Gutless or just me?

Cheapthrillb2

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Okay, so I have only owned two diesels in my life, never grew up around them and have never towed with them other then the two I have owned.

With my 97 OBS just seems gutless to me, I don't feel the torque, doesn't climb light hills worth a damn while towing approx 7K pounds.

I installed a pyro and I can tell while towing my trailer and truggy it climbs to 1200* pretty easy on the slightest of hills regardless of throttle wether it be 1/4 or full. No matter how hard I push it, it never emits any smoke. I would think it would roll a little coal.

My prior diesel had more grunt and power IMO, it was a 89 crew long box 7.3 idi 5speed with 4.10s and bone stock. Granted my 97 has 3.54's but I wouldn't think it would make that much difference.

I also had a 92 f250 std cab long box f250 with a Windsor and an e4od with 4.10's and honestly I think that towed/more power then my 97 as well.

Am I justcookoo or:dunno Just seem really dissappointed with 97, I figured it would have been a decent power output upgrade over my N/A 89 IDI.
 

Silver Burner

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If you're not smoking at all and running that hot EGT's I would say your IP is on it's way out. I don't know these DI computer run diesels though..
 

zpd307

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have you checked for boost leaks, or up pipe leaks? what are your boost numbers?
 

Cheapthrillb2

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I am seeing 15psi of boost give or take the needle bounce plus/minus a psi lol. I haven't noticed any leaks per say. What is the best way to look? I have a evap smoke machine at my dispossal.

I just went out and noticed that I do not get a SES lamp when I do a key check with the rest of the dash lights...(Only owned the truck for the last 2 months). When I get to work I am gonna hook the scanner to it and see if I get any codes.

I also have issues with the EBV on cold start ups, but today it wasn't making that same "noise" as it does when the valve closes.
 

Cheapthrillb2

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Okay ran the scanner on it.

Code History showed
p0470 Exh Back Pressure Sensor circuit Perf.
p0478 Exh Pressure Control Valve High

About a month ago I tried unplugging the EBV connector near the turbo to try and "turn off" the valve it didn't work so I plugged it in.

KOER
p0476 Exh Pressure Control Valve Performance

KOER Cyl Contribute Self Test
p0196 Engine Oil Temp Sensor Circuit
p0269 Cyl 3 Contibution or Balance Fault
p0272 Cyl 4
p0275 Cyl 5
po281 Cyl 7

KOER Injector Buzz Self Test
P1298 Ignition Diag Monitor Failure



While viewing data when truck running it does show the IAT at 39* but not setting any code for it.
 

82F100SWB

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If you unplugged the connector at the turbo for the EBPV, it should have disabled it, it should only activate when the solenoid has power. I have mine wired to a switch, and disconnected from the factory harness, but everything sensor wise is still there, and it doesn't throw any codes.
Was the truck good and warmed up before you ran the contribution test?
I'd lean towards valve cover harness connection issues or the likes, but, you have codes coming from both sides. If the truck was good and warm and your oil isn't too old, I'd be looking into why those cylinders aren't passing, could be simple like poor electrical connections, could be bent pushrods, could be bad injectors, or could be compression issues.
If it has that many cylinders running sub par, it should be pretty guttless.
It also appears that some 97+ trucks will have phantom cylinder contribution codes with the new grey cps from what I'm seeing online, there's even a TSB on it.
 

Cheapthrillb2

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Yes truck was warmed, drove it 25 miles city driving prior to running the test. Oil is approx 2K old.

I did replace the CPS with one from napa, that matched the production or build date. I replaced it just cause, maybe throw the old one (OE) back in and retest? I kept it and tossed it in the glove box.
 

Cheapthrillb2

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Update after some tinkering...

Cleared all codes and keep getting back in the ecm
p0478 Exh Pressure Control valve high

Earlier I was able to run the cyl contribution test, now everytime I attempt to run the test it flags
p0196 Engine oil Temp sensor Circuit

Viewing data my oil temp is at 153* and 1.84 volts with the engine coolant reading in its normal operating range for my truck fully warmed. I do not see the actual reading the coolant is at on the scanner however. On the guage it reads to the line before the normal reading. While towing it never reaches past the N in normal.

I cannot find a spec on oil pressure so I am unclear if that reading is normal at idle or below/above normal.

I did replace the IAT and that is now reading normal.
 

Cheapthrillb2

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Also with the KOEO I am showing 53 psi exhaust back pressure......I would think it would be 0 psi with the truck off? And when I unplug the two wire connector below the turbo inlet from the air filter the readings do not change, that is the connector for the EBV sensor isn't it?

I ran a evap smoke machine on the exhaust, at the air filter inlet, and at the map line and found no leaks that way.

Also read about a MAP TSB, regarding the wrong one installed from the factory, About it being grey and the right one black? Mine has a grey out casing and where the connector and line go into it is black.

We use Alldata for our service work at the shop and there location for the sensor itself is wrong. but after my above post I was reading through the 7.3L tech threads and found the sensor location. And found the actual sensor and when I unplug that my readings dropped to .2 psi for exhaust back pressure with the koeo vs 53psi like it was reading.
 
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Cheapthrillb2

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I talked with the PO earlier and the only thing he had replaced in the last 100K was the CPS sensor with the international part. I reinstalled that CPS sensor before I left work. Other then starter/Alt/batteries/filters he hadn't had to do anything else.

When I got home I reran the contribution test, this time it did the test. Guess the oil temp needs to be above 151*. It was at 179* when I did the test. This time it came back
cyl 8
cyl 3
cyl 4
cyl 5
cyl 6
cyl 7
cyl 8
in that order

If I am in park fully warmed (oil temp at 180*) and slowly rev the motor, when I get to about 2900 rpms it starts to stumble or sputter and as I rev it up it begins to emit blue(?) smoke.
 

zpd307

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i just ordered a new ebpv sensor and tube on line from tousley ford, they were the cheapest. shipped was $116.00 for both..... when i checked both, they were full of hard crusty soot.
 

Cheapthrillb2

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Okay this am, with the ebv sensor unplugged, when I left the house the valve closed/got the hiss/ couldn't acccel over 35mph until after 2 miles of driving it at that speed. Then it opened and off I went.

Did the contribution again this morning cyl's 2-7 this time. Seems cyl 1 is the only constant.

I am thinking I might order up the valve cover gasket set that comes with the inj connectors, while having it off check all my pushrods.
 

82F100SWB

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All kinds of goofy stuff will happen if the sensor is unplugged, or if the line is missing. If it's not functioning right you either have a plugged/cracked line to the sensor, or a bad sensor.
If you unplug the connector by the turbo the EBPV shouldn't activate at all. I have mine hooked to a manual switch as with the auto computer in there still, it was acting all screwy when my buddy did the manual swap, so he just unhooked it. I put it on a dash mounted toggle for cold weather use, plus it's a not bad engine brake.

My old 00 Super Duty did the same stumble and sputter at rpm and blue smoke and was kind of guttless, but ran fine and didn't throw any codes... I'm thinking it may be injectors or injector o-rings at fault there. I didn't realize I was down on power not having driven another truck of the same spec, and I didn't tow with it, but, my 96, which I know has 1 or 2 unhealthy injectors(rough idle that shakes the truck...) would have walked all over it.
 

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