FSV tear down.

OLDBULL8

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Been quite a few discussions on FSV's lately (Fuel Selector Valve). Everyone likes pictures. Different years have different electrical circuits and connectors, but they are all basically the same. I'll try to explain each picture as best I can. If you have trouble with yours, don't be afraid to take it apart. Like fuel returning to the wrong tank.
First of all you have to drill the rivet crimp end just enough to free the rivet, use a 3/16" drill.

#1 Ford OEM FSV. There are several models and different connectors. All made by Pollak.

#2 Connector side.

#3 Tabs that hold upper and lower halve's together. When unsnapped it comes apart. The white substance you see is NOT a sealer. No sealing needed when going back together.

#4 Top half showing plungers blocking the lower ports, screwed all the way out. If you turn the screw all the way in to clear the lower ports, screw it back out until it stops, then back in 1-1/2 turns before re-assemble. You have to line up the flat on the bar with the flat on the motor shaft. Polish the single contact with a pencil eraser.

#5 Shows the triangle contact, polish it with a pencil eraser.

#6 Shows the motor, hard to see the flat on the shaft. Clean the contact bar with an eraser.

#7 Shows the motor and the contact bars for the triangle contact, also clean these. Notice the little guide bars on two sides to keep the contacts from turning. Be carefull when assembling the upper and lower, the contacts are spring loaded.

#8 Shows the #6 screw used in place of rivets, to re-assemble. Dip the screw in the all purpose cement, Fill the small hole where the rivet was drilled out with the glue, screw it together.

#9 The filters I installed on the suction (source) side. Yeah, one China, one Isreal. They will keep debris from getting in the FSV in the future. No fuel, see if there plugged.

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Clb

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Anyone see a possible fuel gauge issue like this???
My front tank quit reading (on E all the time) fsv clear ,changes tanks fine, returns fine.
I had it switching back and forth to see why the tank read empty(just filled it)....I can hear it move, and see flow in the pre filters, but one time both gauges went to E....
Now just the front one.
Could the fsv be the issue and not the sender????
 

riphip

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Could be the float is leaking and has fuel in it. If it is a brass float.

Rick
 

Clb

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They both worked, then 1 quit, then 1 time only both quit for 30 seconds... Then 1 went back to working, it aint a float in the rear tank,it now works, but quit during switching back and forth, then fixed itself, the front will sometimes climb to an 1\8th on occasion..
 

icanfixall

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my guess is the switching from front to rear tank causes this issue because the ftsv has the power flowing thru it when changing tanks.
 

chillman88

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Ok back from the dead
Anyone see a possible fuel gauge issue like this???
My front tank quit reading (on E all the time) fsv clear ,changes tanks fine, returns fine.
I had it switching back and forth to see why the tank read empty(just filled it)....I can hear it move, and see flow in the pre filters, but one time both gauges went to E....
Now just the front one.
Could the fsv be the issue and not the sender????

dvc01514-jpg.36439


There's your fuel gauge contacts inside the FSV. If you're thinking it might be the problem pull it apart and clean those contacts up and also the ones that ride against them. You could also test the contacts with a multimeter with it on the bench.
 
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Cubey

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Could be the float is leaking and has fuel in it. If it is a brass float.

Rick

7-8 years ago, I had a 78 Dodge 1 ton van that had no working fuel gauge. The 36 gallon tank senders are impossible to get, so I did my best to refurbish. The brass float had fallen off and the fuel pickup sock was seriously trashed. I replaced both with universal parts off ebay, and the gauge worked just good enough to avoid running out. It showed 3/4 tank when full, so at just above E, it was close to 1/4 tank.
 

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