Fresh Reman Engine Ticking

Hydro-idi · Feb 20, 2016

I got Russ's stanadyne D code sticks in the mail earlier this afternoon along with return line kit. Got em installed an hour later and took truck for a drive. Engine idles very smooth now and runs much better than it ever has. Very surprised that truck doesn't shake anymore idling at stop lights because it's always done that. It feels a little stronger with these injectors in as well. Ticking hasn't showed back up so I'm happy. Thanks again Russ!

icanfixall · Feb 21, 2016

Good you read this. Anytime injectors pop differently you are going to have a ruff idle. The fuel must be injected at the same pop pressure every time. Spray pattern is very important too. Many so called rebuilt injectors sold by the many ebay sellers are not in fact really rebuilt. So please investigate who you are buying from. The cheapest ebay seller from the good state of tenn has the very worst product and customer rep anywhere. Then there are some in Florida that come in a close second to tenn... Reading is our only way of gaining information. Then information gives us the power to make good choices. Buying "street corner" unknown injectors or injection pumps is like buying drugs from an unknown person. You have no idea what you are getting.

Hydro-idi · Feb 25, 2016

Well fellas, after driving truck around for a few days and returning timing marks back to ~9 btdc, engine is back to ticking on that same cylinder. Looks like the saga continues with this reman engine from hell.
I called up Mel a few days ago and had a long conversation with him. First off, wanted to say thanks again Mel for taking time out of your day to help me out. I told him the entire story & the previous problems i have had with engine. He asked lots of questions about when the engine ticks & what parts had been replaced, etc.
I also told him I thought the injectors were the culprit & bought stanadyne injectors that seemed to fix the ticking noise.......until I remembered engine was waaay retarded from a while back when I was trying to pinpoint problem. On a side note, I do have to admit that it does run much smoother with the stanadyne sticks. As soon as I lined scribe marks back up, it continued with the noise.
Unfortunately, Mel thinks that it may be a wrist pin/connecting rod tolerance problem. Maybe wrist pin bushing is going south or connecting rod is bad. He also mentioned that maybe this cylinder is having an oiling issue, & perhaps something is wrong with oil squirter. Who knows until I tear this thing apart. And to top it off, I pulled dipstick about a half hour ago & found tons of very small metal particles

. Almost looks like a shimmery black paint. I have never seen oil have that many metal particles in it before. I'm assuming this is not normal since I have changed oil/filter 3x in the first 500 miles that this engine has on it. Lots of $ and time has been dumped into this thing taking it apart about 5x now, and its a shame stuff like this has to happen but **** happens I guess.
I think I am going to run this engine in the meantime. Don't plan on running it easy either. If it blows, it blows and we can see what was the cause of failure. Anyways :cheers:

.

Waystro · Feb 25, 2016

Man I feel for you. I still wished I had run my 6.9 until she blowed since it needs a full rebuild anyways. Haha Forgive me if its been said before but where did you get this block from? Seems I read it was from eBay?

Hydro-idi · Feb 25, 2016

Waystro said:
Man I feel for you. I still wished I had run my 6.9 until she blowed since it needs a full rebuild anyways. Haha Forgive me if its been said before but where did you get this block from? Seems I read it was from eBay?

Yes, diesel surplus in Minneapolis. Got a smoking deal on it because it was an overstock short block that had been sitting in their warehouse for a long time. Still trying to find their contact info. Don't think this engine came with a warranty either but I plan on contacting the guy I was dealing with.

icanfixall · Feb 26, 2016

Well that sure is not a good sign. If you have an magnetic drain plug you might be able to tell what is "possibly failing internally. Anytime you see shiny metal flakes in the oil its a magnetic material problem. Wrist pins are not magnetic nor are the rods or mains but only way to know is to open it up and measure EVERYTHING. I will suggest there is a problem in the valve system. That is the only place in the engine where actual metal is wearing on metal. Roller lifters on the cam. The push rod on both ends. The rockers on the both ends too. Figure the amount of miles you have on it and then double that. This is when it probably will become undriveable because its making way too much noise. Changing timing should have no bearing on the noise.

riotwarrior · Feb 26, 2016

Send oil for analisys asap...find out *** is goin on...

Just sayin....

Hydro-idi · Feb 26, 2016

Got an oil sample sent to blackstone earlier today. We will see what they say. Mel was saying that by advancing the timing, it may be putting more strain on whatever is causing this noise, like a bearing with too much tolerance. Whether it be wrist pin, connecting rod, or something else. It can only be heard when engine is hot, idling, & in gear. Everyone I have taken it to says they can definitely hear it, just cant find it.

subway · Feb 27, 2016

Ouch, my 48 Willy's has a rod knock that only comes on when the engine warms up. I figured the oil thins our enough that it shows up when it heats up. Sorry to hear about your problems.

Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk

Hydro-idi · Mar 11, 2016

I got the blackstone oil analysis back earlier on this week. Surprisingly, the engine seems to be wearing well & nothing out of the ordinary. The metal concentrations were a little higher than normal but they are saying that's typical with a new engine.