Glow plugs

[Austin86250]

double triple checked you hooked it up correctly if you haven't yet

 

[Nero]

The wts light signal comes off of the single weather pack connector. If it's not plugged in, or loose, you won't have a wts light too.

 

[WhistlinDiesel]

I’ve double checking it 10 times lol that’s why I’m so confused about it all. Nero- are you talking about the blue wire that goes directly to the WTS lamp?

 

[Cubey]

I’ll check when I get home, but they definitely aren’t working. It takes a bit to start still. Also right before I replaced the plugs when I turned the key on the WTS would blink on then off and not come back on. It wouldn’t always do it when I turned the key either so idk

Try tapping the relay that sits on top of the controller with something non-conductive (wood or plastic) and see if that helps. Maybe you got one with a bad relay that is already failing. If that goes bad, WTS won't light up and the plugs won't fire. The relay is the brown piece in the pic above, with the black piece on the bottom being the controller.

 

[Nero]

I’ve double checking it 10 times lol that’s why I’m so confused about it all. Nero- are you talking about the blue wire that goes directly to the WTS lamp?

Yes the blue wire is for the WTS lamp. If it does not work, it does not affect the functionality of the glow plugs themselves. I would check the yellow main power wires first. Make sure you have 12v at the main stud, and make sure the connector that sits near the passenger side valve cover, that the pins haven't melted the connector casing and corrode.

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[Cubey]

and make sure the connector that sits near the passenger side valve cover, that the pins haven't melted the connector casing and corrode.

This is the connection Nero is referring to. Pic of the one on my F250, in good condition. The bigger yellow wires are for the glow plugs themselves.

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[WhistlinDiesel]

I’ve double checking it 10 times lol that’s why I’m so confused

 

[WhistlinDiesel]

Okay I’ll check that connector. Thank you

 

[Nero]

On older chassis it might be a black connector.

 

[IDIDIDIhoDhoDhoDO]

Have you got a current clamp? If you do or can borrow one then put it around one of the fusible linked power wires. Even though there are two power wires, clamp the current clamp only around one wire. Current clamps can only test one conductor at a time. Then have someone turn the key to cycle the glow plugs and see what current you measure. Even though there are two power wires and you are only measuring one you should still measure above 100 amps, at least initially.

Then you should also check the 8 wires that go to each individual glow plug with the clamp. You likely will not be able to get a current clamp around each and every one, there is not enough room around all of them. But at least a few you should be able to. When the glow plugs are cycled you should be able to read 30 amps or more on each of those wires, at least initially.

This test will at least tell you if you are getting zero current and have a system that is dead for some reason or if the system is somewhat working but the current is too low, indicating too high resistance somewhere.

 

[Joezam]

The controller you need to replace is under the alternator, behind water outlet.

 

[WhistlinDiesel]

I have a hot stick so I’ll use that opposed to a clamp and check. Also does anyone know any good injectors? I’d say it’s time for new ones

 

[Nero]

There's a few reputable vendors here that sell injectors, classic diesel designs, russrepair.com to name a few.

 

[WhistlinDiesel]

Thank you!

 

[Big Bart]

I replaced this

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Two thoughts.

1) Never assume that a new or rebuilt part is good. That bites members on this site weekly. Maybe the controller/solenoid is bad out of the box.
2) Just because you put néw connectors on your old glow plug wiring harnesses does not mean you do not have a resistance issue the controller is sensing. My suggestion is to replace them with ones from Classic Diesel Design.
3) I would test the following.
a) The big terminal without the shunt that has the two wires is getting +12v from the battery and does not dip below +10v with the glow plugs on.
b) If you ground the white wire in your pic above with the ignition switch on, the relay clicks and now both big posts have +10-12v till you cut the ground. That if you do so for 12 seconds the truck starts right up. If not your small post with the red wire is not getting power from the ignition switch. Or your relay part of the controller is bad.

If you like private message me with your number, I can help double check your install and help diagnose it.