Fresh Reman Engine Ticking

Hydro-idi

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Don't know how I inserted that last pic & can't seem to delete it. Ignore that one.
Also can't get those pics upright. Sorry fellas
 

subway

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Looks real nice, did you ever find a smoking gun piece that caused the tick?

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Hydro-idi

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Looks real nice, did you ever find a smoking gun piece that caused the tick?

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The short block spec'd out ok, but wasn't happy with the off brand rebuild kit that was previously used. The rings also lost their tension after 500 miles. Thinking that was because of the high egts tho. That's when we decided to do a full tear down & rebuild.
The cylinder heads were a different story. Every valve seat was cracked real bad (traveled into combustion area on head surface), valves were cupping & guides were shot especially on that cylinder that was ticking. Every pre-cup was also cracked beyond re-use. Thinking that was the cause because valves had a lot of slop in them when rocked back n forth in guides.
Goes to show you these cast iron heads will crack way before Pistons start to melt. Had egts up @ 1400 on a few occasions and Pistons showed no sign of egt damage when they had em out. Heads sure did tho. They were both trash & had to find semi good ones that were worthy of rebuilding.
 

subway

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Ok, I was reading back through and saw all of that, I just wondered if you had one thing that you could point to. All of those shortcomings are sure a disappointment but at least they are taken care of now.

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Hydro-idi

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After talking to Mel about it a couple months ago, I was certain that it was a wrist pin bushing or con rod out of round. But it all measured out fine. We did machine the rods on both ends for S & G's while it was apart.
Been a little nervous thinking about starting this engine. I know everything went together correctly, but this thing had some bad juju. Crossing fingers that we shook all that off lol.
 

riotwarrior

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Remove gp so little to no load on engine crank engine over 20 sec....wait few min do this a few times even after oil press up to *****...just cause a guage reads does in no way indicate full oil everysingle nook and cranny.

We would turn the prelube drill for no less than 5 min when prepping hot rod sbc or what ever prior to fire just for that reason.

JM7.3CW


E D I T....

Maybe its old school tinking....but drop oil and filter after 20 min amd install fresh oil and filter....ya 10 Q alot to drop but....sure is beats any bad particles in there...

500 mile...same drop oil filter....1500...same...then regular 3k if thats yer schedule....

Just sayin...its how we used to break in engines..
 

79jasper

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But if he follows the rebuilders instructions, and something happens, it's not on him.

I do agree though. And don't know that I'd put synblend in at that low of miles after a rebuild.

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riotwarrior

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There is the option of asking rebuilder if that routine would be satisfactory and NOT VOID WARRANTY correct....choices to make.
 

Hydro-idi

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Btw, sent you a pm Al.
Yeah, been thinking about this & may talk to machine shop about the syn blend oil this early in a rebuilt engine.
And yes, that's how I have been priming oil system. I also hook an oil pressure gauge to it & spin for another minute after it has primed.
 

Hydro-idi

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that thing running yet?

It's just sitting there. Got a few things to do like putting a new heater hose on & filling rad with coolant. Then hooking batts up and that's it. Haven't had time to work on it this week tho. Hopefully I can get over there this weekend
 

Hydro-idi

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Thinking about the proper break in process tonight, I'm going to call Schaffer oil co. tomorrow and see what they have to say. If they recommend not to use it in a new engine, I'll probably just stick with the good old Delo. Keep you guys posted
 

IDIoit

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i run schaffers in all my flat tappet stuff.
when it comes down to it, the type of oil is really dependant on the type of cam you got.
as these IDI's are all roller, you dont have to worry about it too much..
run what you brung!
 
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