Front Cover

[swampdigger]

If it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'm gonna reseal the front cover. Problem is, once I start the job, I don't have transportation until I finish the job.

I've got:

-Wrench for the fan
-Basic sockets and wrenches
-Couple tubes of RTV
-Thread tape
-Gasket remover spray
-Wire brush, emory cloth

Anything I didn't think of? Hopefully my oil consumption will be MUCH less after this!

 

[sle2115]

Brake clean!!! I don't start any job on or around the engine without at least a case of the stuff in the shop! Great to clean gasket surfaces etc.

Just in case, is your RTV oil proof? The standard blue is not, should say on the package though. All the Ultra permatex products are, gray is my fav.

 

[zigg]

I'm a little unclear what exactly you plan to reseal. Are you taking the front cover off the engine?

Are you talking about the injection pump cover, or the plate on the front of it, or the main front plate which is behind the water pump?

Zigg

 

[swampdigger]

Brake clean!!! I don't start any job on or around the engine without at least a case of the stuff in the shop! Great to clean gasket surfaces etc.


Just in case, is your RTV oil proof? The standard blue is not, should say on the package though. All the Ultra permatex products are, gray is my fav.

I couldn't agree with you more! The aerosol gasket remover stuff I have is pretty much brake clean. I got a big 'ole can of it. And I bought Ultra-Black RTV. Being a cheap *******, I've learned the hard way many times that the blue and orange silicones are JUNK.

Don: the main front plate, behind the water pump. It looks like the whole deal leaks, and I think you hit it on the head saying my fan is tossing it all over my motor. The person who sealed it up last used blue RTV, and did a crappy job at that. Looks like something I would have done a couple years ago

 

[zigg]

geoff

Oh,

crap,

I was afraid of that.

So, you want the good news, or the bad news?....

Good news is, it's not that bad of a job, and can be done. Bad news, is you're gonna need a bunch more stuff.

First, the water pump has to come off, 'cause a bunch of the bolts that hold the water pump on also hold the plate on.

Second, in order to remove the plate, you're gonna need to pull off the harmonic balancer from the crank. Bolt is 15/16ths and torqued to about 150 ft.lbs. You'll need a big wrench, and a sturdy puller. That means that since you got it off, you'd be a fool to put it back on without changing the front main seal for the crank.(It's mounted on the front plate.)

You'll need to pull off the injection pump, and the injection pump cover. The reason for this, is that the injection pump cover mounts and seals down onto the front plate at the top, so to get the plate off, you'll have to have the inj. pump cover off.

Behind the front plate, there's 2 gaskets which seal against the front of the block. You'll need those. You'll need a new water pump gasket(and if it were me, and I was going this far into it, I'd be putting a new water pump on there too, since they're only good for 60-80,000mi or so.

Expect or be prepared to figure out how to seal the oilpan to the bottom of the front plate again. Last time I did mine, I had the engine upside down on a stand, and the gasket for the oilpan goes on the block first, and then you put the pan on. The gasket is one big complete piece, and seals the oilpan against the lower portion of the front plate. I'm figuring when you pull that plate off, you may mess up the gasket. You might be able to just fake it with silicone, but that opens up a nother whole can o' worms. I'm not sure how else you'd do that part.

It'd be good to have some taps. The holes where the bolts come out of are blind holes, and often are rusty and nasty inside. It'd be wise to run a bottoming tap into them before putting the new one on.

Lastly, you want to make sure you get all the old gasket off, and make sure everything is nice and clean before you put it back together. When I did mine, I put just a hint of the grey sealant on the gaskets before I assembled the thing. Any leaks here, and you'll likely have water in your oil, or oil in your water. Not much fun...

You'll have to re-do the timing of the injection pump gear. So, before you start this project, it's much easier to do if you have the engine at #1 cylinder at TDC, so that when it comes time to put the balancer back on, and re-time the injection pump, you'll know where things are already. I have written an article explaining how to re-do the timing. It snot hard, just takes a bit 'o patience.

When you put the water pump back on, don't forget that the bolts at the top of the water pump in the center 2 holes are shorter than the rest. DO NOT mix these up with the others. If you put ones in that are too long, you'll risk breaking the shaft in the injection pump. These top 2 and also the bottom 2 holes need to be sealed, as they protrude into the oil drain area, and will leak a lot of oil if not sealed.

I have one pic of the area behind the plate.

..click here..

As I said, it's not impossible, but it is a big job.

Are you sure it's not just leaking oil from the center bolt holes, and/or from the injection pump cover? They're both common leaks, and can lose a lot of oil down the front of the engine which makes a huge mess...

I'm not sure who's going to have more fun this weekend, You with your plate, or me pulling my drivers side head in the rain....

