mexicanjoe
Full Access Member
Well I decided that this week end I would try to install a fuel line return kit in my '89 since it mimics a VW bug..... It marks its territory! Anybody got any hints, or things to look out for? Thanks
gonna try my hand at return line repair
- Thread starter mexicanjoe
- Start date
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
Make sure when you install the caps,you carefully seat them,and don't get impatient or they might crack.Don't use worm style hose clamps even if someone used them on your truck already, since they will overtighten and crush the caps.Lubricate the O-rings with a decent amount of diesel after installing them.Other then those things,it is very straightforward.
Rock
Rock
bilbo
Full Access Member
I just did mine last Friday and will add to check for mold flash on the bottom of the caps. Mine had flash there that looked like it could damage the o-rings while installing them. I used a utility knife and trimmed it off.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
I like to lube up o-rings with transmission assembly lube. It’s a very thick waxy grease that melts away quickly once things are up and running. I’ve never cut an o-ring using it (knock on wood). Works good on oil coolers too. I bought a tub when I rebuilt my first transmission about 12 years ago and still have half of it left.
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Stu Bailey
Full Access Member
As others have said it’s pretty straight forward. I am new to diesels and these trucks and have done the return lines twice with the help of this site and other interwebs sites. I’d recommend spending the extra cash and buying Viton O-rings in your return kit. I believe there are a couple guys on here who sell quality stuff. Lube the O-rings up and look for the “click” when smashing down the plastic cap. A nice hook tool is handy for sliding the old O-ring off and helping slide new ones on. Of course, when sliding new ones on you gotta be careful.
I laid the lines out on a table and assembled them beforehand so I could just place them on the engine and snap-snap-snap, made it easier for me. A 5/8” crowfoot flare nut helps with getting some of the aft most line nuts off. If you run into trouble just post!
I laid the lines out on a table and assembled them beforehand so I could just place them on the engine and snap-snap-snap, made it easier for me. A 5/8” crowfoot flare nut helps with getting some of the aft most line nuts off. If you run into trouble just post!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I don't recommend using any tool to install the new ones. I'm always afraid of nicking an o-ring and having it leak so I only install them by hand.
I used Dollar Tree petroleum jelly for the O-rings on both my IDIs a few years apart with great success. You can't use too much, the more the better. Use it for installing the o-rings on the injector and put some inside the plastic caps before installing them over the o-rings.
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https://russrepair.com/
My kits come with lube, olives and viton orings, and have no mold flash as yet.
My kits come with lube, olives and viton orings, and have no mold flash as yet.
Install top O-ring first and roll lower O-ring over the top one.
TNBrett
Full Access Member
That’s a good tip, and probably not obvious to a lot of folks.
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homelessduck
Full Access Member
@typ4 's kit comes with lube. It is by far the best lube I have ever used on these. The caps slipped on beautifully!
Stu Bailey
Full Access Member
Shoot, that's probably the reason I have a leak right now. The pick could have nicked at one during the install. I have to admit though, having the snap on pick was really nice getting the old ones off and then ringing the new ones on. Made things go quick. But yes, the hook pick does pose a significant risk.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
I always use two pairs of tiny needle nose pliers to take the O-rings off,then slip the new ones on by hand.It's risky business alright.
Rock
Rock
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
I use the same style of pick as Stu does to remove them. Sometimes, if they don't break, those little suckers can go flying quite a ways.
jericho
Registered User
To slide new ones on trouble free, take a spare piece of 1/2 inch copper plumbing pipe with a clean pipe cutter edge. 6 inches is fine.
Now rub the edge with sand paper starting at about 120 grit go to 220 grit to relieve the sharp edge. If you have a buffer, buff the edge with some polishing compound till it shines.
Now just slide 2 lubed o-rings on the pipe, then hold the pipe firmly on the top of the injector sliding the first one on to the top groove, then the next one will slide right over the first to the next groove. Be sure to lube everything up first. Vasoline works fine.
This now will become the easiest part of the job.
Just keep the pipe perfectly "vertical " aligned to the injector, snugged up to the end so the ring lands on the thicker part.
It'll take less time to install all of them than it took for me to write this.
Now after you assemble your caps and lines to snap on the injectors, if you're having trouble getting them to snap on you might try a 1/2 inch pipe nipple ( brass or steel) with a clean flat edge held firmly over the cap aligned squarely to the injector, and gently tap the nipple with a hammer. The cap should pop right on.
Just be careful to align it squarely. This method works well for me. Good luck.
Now rub the edge with sand paper starting at about 120 grit go to 220 grit to relieve the sharp edge. If you have a buffer, buff the edge with some polishing compound till it shines.
Now just slide 2 lubed o-rings on the pipe, then hold the pipe firmly on the top of the injector sliding the first one on to the top groove, then the next one will slide right over the first to the next groove. Be sure to lube everything up first. Vasoline works fine.
This now will become the easiest part of the job.
Just keep the pipe perfectly "vertical " aligned to the injector, snugged up to the end so the ring lands on the thicker part.
It'll take less time to install all of them than it took for me to write this.
Now after you assemble your caps and lines to snap on the injectors, if you're having trouble getting them to snap on you might try a 1/2 inch pipe nipple ( brass or steel) with a clean flat edge held firmly over the cap aligned squarely to the injector, and gently tap the nipple with a hammer. The cap should pop right on.
Just be careful to align it squarely. This method works well for me. Good luck.
