Freeze Plug Tool

[icanfixall]

I have been looking for that special tool used to install the freeze plug in our 6.9 and 7.3 motors. Anybody know where I can buy one?

 

[suv7734]

I have always done well with the OTC brand and it is available most everywhere or they can order it. Here's a link to their product page. Scroll down to 4603 (about $50.00) or 4604 and try not to look at anything else on the way down

http://www.otctools.com/products/category.php?cat=3

 

[icanfixall]

I saw those but what I need is completely differant from those. Its really a tool that can only install our 1 1/2 inch concave style freeze plugs. The tool I need holds the plug in the rabbited grove then you hit the plunger with a hammer and it spreads the plug just enough to hold it in the block. It has a stop that wont allow you to set it too deep.

 

[mpa]

The correct tool # is rotunda 303-D045, the old # is D83T-6015-B, installer,expasion plug, fits 6.9/7.3(idi), 7.3(dit), & FD1460 diesel engines

 

[RLDSL]

The correct tool # is rotunda 303-D045, the old # is D83T-6015-B, installer,expasion plug, fits 6.9/7.3(idi), 7.3(dit), & FD1460 diesel engines

Any idea where to pick one of those things up? Google search turns up nothing, and ebay is just as dry.

---Robert

 

[mpa]

As far as I know the only place that you can get it is a ford dealer, That's where I ordered mine from when I rebuilt my 6.9. I've been watching e-bay, but have not sean any come up.

 

[Brimmstone]

I talked to Ford and neither of those numbers are good for the tool. I'm going to try and have a friend who works there make me one on the lathe then ship it to me.

 

[Full Monte]

It seems like a pretty simple problem to solve. Have you checked to see if any of your sockets would fit to use as a driver to install them?

 

[Brimmstone]

The problem is our engines don't use a standard style freeze plug. Instead of being the standard cup plug that is pretty much fool proof to install short of driving it all the way into the engine. The 6.9 and 7.3 use a round convex disc that inserted onto a lip and then dimpled at it's center with the special tool.

 

[suv7734]

Actually these style core/freeze plugs are not dimpled in the center but rather around the outer circumference when the correct tool is used. There should be no contact of the tool on the crowned portion of the plug.
Here is a good article on it (the expansion plugs style is the relevant one)
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0a/58/43/0900823d800a5843/repairInfoPages.htm
that shows the correct tool etc.

 

[icanfixall]

Suv... Thats not how our plugs are installed. That artical is for the cup type plugs. Look at what the factory did to install the plugs in any original block. The stainless steel plugs are dimpled in the centers for the proper amount of expansion and driving it in with a socket or lasrge punch wil not tell you if its set properly. The correct tool can only install it so far into the block. The tool has a built in stop and you hear and feel it when its done correctly. That artical is a nice one but its not for us. Its for the cup type plugs.

 

[suv7734]

Ican,
Check the second picture of the installation tool (the one on the right)

Step #6 outlines the difference between the two types of core plugs:

"Coat the outer diameter of the new plug with sealer and place it in the hole.
For cup-type core plugs: These plugs are installed with the flanged end outward. The maximum diameter of this type of plug is located at the outer edge of the flange. Carefully and evenly, drive the new plug into place.

For expansion-type plugs: These plugs are installed with the flanged end inward. The maximum diameter of this type of plug is located at the base of the flange. It is imperative that the correct type of installation tool is used with this type of plug. Under no circumstances is this type of plug to be driven in using a tool that contacts the crowned portion of the plug. Driving in this plug incorrectly will cause the plug to expand prior to installation. When installed, the trailing (maximum) diameter of the plug MUST be below the chamfered edge of the bore to create an effective seal. If the core plug replacing tool has a depth seating surface, do not seat the tool against a non-machined (casting) surface.

As you said the type of plug we use is a completely different animal being an expansion fit as opposed to the "normal" cup type which are an interference fit.

 

[Brimmstone]

While I applaud your finding the article I have to agree with Ican. I am very tight with the Ford dealership that was near my old house. I looked at the correct tool and could make one in under an hour on a lathe if I had time. I also know what happens when someone uses the cup-style expansion plug they have a nasty habit of popping out of the block. I went through this when I was younger and didn't know there was a special plug for the 6.9s and 7.3s. I put the same plug in 3 times and had it pop out each time. Thankfully it never hurt the engine. I was about to give up when a friend who was the dealerships diesel tech stopped over. He showed me what I was doing wrong and brought the tool over the next day and the correct plug. I was skeptical but it worked perfect. That was 5 years ago and the plug is still in there dry as a bone.

 

[icanfixall]

That tool is really something special thats for sure. It will only seat the plug to the proper depth by expanding it from the center or very near the center. I feel they do need some sealant applied to them prior to setting them in the block. This tool will hold them in by an area on the driving end thats designed for this. My original block still has the factory freeze plugs in it and they are stainless steel. They are dimpled in the center but the factory tool also has made a larger impression around the center than what I'm currently running. I witnessed the installation of mine done with this special tool and now I'm wondering if maybe it was well worn. I tested the block with 35 lbs of air pressure and used a leak detector agent around every plug. No leaks found and the pressure held for 30 minutes till I let it out. I'm glad none of them popped out because that would have really hurt someone. Anyway I have found 2 of these plugs weeping so slightly that it only leaves a stain on the block down to the pan rail. It doesn't drop off but the block heat drys it . All of my plugs have 3 places where I applied some JB Weld expoy on them just for insureance. This is something I well be watching closely till I either remove all of the plugs and install another set I have but with a better special or custom tool that matches the factory set dimple.....

 

[typ4]

So I guess I have been very lucky with my 2 hammer method of installing them.
It was at 240 degrees for 5 miles at crater lake. very small amount of aviation permatex around the edge