I agree with Wes. If the starting aid system is in good shape, then the controller should come on for a period (time dependent on temperature), then start to click to maintain the temperature of the plugs until the engine is started.
The controller measures resistance as a function of current.
If Plugs are failed open, then the controller may never "Click".
If Plugs are failed shorted, then the controller may click after a very short time or in some cases immediately.
The same can be said for the wiring from the controller to the plugs.
If the connectors are bad, this can lead to the controller never "clicking" and some plugs never heating properly.
If the wiring is frayed and gets shorted to ground then we can see the same thing as a shorted plug.
Shorted plugs or Shorted Wiring are somewhat easier to diagnose.
Immediately after starting the system should "Post Glow" to clear up white smoke. If the Dash Voltage Gauge bounces from a low "Pegged" position to "Normal" somewhat rapidly, this may indicate a short somewhere in the system.
If the Voltage Gauge toggles from between the bottom line and the "N" in "Normal", up to the middle of "Normal", then the system likely is working fine.
All of this assumes that the supporting systems (Alternator, Batteries) are functioning correctly.
There is another glow plug failure mode that can lead to hard starting, I've termed as Midbed Glow. I did a writeup many years ago on another forum explaining my findings. I will see if I can recreate that here.