Fixing up a 94 F350 4x4 turbo 7.3L

[Heide264]

Good morning,

I think it's about time to make a post/log regarding my project. It's now spring, so I can finally get some work done on this thing. I plan to use this mainly as a log and to get some help.

As a bit of background about myself, I'm an electrical engineer and have fairly limited mechanical skills. I have a 2011 Subaru STi that I've done a decent amount of work to and I did all the tuning myself for that thing (ECU included). As far as diesel goes, I've read a few books on diesel technology and performance, and have read through all the forum stickies around, but that's about it.

So, I picked up this thing locally late last fall. It doesn't fit in my garage at all, so I haven't worked on it all winter. It's in pretty rough shape. There is a good bit of epoxy in the engine bay to sum it up.

Some pictures:

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So it needs some work.

The immediate issues other than the inspection sticker:
-Windshield needs replaced (Calling a pro for this one I think)
-Power steering only works when the RPMs are high (Have a refurb'd gearbox and pump rebuild kit waiting)
-Brakes are terrifying (got a replacement vacuum pump, but I think I'm gonna convert the brakes to hydroboost)
-The stickers (they are gone minus the one on the tailgate... took a good 1/4 can of acetone)
-Had HID high beams only (ballasts removed - new factory assemblies en route with bulbs. Will wire relays in for 'em)
-She starts (with some ether)... but man does she smoke. I'll have to go over the fuel system a bit and adjust/time the pump.

As it sits, the serpentine belt is removed as well as the bumper, grill, and the front lights. Vacuum pump is removed.

I am planning on just pulling what I can off of the front clip, changing all the fluids, get that gearbox replaced, and go from there. I also picked up a bunch of molex connectors to get some of the wiring cleaned up. I spoke to Mel on the phone the other day - I have a feeling I'll be picking up a few things off him in the near/semi-distant future.

Yup... that about sums it up. I'll probably be posting up the next few weeks asking dumb questions. I appreciate the patience and any help.

Brandon

 

[Heide264]

Alright. So some more pictures of the giant paper weight:

First dumb mistake... that wrench was stuck there until I got my die grinder run all the way up from the garage to take the other stripped bolt off:

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I've never had sailfin windows... these thing are awesome. You can see my overly sized antenna there... which is connected to nothing.

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My target for the early mechanical work. I can't seem to find an easy-to-remove bracket to get the pump off with.

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Missing an intake. This needs to be resolved before driving it again, as well. Some epoxy sculptures, as well.

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Wiring. Enough said.

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Yup... Have some learning and some work to do!

 

[laserjock]

Welcome to the OB! First post is a build thread. Gotta love it. I'll give you the standard welcome. Fill in your sig with your truck details as much as possible. Makes things easier. Take a look at the FAQs and the Hall of Shame. Don't be afraid to ask. The only stupid question is the one you fail to ask. I live by this mantra these days.

Looks like you have a lot of work ahead of you but it seems to be a reasonably solid starting point.

Welcome and good luck!

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. Its best to remove the vacuum pump pulley and the power steering pumppulley so these can be removed from that bracket easier. Be careful buying a vacuum pump. The one you want has a drilled body where the non srepentine belt vacuum pumps have a drilled and threaded body. Most any auto parts store will rent you the pump pulley remover and installer tools. Or buy one from ebay but please ask if that will work on your pumps. I bought one and keep it behind my rear seat for those repairs out on the road. So far 8 years and never used it on the road yet. Be sure to install the pulleys the same amount on the new pumps so the belt will run true. Thats really sad to see epoxy used like that. On top of the filter housing is what many use instead of replacing the heater o rings. We do not need a fuel heater and nobody really knows we are supposed to turn on the key and wait 5 minutes for the heater to warm up the fuel.. This was Fords omission... You really need a return line kit too. Just clean off the injector lines so no dirt gets into the fuel system. Also check that each bank of injector lines has 2 vibration clamps on them per side. If you don't have them the lines will crack and leak diesel everywhere.

 

[Heide264]

Welcome to the forum. Its best to remove the vacuum pump pulley and the power steering pumppulley so these can be removed from that bracket easier. Be careful buying a vacuum pump. The one you want has a drilled body where the non srepentine belt vacuum pumps have a drilled and threaded body. Most any auto parts store will rent you the pump pulley remover and installer tools. Or buy one from ebay but please ask if that will work on your pumps. I bought one and keep it behind my rear seat for those repairs out on the road. So far 8 years and never used it on the road yet. Be sure to install the pulleys the same amount on the new pumps so the belt will run true. Thats really sad to see epoxy used like that. On top of the filter housing is what many use instead of replacing the heater o rings. We do not need a fuel heater and nobody really knows we are supposed to turn on the key and wait 5 minutes for the heater to warm up the fuel.. This was Fords omission... You really need a return line kit too. Just clean off the injector lines so no dirt gets into the fuel system. Also check that each bank of injector lines has 2 vibration clamps on them per side. If you don't have them the lines will crack and leak diesel everywhere.

Thanks for the welcome guys!

