Got free truck have a few questions.

[Goldenarrow]

This is my first post here but I have been reading lots of old threads.

My neighbor had a 90 f250 single cab long bed that Hasn't been run in at least a couple of years he was driving home from a dump run and it just died on him like he had run it out of gas he hadn't registered it in several years and he didn't want to pay the back tags even if he could fix it. So he gave it to me just to have it out of his back yard.

I brought it home and put a couple of batterys in it five gallons of fresh fuel in the front tank and started trying to blead the fuel lines I was getting fuel to the injection pump but not to the injectors. I could tell that the fuel cutoff solenoid wasnt working. When I realized that I started looking at the ignition switch and found that it wouldn't stay in the run position. I replaced the switch and the truck fired right up.

The truck seems to run strong but I can't take it out yet because I haven't registered it yet.

My questions are about towing. I know these engines aren't known for speed but will it be able to pull my 25' 1975 single axle airstream up to the mountians? I live in CA on the valley floor and often go camping in the mountains at 8,000' sometimes over passes higher than 10,000'.

Also the truck doesn't have a recever hitch I was thinking I could get one from the junkyard. What years would be compatible? Would one from a F350 work? F150?

Thanks for any help you can give.

 

[79jasper]

For a receiver, just get a new one...
Sure, it'll tow it. Just slow as hades.

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[gandalf]

Will it tow your Airstream? Yes, with patience. You won't be breaking any land speed records. However, before I towed with it I'd be absolutely sure that the cooling system is perfect. I'd also be sure about stopping. These old Fords did not have the best of brakes. Put in the best pads and shoes you can, and be sure the rear shoes are properly adjusted. Never rely on Ford's "automatic adjuster". Is it automatic transmission, a C-6? For towing I'd want a 4:10 rear axle.

I'd advise your initial tow be on lesser hills. See how it behaves. I would suggest that you do not try Kaiser Pass on you first outing with the trailer.

Finally, I'd get some temperature gauges, a coolant temp and a pyrometer. Those two may well safe your engine, especially the pyrometer.

 

[Goldenarrow]

For a receiver, just get a new one...

Any reason why? Seams like a used one should work just fine and it would save a hundred bucks or so. Not really something that wears out and stuff doesent rust here.

Will it tow your Airstream? Yes, with patience. You won't be breaking any land speed records. However, before I towed with it I'd be absolutely sure that the cooling system is perfect. I'd also be sure about stopping. These old Fords did not have the best of brakes. Put in the best pads and shoes you can, and be sure the rear shoes are properly adjusted. Never rely on Ford's "automatic adjuster". Is it automatic transmission, a C-6? For towing I'd want a 4:10 rear axle.

I'd advise your initial tow be on lesser hills. See how it behaves. I would suggest that you do not try Kaiser Pass on you first outing with the trailer.

Finally, I'd get some temperature gauges, a coolant temp and a pyrometer. Those two may well safe your engine, especially the pyrometer.

Yeah gages are a good idea. I would make sure everything is up to ***** before towing.

It is an automatic not sure what the gear ratio is.

The trailer has breaks so I have that going for me.

I will look up the weight of the trailer.

 

[Goldenarrow]

I just looked at the trailers owners manual. The trailer is actuly a 23' not a 25' and the G.V.W.R. of the trailer is 4800 lbs.

 

[79jasper]

Well, if you do get a used one, sand blast it and inspect it closely.

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[chillman88]

I think I paid $175ish for my hitch. 17k trailer weight rating 2500lbs tounge rating and peace of mind.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AFVRF8Y?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Nothing wrong with a used unit as long as its in GOOD shape and installed with new proper hardware. It's your truck. The peice of mind was worth it for me.

F150-F350 frames should be the same as far as the hitch goes as long as it's not a cab and chassis model.

It'll pull it all day, but you're going to want to get a turbo on it for sure.