(sigh)

Zigg

 

[icanfixall]

If as posted you plan on replacing the front main seal make sure of the gaskets and buy a speedy sleeve for the worn harmonic balancer shaft. They are cheap and if your seal surface is ok just save it till you need it. You will find that plate has to be lined up so the seal runs true to the balancer. You will find 2 alignment dowels to help. The service manual shows how to check runout with a dial indicator but thats just over the top in my opinion. The gasket set you need is part number E3TZ-6020-A. It has both sides and the water pump gasket. I don't remember what it cost. I think it was around $30.00 or there abouts. The front seal is a National brand and the number is 3894V. Ford number is E3TZ-6700-A. I don't use a pan gasket and most wont when replacing the pan. A good oil proof RTV works fine. Just make sure things are clean down there and use plenty RTV to fill the joint. Where the top injection pump gear tower (the half moon cover with 4 bolts in it) has a groove that the plate rides up into. Make sure its really clean in there and you wont have any leaks. The gear timing is really easy so don't get scared. Take your time and be clean and careful. It will all come together.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Naptha is the best gasket removing stuff I've ever used. Apply it with a paper towel, let it sit for a coupla mins, and the silicone comes right off. No scraping. Nice and clean, ready for your new gasket/silicone.

Ultra copper is my RTV of choice. It even held on my old Pontiac 455 exhaust manifold/downpipe, with a broken off stud ear. Smeared it on thick and hose clamped the downpipe flange to the opposite side of the exhaust manifold. I couldn't believe it held, but it did for 30K miles.

Check your pump, the newer castings have the top 2 bosses cast longer than the early ones. Eliminating the bolt/IP gear problem. But you need the same length bolts as the rest for them. The shorter bolts wont reach with the newer casting.

Oh, and youll need a bag ass cheater bar for the crank bolt, possibly a harmonic balancer remover?

 

[swampdigger]

I knew there was a reason why I posted these questions.

I think I'll save the front cover for when I get home. Parts discount, borrowed transportation, the rest of my tools and a covered shop makes it sound better.

I like the price on the gaskets though!

But now I have all this RTV kickin' around! Maybe I'll just do the pmp cover tomorrow--see if that puts a dent in my oil consumption.

I'm facing a 1700km drive home in a month, I just wanna be ready for it! Installing a pair of cheap speakers are high on the priority list for the drive too. And one month after I get home, it's a 1400km trip off to Alberta for work. This truck needs to be solid!

 

[f-two-fiddy]

It might be worth just resealing the IP gear cover. They're notorious leakers, especially if the PO fudged the front cover.

As for speakers, I've had great luck with the Pioneer speakers from Wallmart.

 

[zigg]

Where's home?

If I were you, I'd think about re-sealing the 2 bolts at the top center of the water pump, and the bottom 2 as well. It doesn't involve removing as much stuff as the front plate(you still might have to remove the fan to get the fan pulley off, but the pump can stay put. If the PO did as crappy a job as you say, then those bolts can also leak a lot, and it runs down the front, and the fan blows it all over.

Again, if you pull the inj. pump cover, it's not hard to re-do the timing. Just have it at TDC before you start, and it's too easy.

..Pump Timing article-Poke here...

Hope the rain holds back for you...

Zigg

 

[82fordtruck]

I have the cheap door speakers - They're new from the Ford dealer in the box. I'll sell for $20 for both. PM me.

Want a radio too? I'll throw it in free.

 

[82fordtruck]

If you want a CD player - I'll sell you that too. $50 with the ford connectors already wired up. It's a sony.

 

[towcat]

If you want a CD player - I'll sell you that too. $50 with the ford connectors already wired up. It's a sony.

if he ain't up for it, I am

 

[swampdigger]

Where's home?

If I were you, I'd think about re-sealing the 2 bolts at the top center of the water pump, and the bottom 2 as well. It doesn't involve removing as much stuff as the front plate(you still might have to remove the fan to get the fan pulley off, but the pump can stay put. If the PO did as crappy a job as you say, then those bolts can also leak a lot, and it runs down the front, and the fan blows it all over.

Again, if you pull the inj. pump cover, it's not hard to re-do the timing. Just have it at TDC before you start, and it's too easy.

..Pump Timing article-Poke here...

Hope the rain holds back for you...

Zigg

Home is Prince Rupert! Record holding rainiest city in Canada, and record holding for the least amount of days of sunshine. And second place record holding largest population drop since the last census. Haha, it's a great place

Great write up though! Oil consumption be damned, I kinda just wanna do it for the hell of it now. Don, what's it cost around these parts to get injectors tested?

I didn't get rained on much today. Did a lot of little things that were well worth it. How'd your head pull go?

Towcat: she's all yours. 82ford, I've got a CD player installed already, and while the price is right on those speakers, I saw a set of nice ones at the pawn shop the other day for 30 bucks. Thanks though

 

[zigg]

I didn't get rained on much today. Did a lot of little things that were well worth it. How'd your head pull go?

I didn't do anything to the truck at all. Sometimes you just have to walk away and take a break.

It rained pretty good most of the day here.
I worked in my shop all day instead today. Did a bit of cleanup, and made some bushings for the front axle for my yard tractor/loader. Went for a long bike ride and got soaked. Still better than being at work though.

I been to prince rupert. I like it there too, but it sure does rain alright. Good salmon and Crab fishing(least there used to be) I'd love to live there now. I'm about sick of living here in the Big smoke...

Maybe if the rain lets up, I'll pull that head tomorrow.

Zigg