Fuel Selector Valve

[12pilgrim]

Here's the inside of my FSV that stopped working.. looks like the left side little "contact" in the closeup pic is burnt up?

 

[Clb]

Try some deoxit and a soft brass toothbrush, it looks like either heat or corrosion on my fone...
Lookup oldbulls tech 101

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Is that OEM? The light plastic makes me think aftermarket. Hard to say what the failure is there, but I'd also try to clean it up and see what's under the black stuff, if it burned up the track it's an easy solder but could be the (diode?) blowing as well. Diode would make sense as it's a switching unit.

 

[franklin2]

Being white in color, it does look like the China knock-off valve. Pollack made the original valve for Ford. Thing of it is, the China valve is a plug and play valve(from what I have heard) while the Pollack valve offered at the autoparts stores is just like the original valve made by the original company, but it is not plug and play.

Last time I looked, a plug and play Pollack valve was very expensive, if you can even get them.

 

[Old Goat]

Right, the China one (maybe all of them) is a plug and play.
Looks like the original Ford one.
Don`t know why some one would buy the ****** one, and then need to cut/splice wires, and cut the push on fuel lines, and then splice in rubber hose and clamps.

Over on FTE, member "Number Dummy" a retired parts guy, said
the FSV was a money maker for Ford and was a P O S from the start.

I bought one of the China one`s a few years back, with in the year got stuck between tanks. That`s when I deep 6`d it, and swapped in the rear tank for a 38, and run it to the engine and back.
No more problems.

Edit: P o l a c k is another dirty word

Goat

 

[Cubey]

The early "hose clamp on hose" FSV is not plug and play. The pigtail must be changed and the FSV gets mounted upside down with new holes drilled in the frame to mount it.

The later (87+ I think?) with the quick release lines are available plug and play.

 

[12pilgrim]

It was the Chinese special:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08B3VCZVG/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_8?smid=A29CJJ2HZL47LM&psc=1

Lasted about 4yrs. I did have to splice in a new pigtail for it to work, it really hurts cutting the factory wiring.

 

[Old Goat]

Your 86 is like my 86 with the smaller whitish Plug?
Had to buy the newer style plug, Forgot about that.
Standard S-544
I did cut and splice, but solder`d on Weather Pak connectors.
Idea was if I could only find a Po lack FSV with the round pins,
I could solder on a Weather Pak connector to it, and would sort of be plug and play. I would have 2 connectors depending which ever FSV I bought.

I did some searching on the S-544 on Google, this plug varies from $25 - $35 or so. But has been used of other model/year Fords under different part #`s. Seen it as high as $67, crazy pricing.


Goat

 

[david85]

I'm in the process of trying to rebuild an original selector valve. Yes, I'm really that stubborn.

I honestly don't see much wrong with the original design. Simple switches and no electronics, except for a couple of diodes. So far I've been able to find a motor on amazon that's compatible, and the rest of the parts on McMaster Carr: stainless steel C-clips to replace the rusted ones, and new viton O-rings for the valves. The original valve stems, washers and springs are stainless steel, so generally won't fail. The O-Rings appear to be viton and none showed signs of hardening. The linear mechanism is plastic and brass with some small steel leaf springs as part of the motor torque limiter. The valve holders are some kind of fuel resistant plastic. The rubber gasket seems to last ok in a diesel application but harden when exposed to gasoline after 40 years. The plastic case showed no signs of deterioration.

The selector valve in my truck failed after about 36 years but I was able to repair it, so I can't complain. And I use the selector valve often. The one I have on my bench right now came out of a gasser f250 of the same year, and will become a spare when finished. If there is officially a difference between the gas or diesel application, I couldn't see one.

If the photos shown above are from an aftermarket valve assembly, it looks to be a fairly faithful reproduction.