Glow plug information

[phazertwo]

So something is very wrong with my GP system. I have been through the in's and out's of it a few times, and am sick of this crap system. I am trying to build something like the PSD's have. Measure engine temp, than apply glow plugs as needed. However my plan hit a solid stump when I realized that PSD GP's stay on for a LONG ASS TIME! I would free burning up my GPs if I cycled them nearly as long as my buddys PSD does.

Anyway, my system is crap, and my truck won't start on a 40* day, so I KNOW my GP run time is WAY WAY off.

I need to know how long your plugs stay on for what ambient temperature. IE Wait to start light is on for 15 seconds at 21* out side temp.

So far I have been going off of this, which says that I should never hold my plugs past 30 seconds.

Anyway, if someone could get a couple of values for me for WTS light time, that would be awesome!

Thanks

PZ

 

[RANOVRU]

Mine stays on for about 5sec during the so far warm months (havent had it through a winter yet).

Never had a problem whatsoever starting but everyone here tells me somethings wrong with my system (should stay on at least double that) so IDK if Im the one to go by.

 

[phazertwo]

Mine stays on for about 5sec during the so far warm months (havent had it through a winter yet).

Never had a problem whatsoever starting but everyone here tells me somethings wrong with my system (should stay on at least double that) so IDK if Im the one to go by.

That's about what my truck has done in the past, and it has always started great! However lately the light stays on for the same amount of time, but it starts like hell. Also, it seems as though the GPs are working since the volt meter takes a HUGH dive while the WTS light is on.

PZ

 

[phazertwo]

Now that we are seeing colder temps, anyone have some updated info?

PZ

 

[Black dawg]

how much voltage do you have to the plugs?

 

[wmoguy]

just ditch the GPs all together and go w/ a ether injection setup.

 

[Black dawg]

just ditch the GPs all together and go w/ a ether injection setup.

that aint no ****.

 

[phazertwo]

how much voltage do you have to the plugs?

Voltage is good. Tested it a few times.

just ditch the GPs all together and go w/ a ether injection setup.

I considered this. However, testing it in temps below 20*, and elevations above 7k the truck still has LOTS of trouble (embarrassing amounts) starting. Where as before when the GP's worked great, I NEVER had trouble starting even well below zero at 9k feet.

While not enough to convince me not to do it, ether injection will wash down the cylinder walls. I know that you can get ether that has "upper cylinder lube" but you can still use to clean bearings, which means it washes down the walls. Kinda like the difference between ULSD, and old school #2 with sulfur. The truck runs on it, but the injection system doesn't last as long.



Currently I am considering a complete new engine harness for my truck, completely controlled by a custom programed micro processor. It will control the FSS, advance solenoid, high idle solenoid, and GP timing. Considering tying it into the Pyrometer so that it will automatically shut the truck down when the EGTs are low enough to ensure no oil will cook inside the turbo. Should be WAY WAY more reliable than the current GP system (and make it last longer), and shouldn't lower the overall reliability of the truck. I would actually say that it would increase it.

I am pretty sure I can pull this off for less than $100

PZ

 

[wmoguy]

Voltages is good. Tested it a few times.



I considered this. However, testing it in temps below 20*, and elevations above 7k the truck still has LOTS of trouble starting. Where as before when I the GP's worked great, I NEVER had trouble starting even well below zero at 9k feet.

While not enough to convince me not to do it, ether injection will wash down the cylinder walls. I know that you can get ether that has "upper cylinder lube" but you can still use to clean bearings, which means it washes down the walls. Kinda like the difference between ULSD, and old school #2 with sulfur. The truck runs on it, but the injection system doesn't last as long.



Currently I am considering a complete new engine harness for my truck, completely controlled by a custom programed micro processor. It will control the FSS, advance solenoid, high idle solenoid, and GP timing. Considering tying it into the Pyrometer so that it will automatically shut the truck down when the EGTs are low enough to ensure no oil will cook inside the turbo. Should be WAY WAY more reliable than the current GP system (and make it last longer), and shouldn't lower the overall reliability of the truck. I would actually say that it would increase it.

I am pretty sure I can pull this off for less than $100

PZ

You'll still need ether for starting this winter if you are going up sledding. Just got back from my elk huntin trip. I did ok unplugged down to low teens provided I cycled the GP's at least 3x in a row When it hit single digits it was ether time, or keep running the starter until it fried or my battery went dead. This was starting on plain diesel (not WMO blend) granted mine sees a little more fuel than yours does, but probably not a significant difference in performance for cold starts. Us high altitude guys are ******* these motors, altitude + cold + old school diesel motors= Ether required.

 

[Black dawg]

I asked about voltage because it has alot to do with glow times.

 

[phazertwo]

You'll still need ether for starting this winter if you are going up sledding. Just got back from my elk huntin trip. I did ok unplugged down to low teens provided I cycled the GP's at least 3x in a row When it hit single digits it was ether time, or keep running the starter until it fried or my battery went dead. This was starting on plain diesel (not WMO blend) granted mine sees a little more fuel than yours does, but probably not a significant difference in performance for cold starts. Us high altitude guys are ******* these motors, altitude + cold + old school diesel motors= Ether required.

hmmm, I started mine a few times after sitting on the top of Rabbit ears below zero. Started a touch hard, but wasn't an issues.

Also, my dad is selling his sleds. either one would be a good one for you! http://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/2688825681.html

PZ

 

[Black dawg]

with my truck and factory wiring, about 7 volts at plugs, 15-16 sec glow.
same truck with heavy cable to gpc and 9.5-10 volts at plugs 10-12 sec.

 

[phazertwo]

with my truck and factory wiring, about 7 volts at plugs, 15-16 sec glow.
same truck with heavy cable to gpc and 9.5-10 volts at plugs 10-12 sec.

That makes sense because its heating the plugs to a certain temp, not for a fixed time. As the plug heats up the resistance changes, and the controller just measures that. This is perfect information, thank you VERY much!

PZ

 

[SLC97SR5]

We had a few low teen mornings here and the WTS light illuminates for 14 seconds. This is after a 10-12 hour cold soak. My beru plugs are a year old and even with 3 dead plugs it always eventually started.

During the summer months the light will glow for 3-5 seconds on the first start of the day, succesive starts it only flickers momentarily.

Is your starter spinning fast enough?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

During the summer months the light will glow for 3-5 seconds on the first start of the day, succesive starts it only flickers momentarily.

so what you are saying is that when the engine is warm the glow plugs don't come on? or at least only for a second or two.