Fuel filter changes?

themechanicalford

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Are there any changes that I should make to this fuel filter setup for ease of maintenance or better performance?

I have a small leak that just started from underneath (maybe the lower o-ring?) that I haven’t started to explore yet because I want to have a new filter in hand before I take anything apart. When I went to order the new filter it has options for sensor or no sensor. I assume this has the sensor? Should I go OEM, should I be deleting anything while I’m at this?

Thanks for the help!


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NeverHave-I-Ether

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I deleted the entire filter bracket and went with an after market fuel filter bracket for under the truck. I deleted mine because it's a specialty fuel filter and it's prone to air leaks. This is what I have:
 

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themechanicalford

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I deleted the entire filter bracket and went with an after market fuel filter bracket for under the truck. I deleted mine because it's a specialty fuel filter and it's prone to air leaks. This is what I have:
Oh wow, looks easy to work with but I live on the dirt roads in the woods and that would just get too easily gummed up under there. Are those just two of the same filters plumbed in-line?
 

Old Goat

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I believe this thread has the fix for your leak.



Goat.
 

NeverHave-I-Ether

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Oh wow, looks easy to work with but I live on the dirt roads in the woods and that would just get too easily gummed up under there. Are those just two of the same filters plumbed in-line?
Yes two of the same filters. I'm going to change the filter head though so I can run a 15 then 2 micron filters in a series for better filtration. It's not terrible and won't gum up. What do you think would gum up?

If you decide to stick to stock filter head, rather than trying to patch it up just get one of these: https://puredieselpower.com/ford/6.....3l-ford-idi-diesel-pdp-fuel-filter-head.html

I have not ordered one, but a friend did and strongly recommends it.
 

Big Bart

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Are there any changes that I should make to this fuel filter setup for ease of maintenance or better performance?

I have a small leak that just started from underneath (maybe the lower o-ring?) that I haven’t started to explore yet because I want to have a new filter in hand before I take anything apart. When I went to order the new filter it has options for sensor or no sensor. I assume this has the sensor? Should I go OEM, should I be deleting anything while I’m at this?

Thanks for the help!


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You may have a leak at the bottom cap too but it looks like the fuel heater which is that red wire with the black cap going into the top of the fuel filter bracket is also leaking. (Very common.). There are o-rings to fix the fuel heater leak. Many delete it and fill the hole. Mine started leaking recently so I plan to pull it, re-seal it, and reinstall it.

The bottom has a water sensor, should you get say a half cup of water in the filter the bottom sensor is supposed to turn on a light an the dash to warn you there is water in the fuel. They can leak too!

They make two kinds of filters.

1) The replacement where you screw a cap on the bottom of the filter and then screw the top of the onto the filter bracket. This is what you have. It can sense water in the fuel, thus “sensor” style.
2) Then they make them like a oil filter, just open at the top and screw on to the housing. Has fuel heater but no water in filter sensor.

You can use either. But I would suggest keeping the style you have on the truck which is with sensor. I would see if you can find a Motorcraft filter but if not Wix or Napa likely have a decent one too.
 

TNBrett

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Filters for the stock fuel filter location come in three styles.

The original open end design which requires the separate bowl.

The closed end design with a drain valve built in.

Then another closed end with a drain and a water sensor. The factory connector will hook to the sensor.

Wix #’s for example are 33217, 33417, and 33617 respectively. I know Donaldson and Baldwin do as well.
 

Big Bart

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Filters for the stock fuel filter location come in three styles.

The original open end design which requires the separate bowl.

The closed end design with a drain valve built in.

Then another closed end with a drain and a water sensor. The factory connector will hook to the sensor.

Wix #’s for example are 33217, 33417, and 33617 respectively. I know Donaldson and Baldwin do as well.


TNBrett on the 33617 do you use the water sensor out of the original filter base or does it require you to buy a different one?
 

