Fuel selector plug voltages

[Ronw435]

Cubey, I took the switch apart again to show you what I'm talking about. I check for continuity between the lugs in the first pic. None connect together internally. So in the first pic on the left the red wire would be on the upper right lug, the orange, brn/w , black are on the other side of the switch. When I turn the ign on the red is the only one with power. What my feeble brain can not figure out is how the power gets to the FSV. There is a yellow/gry, yellow/white. blue with yellow strip, red, and brown wire in the plug that connects to the FSV. Not necessarily in that order. But they don't appear to have ever been screwed with. When the key is turned on the red wire at the FSV does not have power there is intermittent voltage at the blue wire but it is pulsing.
In your second drawing that you were talking about it shows the power (red)number 2 goes to either the orange (3) or brown wire (1) which I can not figure out how number 2 gets power to either 3 or 1. If it was a DPDT I could understand how but with this original switch it boggles my mind. I can not figure out it can get there.
Does any of this make sense?

Thanks

 

[Cubey]

Cubey, I appreciate your patients with me. I am sending a poor drawing, lol, of how the switch is on the inside. There are two copper bars that are meant to connect two terminals together at the same time. The switch moves a plastic block that has the bars on it with springs to keep it connected. The bars (contact surfaces) only go up and down. The red wire is connected to one side the orange, brn, and black at on the other side. I cannot see any way the red wire can come into contact with any other terminal. They do not cross over like the DPDT switch indicates. I hope the diagram i drew makes sense.

It still switches the polarity. As the diagram shows.

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[Cubey]

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Wire #4 (red) is always positive, it even says it goes to fuse #15. Wire #3 (black) is always ground, shows going to the ground symbol. The switch reverse the outputs on wires #1 and #2 when you change the switch position.

In one position, both red lines connect as shown. In the other position, both green lines connect as shown. That switches the polarity on wires #1 (Org-Red) and #2 (Brn-Wht). Actually your wire colors might vary if I lifted that diagram from my Econoline book. But the wiring should be similar. But at the switch, #4 is always + and #3 is always -. The polarity on #1 and #2 will depend on which way the switch is set.


EDIT: Yes that diagram is from my 88 ad older Econoline book, so it might not apply fully to your vehicle.

 

[Cubey]

If this applies more to your vehicle, then #2 is always + and #5 is always -

#1 and #3 get switched around in the switch. #1 and #3 lead to the FSV.

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[Ronw435]

Well if finally broke down and bought the Standard Fuel Selector valve with the switch and plug. The mounting bracket was at a 45 degree angle which did not allow it to be bolted up to the frame. Why it was at a 45 is beyond me. But.....its in and working and I am pulling fuel from the back and the front now........ I ended up mounting it with heavy zip strips through the original mounting holes. For as much as I use it it should be good to go. Just use it to plow our road in the winter and maybe haul wood from the top of the mountain. Occasionally I haul road base for our road. But the yard is only about 10 miles away. I put a ton of gravel in the back and it only squats about 3-4 inches. Of course when it is empty it rides like it has concrete tires and rigid mounted springs....lol.

But happy to have it back on the road.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[Cubey]

The mounting bracket was at a 45 degree angle which did not allow it to be bolted up to the frame. Why it was at a 45 is beyond me. But.....its in and working and I am pulling fuel from the back and the front now........ I ended up mounting it with heavy zip strips through the original mounting holes.

The older style black one that uses hose clamps, the aftermarket ones are made with the connections backwards, so I had to drill new holes and mount it upside down. Works fine that way though.

 

[12pilgrim]

I just wanted to comment and say how stupid the fuel selector valve is. I have 600mi on my replacement and now it won't pull from the rear tank anymore. I guess I'll buy another and take a diesel bath.

 

[Brian VT]

Where did you get yours? If I get around to replacing mine I was thinking I'd grab this one.
I plan to ask about a warranty first though.

