Found My Slight Fuel Leak...

[HammerDown]

Removed the fuel filter (time to change it anyhow)...removed the water separator and 9/16th plastic screw-in electrical connector that was barely hand tight.
So, I unscrewed it to find the 0-ring was kinda compressed useless.
Anyhow, not knowing what size the 0-ring is (and if anyone knows the exact size would be helpful) so, what I did was remove it and reinstall it upside down...this reversed the compressed taper in the 0-ring.
The 27 year old 0-ring was still pliable just tapered.
It would have been nice to install a NEW 0-ring but I was running out of daylight...hoping it doesn't weep.

 

[icanfixall]

So this was the fuel leak you had chased for a few months. Even though you flipped over the o rings I feel adding some RTV to this seal area would insure no future leaks happen. If an o ring lasted 27 years and may not have been tight all along then some RTV sure would have told me I could fly to the moon and not worry bout a leak. I'm actually surprised how well Permatex Ultra copper plus seals. Getting the surfaces absolutely clean is what really makes it work.

 

[HammerDown]

So this was the fuel leak you had chased for a few months. Even though you flipped over the o rings I feel adding some RTV to this seal area would insure no future leaks happen. If an o ring lasted 27 years and may not have been tight all along then some RTV sure would have told me I could fly to the moon and not worry bout a leak. I'm actually surprised how well Permatex Ultra copper plus seals. Getting the surfaces absolutely clean is what really makes it work.

I actually though about a little smear of Ultra Grey at that sender as it's designed for gear lube...however I thought for sure diesel fuel would dissolve it quickly.
Now there is also a schrader valve pressed into the bottom cover too...I didn't want to mess with that!

 

[HammerDown]

Oh, and this was the first time I ever filled the fuel filter with ATF...engine fired right up and was hoping to see some heavy smoke...nothing, but it was sure quiet!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i don't know what size it is.the part number for the water separator drain o-ring is E8TZ-9B268-A

if you google it,you can find it for 15-20$ i think id just take it with me into a hardware store and buy one for 20 cents instead.

there are a couple other options too.wix makes a filter/separator combo which eliminates the metal screw on bowl and you can also find clear bowls to screw on in place.i put one of those on log truck.

new clear bowl option:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?55207-Clear-Fuel-Bowl-for-your-6-9-or-7-3!

 

[Clb]

Rtv is evil, works great WHEN used correctly!
That said rector seal is fuel rated. There are other sealants for fuel lines also.
Have not looked to see it the oring in question if rtv'd could shed material downstream into the ip or not.
Good heads up.

 

[79jasper]

Could be wrong, but I think the filter would stop it from traveling downstream.

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[Clb]

Hopefully its on the inlet side.

 

[icanfixall]

This water in fuel sensor is on the INLET side of the fuel filter so there is no possibility on this RTV migrating into the outlet side of the filter. Also RTV wont be disolved by diesel. Its been recommended as a seal plug for the fuel heater removal for a long time and nobody has come back and mentioned it failed. But no worries. Its all good. Too nice a day ahead here. Going to be in the low 80's today with high coastal flooding because of the extra high tides. I'm 20 miles from the mean high tide line and about 1600 ft above that. Can hardly wait to see a high tide at my home....

 

[BrianX128]

I'm also curious about what the exact size is supposed to be, mine is a little wet up around the fuel heater plug, never can see it leak but with the air into fuel system possibility I'd love to replace mine as well. I have a viton o ring kit with like every o ring from harbor freight, and I'm off the next two days so I'm definitely going to try and match it up and replace it. Any guess of what size to start with would be fantastic.

 

[icanfixall]

I'm also curious about what the exact size is supposed to be, mine is a little wet up around the fuel heater plug, never can see it leak but with the air into fuel system possibility I'd love to replace mine as well. I have a viton o ring kit with like every o ring from harbor freight, and I'm off the next two days so I'm definitely going to try and match it up and replace it. Any guess of what size to start with would be fantastic.

If you have as you stated. Just remove the heater electrical plug and match up the size. Sorry I don't have the size. I recall needing a 1 inch combo wrench to remove the element from under the filter head. The fitting you remove is the brass piece the filter screws onto. Once thats removed just press out the electrical fitting from the top of the filter head. BTW nobody in any areas of this country or Canada has found the need for these "fuel heaters". Once you see where it is you will understand it really is of no use. First off its on TOP of the fuel wanting to be heated.. How's that supposed to work. Heat will raise. Not really good at growing downwards. Think about the pan on the stove. The heat is under it. Sure, the heat in the broiler is on top of what you want to cook but really.. We are supposed to allow around 7 or 8 minutes for the heater to warm up the fuel..... So we are to turn on the ignition but not start the engine. Wait 7 or 8 minutes and then start. I wonder what happens to the incoming fuel after we start... All that warm fuel is replaced with cold fuel... Hows that working. Ford later on in the pad engine fuel system finally placed the heaters un the bottom of the fuel canister. But I learned that did not work well either. so most owners will remove the heaters and be better off without them. It sure stops the fuel leaks in this notorious place...

 

[HammerDown]

Well, reversing the o-ring on the water sensor seems to have worked!
People are condemning the OE top mounted fuel heater and I get heat won't migrate 'down' into the filter but I just wonder (thinking outside the box)...what if the top mounted heater 'may' help if there are some crystallized or jelling fuel at the top of the filter and the heater takes care of it before it enters the hard line into the IP.

 

[snicklas]

I don't think they are necessary. My 6.0's fuel heater has been unhooked for at least 5 years and I've not had an issue. I do use the White Bottle Power Service when it starts to get cold, and have not had any issues with jelling. The newer 6.0's don't have a heater at all. I don't think my VW IDI has a fuel heater at all..........

 

[79jasper]

Viton? Harbor freight?
Uh, I don't know man. Lol

Even with the price of anti-gel, I bet it's cheaper in the long run to just delete the heater.
Shouldn't all idi's be running some fuel additive anyways?.....

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