TNBrett

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TNBrett on the 33617 do you use the water sensor out of the original filter base or does it require you to buy a different one?
https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=5017

Looks like you need to provide the sensor. I’m assuming it’s the same as original. I’ve never used them, I just knew they existed. I prefer the original style removable bowl, as it lets you inspect for contamination a little easier.
 

TNBrett

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https://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=5017

Looks like you need to provide the sensor. I’m assuming it’s the same as original. I’ve never used them, I just knew they existed. I prefer the original style removable bowl, as it lets you inspect for contamination a little easier.
RockAuto lists a WIF sensor as 7/6” x 1.30. We’ll, 1.30mm thread pitch would work out to about 20 TPI so I think the factory sensor should work, as wix says 7/16”-20 for the sensor. But RockAuto also mentions NPT for the sensor, so take that for what it’s worth.
 

IDIBRONCO

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TNBrett on the 33617 do you use the water sensor out of the original filter base or does it require you to buy a different one?

Looks like you need to provide the sensor. I’m assuming it’s the same as original.
The answer is yes. Just unscrew your sensor out if the sediment bowl and put it in the new one piece filter. The new filters come with a new o-ring to deal up the sensor. At least all of the ones that I've personally seen did.
 

raydav

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Pics 9&10 of this album are my Raycor filter; when it was new, clean and shiny, and much later.

I kept the "dirty filter switch".

The other common filter is for the trans.

 
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themechanicalford

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Yes two of the same filters. I'm going to change the filter head though so I can run a 15 then 2 micron filters in a series for better filtration. It's not terrible and won't gum up. What do you think would gum up?

If you decide to stick to stock filter head, rather than trying to patch it up just get one of these: https://puredieselpower.com/ford/6.....3l-ford-idi-diesel-pdp-fuel-filter-head.html

I have not ordered one, but a friend did and strongly recommends it.
Sorry, I am not getting my notifications for some reason. I just meant that the dirt and mud would gum up the housing and outside of the filters. Probably wouldn't be too difficult to squirt down before changing the filters though.

What is the benefit to that filter head that you linked? (Edit: Nevermind, I didn't read the description!). I might look into this after I decide if I am going to keep the heater or sensor. Thanks!
 
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themechanicalford

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You may have a leak at the bottom cap too but it looks like the fuel heater which is that red wire with the black cap going into the top of the fuel filter bracket is also leaking. (Very common.). There are o-rings to fix the fuel heater leak. Many delete it and fill the hole. Mine started leaking recently so I plan to pull it, re-seal it, and reinstall it.

The bottom has a water sensor, should you get say a half cup of water in the filter the bottom sensor is supposed to turn on a light an the dash to warn you there is water in the fuel. They can leak too!

They make two kinds of filters.

1) The replacement where you screw a cap on the bottom of the filter and then screw the top of the onto the filter bracket. This is what you have. It can sense water in the fuel, thus “sensor” style.
2) Then they make them like a oil filter, just open at the top and screw on to the housing. Has fuel heater but no water in filter sensor.

You can use either. But I would suggest keeping the style you have on the truck which is with sensor. I would see if you can find a Motorcraft filter but if not Wix or Napa likely have a decent one too.
Sorry, I wasn't getting my notifications. Is there a benefit of having that water sensor if I am going to be pretty vigilant about changing the filter? What are the odds that it even still works? If I do decide on the delete, what do I need to cap off or otherwise do to make it happen?

Thanks for all the help brother!
 

IDIBRONCO

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If I do decide on the delete, what do I need to cap off or otherwise do to make it happen?
Since the only delete that I saw Bart mention was for the fuel heater, I'll go with that one. You have to remove the filter head (not really but it's MUCH easier if you do), then unscrew the piece that the filter screws into. When that's gone, the rest will come apart. Then remove the heater, tap the hole with a 1/2" NPT tap, and install a plug. Put the rest back together and install your new filter. It sounds kind of complicated, but once you get started, it's fairly self explanatory. I don't know if you have to drill the heater hole bigger and I may have forgotten a thing or two, but as long as you know to remove the heater and install a 1/2" NPT plug, you'll figure out the rest pretty easily.
 
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