Ford Fuel Tank Selector Valve | Fits 6.9, 7.3, 6.0, 6.4, & 6.7 Diesels

This 6-port fuel tank selector valve fits Ford diesels from 1985 - 2016. Order a brand new exact-fit fuel tank selector valve from Accurate Diesel today!

www.accuratediesel.com

 

[12pilgrim]

Where did you get yours? If I get around to replacing mine I was thinking I'd grab this one.
I plan to ask about a warranty first though.

Ford Fuel Tank Selector Valve | Fits 6.9, 7.3, 6.0, 6.4, & 6.7 Diesels

This 6-port fuel tank selector valve fits Ford diesels from 1985 - 2016. Order a brand new exact-fit fuel tank selector valve from Accurate Diesel today!

www.accuratediesel.com

I believe the one in your link is the same as this below that is half the price. This is the FSV that I used and will again (i didnt have filters between the fuel tanks and FSV, maybe the problem):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08B3VCZVG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A29CJJ2HZL47LM&psc=1

 

[Brian VT]

I believe the one in your link is the same as this below that is half the price. This is the FSV that I used and will again (i didnt have filters between the fuel tanks and FSV, maybe the problem):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08B3VCZVG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A29CJJ2HZL47LM&psc=1

Are they "plug-n-play"?
How do you plan to introduce filters before the FSV?

 

[12pilgrim]

Are they "plug-n-play"?
How do you plan to introduce filters before the FSV?

The electrical connector worked. Previous owner used rubber hoses on front tank, so just hose clamped them on the new FSV, I'll splice it and add the below in line filter. However the rear tank still has the original blue and grey (nylon/vinyl?) fuel lines. Not sure, guess I'll try to splice a filter in the blue source line and maybe run rubber from it up to the FSV?

GKI GF69M 3/8" Metal Inline Gas/Fuel Filter fits G15 G61P 33033 BF836 G3/8 3033 | eBay

BALDWIN BF836. WGB WGF-100-2. WARNER SWASEY H26336. WARNER SWASEY 76026336. WARNER G3/8. WAKO INDUSTRIAL LF-75K. WAKO INDUSTRIAL LF-31K. VALVOLINE G3/8.

www.ebay.com

 

[Brian VT]

I'd be tempted to use clear-bodied filters so you can see what's in there?

 

[12pilgrim]

I'd be tempted to put clear-bodied ones in so you can see what's in there?

I was thinking that too but couldn't find any clear ones I felt confident enough in for long term reliability. I figure I'll just replace these metal ones periodically as a maintenance item. I cleaned the rear tank out and know the front one is newer, new sending units in both. We'll see!

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I guess I'll buy another and take a diesel bath.

Here's a couple of hints to help minimize those baths.
1) you can take some o-rings from an oil cooler or something similar just as long as they fit inside the fuel lines (5/16" & 3/8"). As soon as you disconnect the fuel line(s), stick an o-ring inside them. That will at least slow the leak down to a drip, if not stop it entirely.
2) after you disconnect a fuel line, (especially a feed line), blow a SHORT burst of LOW PRESSURE air into the line to clear the fuel out of it. Before trying this, be sure to remove the fuel cape from your filler necks. This won't help a lot for the engine side of the selector valve, but there's relatively minimal fuel that can come out of those lines.

 

[12pilgrim]

Here's a couple of hints to help minimize those baths.
1) you can take some o-rings from an oil cooler or something similar just as long as they fit inside the fuel lines (5/16" & 3/8"). As soon as you disconnect the fuel line(s), stick an o-ring inside them. That will at least slow the leak down to a drip, if not stop it entirely.
2) after you disconnect a fuel line, (especially a feed line), blow a SHORT burst of LOW PRESSURE air into the line to clear the fuel out of it. Before trying this, be sure to remove the fuel cape from your filler necks. This won't help a lot for the engine side of the selector valve, but there's relatively minimal fuel that can come out of those lines.

Rear tank has original plastic fuel lines. To install an inline filter in it, would you splice into that original line or drop the (full) rear tank and run fuel rated hose up to the FSV?