread going to the pump because it takes so long to fill up because of the air vent. I did try the wallow out the air vent hole in the neck but it seems it doesnt help. Still cant get the first click out of the pump and it is already foaming back at me. I know there are post about the filler neck issue but want to know if anyone else has a solution. I haven't tried going to a different fuel station with a differnt pump yet figure the pump a usally go to may be pumping their diesel out to fast. Any input would helps.

 

[jonathan]

take the roleover valves out of the tanks and put a piece of hose in the holes were the valves were that will help and there is a hose inside the filler neck hose remove it that helps also

 

[franklin2]

If you have a Ford/Sterling rearend(no oil fill plug in the rear cover) the drums do just come off. If you have a Dana rearend(fill plug in the rear cover) some of them do require pulling the axles and the hubs.

 

[OLDBULL8]

How can anyone tell you about any truck when they don't know what it is.
Put the truck in your signature.

 

[icanfixall]

Drive up on a 4x4 block under the rear tire on the fill side. that places the truck on an angle so the fuel runs in differantly. Remember to retreve the block after a fillup...

 

[farmboy9090]

Does a thick piece of wood under the rear drivers tire actually help with filling. Anyone else had any luck do it this way.

 

[Fordsandguns]

Yep, the block under the drivers rear does help.

 

[hesutton]

What truck to you have? Without that info, we don't know if you have to remove the hub or not to get the drum off.

The filler necks can be fixed one of two way. Either get a Transfer Flow filler neck kit, or modifiy them yourself. I have the Transfer flow kit on my '86 crew cab and I have home modified fillernecks on my '86 F250. Both will allow the use of big nozzle pumps and you can fill your empty tanks in less than 60 seconds with either.

Heath

 

[sle2115]

I have a kit similar to what Heath has posted, but I bought it off ebay for $25 and put one on the front and rear tank. It takes the vent tube out of the filler neck. It helped mine a bunch, but didn't fix it, mainly because I have long "flat" (no drop for the fuel to drain) sections to be back under my flat bed. Still, MUCH better than the stock filler necks. I need to work on the rollover valves and think that will help a bunch.

 

[subway]

I need to work on the rollover valves and think that will help a bunch.

just cleaning the spider webs out of that tube made a differance in my truck

i think i might have to open up the fillers in mine sometime soon.