I tried about 3 different pullers for the vacuum pump with no avail. I gotta keep looking around, but I figured it would be easier off of the truck. I think I have committed myself to taking the front clip off anyways to work on the engine front a bit easier and to force myself to do a few fluid changes. I did not realize the pump difference - great heads up. I got one from rockauto, so I'll double check that.

As far as the fuel filter/separator/thing goes, I have a feeling I'm going to be junk yard searching for that. When I get a new one, I'll do any suggested changes to that one. I have a feeling that this one is past repair given the small epoxy mountain.

For the fuel lines, I think I am going to get a new set of injectors (stock or moosers) and a good return line kit, and do it all at once. I also have a feeling my supply line 'spider' is a bit whacked out, so I may need to replace that or at least get creative with a tubing bender. Hopefully I can get that mini-epoxy-mountain-of-uselessness off that injector and figure out what is really at fault. I have no idea what the vibration clamps are or where they should be, so I'll look into that, as well.

I appreciate all the input. As I said, I have very little mechanical experience (I learned how to do an oil change on my STi when I got it) and no experience at all dealing with trucks or diesels. It's a bit of a steep learning curve, so whatever help I get I really do appreciate.

 

[79jasper]

Use a power steering pump pulley puller.
(Say that 5 times fast)


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[Heide264]

Use a power steering pump pulley puller.
(Say that 5 times fast)


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I tried every puller I could rent from the autozone by me. I'll try again now that it isn't freezing and dark before 6pm. Now that it's off the truck, I can use my impact wrench with any of the pullers to make life a bit easier, as well.

...Knowing my luck he used JBWeld to hold the pulley and I just can't see it.

 

[79jasper]

Haven't used auto zones set. But the oreilly's one worked pretty good.


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[riotwarrior]

Ya before spending any $$$ on parts check here we have the experience as to where to get good prices and products.

Looks like quite a bit of work ahead of you with that mess on the injection line, not sure what that's about but eh...it is what it is, perhaps a cracked line?

Return line kits from Russ known here as Typ4 or from Mel known here as Agnem who owns www.conestogadiesel.com are good quality kits.

Other members have parts and tools as well.

GOod luck with the build

Al

 

[FordGuy100]

I'd wager $10 that you bought that off of a guy younger than 25

My truck is Jerry rigged, but whoa. I liked the RTV on the injector line, no doubt its leaking diesel there (hard starts as well).

 

[dgr]

Now would be the time to put in the hydroboost P/S pump.

 

[Heide264]

Thanks guys. That's why I started this thread up - figured it would be best to shoot it by some more knowledgeable people.

The guy I had the truck from is a bit out there, but I don't know him well (just second hand through a few friends), so I can't say too much about him personally - nor would you guys really care. He was somewhere in the 25-30 age. He had the truck for about 7 years, to my understanding. It's been well abused, but it was pretty cheap and I wanted a cheap/functional/project truck. This was cheaper than most half decent S10s or Rangers, and I've wanted something diesel to mess with.

I gave Mel a call the other day actually to touch base and get some ideas from him. I wish I had the cash to throw at new injectors for now, but I think I am going to at least pull them out and clean them up while I'm in there. I will throw the cash at a new set of return lines while I am doing them. I'd hate to get the injectors before I get everything cleaned up and end up destroying them with whatever mud he had in the fuel system. This will involve moving the epoxy/RTV/??? mountain and figuring out whats back there (or the lack there of).

I don't know that I have an o'reily's around here. Do you guys have a good ebay puller that you would recommend? I don't want to throw a ton of money into it, but I'm at the point it would probably be a good buy as long as its functional.

hydroboost will be going in with the steering gearbox/pump/line change. I think I just need to find a hydroboost reservoir cover and the actual hydroboost 'module'. Has anybody had luck just tapping another return in the side of the reservoir? I can probably find one on rock auto, I'll look around.

I'll keep ya guys updated! Progress will be a bit slow, just a heads up - I have to make some changes to my beer brewing setup (got a new pump... woot) and just got an 8 month old great dane mix from a shelter. Plus... I take forever to do anything involving mechanical work.

 

[TahoeTom]

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1093022-my-latest-project-hydroboost-brakes.html
Here is a good thread on hydroboost. I used the info to do mine. I bought a new hydroboost (Motorcraft) and lines from Rock Auto and a reman PS pump from Ford. The only difference in the pumps is the second return fitting on the reservoir, but my old pump needed replacement. I did the pedal mod also based on the experience of the poster. I believe using a "T" to join the two return lines isn't the best way to do it.

 

[Heide264]

Good morning!

I haven't had much time to work on the truck due to spring kicking in. I'm looking forward to getting some more work done on the truck over these upcoming weeks.

I just picked up a CD from Ebay with all three '93 service manuals scanned into .pdf format for $30. Considering how little experience I have with either Fords or trucks, I'm glad to have it on hand. I'm sure I'll be back here over the next couple weeks with additional questions and such.

Anybody have any suggestions as to sourcing a hydroboost unit?

 

[Heide264]

Got a bit of work done.

Figured out (at least one of the reasons) why my oil pressure light was on:

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Trying to get the front clip off. I figure it'll give me more room to do what I need, anyhow. As dumb as it is, I can't figure out how to get everything out still. I'll dig through the service manual when I get around to it:

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