got head studs now questions
- Thread starter crash86
- Start date
The specs I have for mine are 190,000 psi, according to the leaflet I got from ARP.
The torque specs are as follows:
I also installed a turbo, and the ATS instructions were to add 10 ft-lbs to the factory specs (which were 75 ft-lbs). I called ARP and asked them for their recommendation, and they recommended that I compromise between the two and torque to 90 ft-lbs.
I talked about it a bit more here. FWIW, this was about 4 1/2 years ago now, and I haven't had any problems... knock on wood
Hope this helps a bit...good luck!
The torque specs are as follows:
I also installed a turbo, and the ATS instructions were to add 10 ft-lbs to the factory specs (which were 75 ft-lbs). I called ARP and asked them for their recommendation, and they recommended that I compromise between the two and torque to 90 ft-lbs.
I talked about it a bit more here. FWIW, this was about 4 1/2 years ago now, and I haven't had any problems... knock on wood
Hope this helps a bit...good luck!
I didn't know DPS was selling studs for 6.9l's...I thought they were only selling for 7.3l's? That said, I would do a search around this board for issues relating to DPS before ordering from them. He has a reputation for being difficult to contact. Also, people have had issues with some of their products...I don't know if the studs have had any problems, although I recall there being some. Again, I would do a search...
I mean, that ARP wanted the studs to be torqued to 85 ft-lbs, which is 10 ft-lbs more than the specs for my '84 6.9l. ATS's instructions were to increase the head bolt torque by 10 ft-lbs. If I had followed both ARP's and ATS's instructions, I would have had to have torqued my stud nuts to 95 ft-lbs. I wasn't sure this would be safe, so I called ARP about this, and they said that 95 would probably be too much, but that 90 would be okay.
GenLightening
Yeah, it's a CHEVY!
Those are the ones that some have used, heard a loud BANG and found a stud laying in the driveway.
New head and valley gaskets and try again. I haven't heard of anyone having any issues with the ARP studs. I'm pretty much staying away from anything DPS. I can create problems all on my own!
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Personally i would stay away from the DPS studs. The ARP studs are much much better than the stock bolts, and I think the DPS studs may be just a little too hard and difficult to deal with. And as with all DPS stuff it may be hard to make Ken stand behind it, but even if he does, and you get a new set, chances are you'll be back to square one a few months later. The ARP stuff is great but you really need their stud lube, you need to follow their directions to a T and you need to use a known good(and preferably calibrated) torque wrench. I bet you would be at least knocking on the door of 20PSI before you blew a head gasket with ARP studs installed right. At that point, without some way to cool the air charge you'd just be compressing hot air. An intercooler and perhaps water injection changes this.
I torqued my 7.3 studs to factory spec ,BECAUSE the fine thread will impart lots more clamping force to the gasket. I run 13 lbs regularly and have no problems. 90 on a fine thread is taxing the7/16 course threads in the 6.9 block I think.
And anything over 8 lbs is just superheated air unless intercooled.
And anything over 8 lbs is just superheated air unless intercooled.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I helped Ken design the 7.3 studs. I got the first set. They looked like surgical stainless steel. They were 270,000 psi... They held very well untill I burned down that new motor when a freezeplug let go. The crappy shop installed the wrong type and didn't use the special tool. We live and learn. I intsalled those same studs in my second rrbuild. I found one laying in the driveway and another wedged between the motor mount and frame. They came off the same side just above number 6 exhaust port.. Leaker too... So I now run the ARP 7.3 studs with a 220,000 psi breaking strength. Kens were great but they didn't stand up too well after the overheating. Others installed them and founf some laying on the shop floor without the motor ever cranking or running. Ken reported that they were having a heat treating issue so thats all I know about that.