 

[towcat]

welcome to the site.
tractor supply has a reciever hitch for our trucks for $99 iirc. it's been a year since i've been in a TSC.
second, you will be on the hook for 3 years of reg including back fees. it used to be much more. i've seen some vehicles stay in the system for 30 years. how it works is the reg fees triple for three years out, double for two years out and current year.
that "free" truck isn't so "free" after all is it? :O

 

[IDIBRONCO]

you will be on the hook for 3 years of reg including back fees. it used to be much more. i've seen some vehicles stay in the system for 30 years. how it works is the reg fees triple for three years out, double for two years out and current year.
that "free" truck isn't so "free" after all is it? :O

The last I knew, at least here in Kansas, you weren't responsible to pay back taxes for a vehicle that you didn't own when the taxes weren't being paid. That's making you pay taxes on something that you didn't own. Of course California may not see it the same way. As for the automatic transmission, if it has an overdrive, then it's an E4OD, if not, it's a C6. I'm not saying that it wasn't an option, but I don't remember seeing a C6 in a truck newer than a 1989. And then the ignition switch. I'm glad that was a simple fix.

 

[Goldenarrow]

The last I knew, at least here in Kansas, you weren't responsible to pay back taxes for a vehicle that you didn't own when the taxes weren't being paid. That's making you pay taxes on something that you didn't own. Of course California may not see it the same way. As for the automatic transmission, if it has an overdrive, then it's an E4OD, if not, it's a C6. I'm not saying that it wasn't an option, but I don't remember seeing a C6 in a truck newer than a 1989. And then the ignition switch. I'm glad that was a simple fix.

California doesn't see it the same way. They will charge you for anything they can. But I have read that there you can sometimes get them to lower the fees if you get the right person at the DMV.

 

[Goldenarrow]

that "free" truck isn't so "free" after all is it? :O

Yeah there is no such thing as a free lunch. The only way it would really be free is if I used it for parts. I guess I could look for one with a blown engine and up to date registration and see if that would be cheaper. Of course anyhing you don't have to smog is pretty much priceless here in California.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

California doesn't see it the same way. They will charge you for anything they can. But I have read that there you can sometimes get them to lower the fees if you get the right person at the DMV.

I'm not surprised. It's called "Commiefornia" for a DAMN good reason!

 

[nostrokes]

Welcome to the forum..

Buy a new hitch.. it will come with all the proper hardware and give you piece of mind dont skimp out on something like that, lots of liability if something goes wrong. There's no good way to tell the integrity of a used one, and you'll never know if it was in an accident ie hit in the rear, trailer flipped and shock loaded it ect.. It's actually against DOT regs here to sell a hitch that has been in an accident and a smart junk yard wouldn't sell it to you either way.

If you could post some pics plenty of members here can give you good info and personal experiences with your setup. A pic of the door tag would help id axles and such. Pic of the dash or underside could tell what trans if there.

Like said before it will tow, but don't expect to win any taxes or get anywhere fast...

 

[Goldenarrow]

Welcome to the forum..

Buy a new hitch.. it will come with all the proper hardware and give you piece of mind dont skimp out on something like that, lots of liability if something goes wrong. There's no good way to tell the integrity of a used one, and you'll never know if it was in an accident ie hit in the rear, trailer flipped and shock loaded it ect.. It's actually against DOT regs here to sell a hitch that has been in an accident and a smart junk yard wouldn't sell it to you either way.

If you could post some pics plenty of members here can give you good info and personal experiences with your setup. A pic of the door tag would help id axles and such. Pic of the dash or underside could tell what trans if there.

Like said before it will tow, but don't expect to win any taxes or get anywhere fast...

Transmission has overdrive. There is a button on the dash to turn it off.

How slow are we talking about? Speed limit is 55 for towing in California. I assume it will do at least that on the flats. What am I looking at In the mountains I don't want to going 15 or 20 up a grade.

I appreciate your concern about the hitch. If i can't find a good one I may buy new. Think about it this way though if you bought a used truck would you imeadlatly replace the hitch on it? If not how is that different than buying a used hitch? I would make sure to use all new grade 8 hardware.

 

[Goldenarrow]

The axle code on the door sticker is 39. According to the FAQ that means it's a 3.55.
Transmisson code E.