farriswheel
Full Access Member
is this one any count?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-52...c0.m245&_trkparms=65:12|39:1|72:1171|240:1318
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-52...c0.m245&_trkparms=65:12|39:1|72:1171|240:1318
I'd get one that maxes out at 1300, but they don't make one that I've seen.
My needle can easily put 1300 in the rear-view mirror on these steep KY hills; 1350 is not at all un-common....
...
When American Locomotive Company built the first turbo-charged diesel locomotive engines, they had to recall them and replace the pistons with iron-capped pistons; why can't we do the same ??
Appearantly iron capping doesn't really help that much.
My needle can easily put 1300 in the rear-view mirror on these steep KY hills; 1350 is not at all un-common.
I start paying close attention anywhere above 1200 and try to keep those 1300+ bursts of as short a duration as possible.
PYROMETERS
Number one priority when I buy a pyrometer is to read the instructions and COUNT the wires.
You ONLY want one two-wire cable that connects to the K-probe itself, and the only other wires necessary are the light and it's ground.
I will not buy, nor will I trust, any pyrometer that requires a HOT and GROUND to function; I read and hear of nothing but constant problems from those types of gauges.
In a properly built pyrometer, the HEAT on the tip of the probe generates a current that moves the needle; it should not require the battery even be in the truck.
Another very important observation to make when examining a pyrometer is to always remember that a pyrometer is nothing more than a remote thermometer, just like the indoor/outdoor one you have in the kitchen window, except it can read much higher temperatures.
If the thermocouple/PROBE is not connected, the needle had BETTER be resting at the bottom of it's scale, or just below that; if it is laying there on the counter and the needle is pointing at 375*, it isn't going to magically fix itself and read correctly on your engine.
If the thermocouple is connected to the gauge, the needle had BETTER be pointing at the current air-temperature; if it is 88* and the pyro is reading 450*, then it is a junk pyro.
Remember, you DO NOT WANT a pyrometer that requires any connection to the trucks electrical system to function; a pyrometer should work as a stand-alone gauge.
Most of my pyrometers are ISSPRO and I trust them.