FITL ADJUSTMENT
- Thread starter CaptTom
- Start date
gandalf
Senior Member
Lifted from a post a long time ago, I believe on the previous site, now referred to as "Brand X". Actually two posts.
Here is a little history as to why we do it by voltage.......
By DieselDon
The TP (FIPL) sensor is incorporated to provide an electrical signal, which is proportional to the amount of fuel being delivered, as an input to the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly (TECA) Based on this information, the TP (FIPL) provides the proper shift scheduling and torque capacity.
Should a malfunction occur in the TP (FIPL) sensor circuit, the electrical signal sent to the TECA will be recognized as erroneous. When this out-of-specification signal is detected, the TECA will provide a high-capacity operating mode that protects the transmission from potential damage. This operating mode includes maximum TV pressure, resulting in harsh upshifts and engagements and a singular shift schedule regardless of accelerator pedal position, resulting in the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts occurring at a speed commensurate with a heavy (but not wide open) throttle setting.
The Ford shop manual has a procedure to set the FIPL sensor. It's fairly long and required a special guage block and the use of the Super Star Tester ( early scan tool ). I decided that this was not what the "field" needed so I called the Ford Hotline and they gave me plain and simple voltage readings at closed throttle and WOT. MUCH easier.
Closed throttle voltage = 1.1V
WOT min 0f 3.8V not to exceed 4.3V
You definitely don't want 5V at WOT. PCM would read this as a short between Reference Voltage ( 5V ) and FIPL signal and go into failure mode.
Hope this helps.
Don is a valued member and is now contracted by Ford to fix a major part of their mistakes and suggest fixes on the new 6.0.....
**************
This is a post by DieselDon I have taken the liberty to trim slightly....... Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire), I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL. Engine off key on........ With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V. The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly. The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
******************
It's actually pretty simple, once you understand the process. I did mine on Monday. Took about fifteen minutes.
Here is a little history as to why we do it by voltage.......
By DieselDon
The TP (FIPL) sensor is incorporated to provide an electrical signal, which is proportional to the amount of fuel being delivered, as an input to the Transmission Electronic Control Assembly (TECA) Based on this information, the TP (FIPL) provides the proper shift scheduling and torque capacity.
Should a malfunction occur in the TP (FIPL) sensor circuit, the electrical signal sent to the TECA will be recognized as erroneous. When this out-of-specification signal is detected, the TECA will provide a high-capacity operating mode that protects the transmission from potential damage. This operating mode includes maximum TV pressure, resulting in harsh upshifts and engagements and a singular shift schedule regardless of accelerator pedal position, resulting in the 1-2, 2-3 and 3-4 shifts occurring at a speed commensurate with a heavy (but not wide open) throttle setting.
The Ford shop manual has a procedure to set the FIPL sensor. It's fairly long and required a special guage block and the use of the Super Star Tester ( early scan tool ). I decided that this was not what the "field" needed so I called the Ford Hotline and they gave me plain and simple voltage readings at closed throttle and WOT. MUCH easier.
Closed throttle voltage = 1.1V
WOT min 0f 3.8V not to exceed 4.3V
You definitely don't want 5V at WOT. PCM would read this as a short between Reference Voltage ( 5V ) and FIPL signal and go into failure mode.
Hope this helps.
Don is a valued member and is now contracted by Ford to fix a major part of their mistakes and suggest fixes on the new 6.0.....
**************
This is a post by DieselDon I have taken the liberty to trim slightly....... Hook up the negative lead of the volt meter to the battery ground and the positiove lead to the center GY/W ( grey/white wire which is the FIPL signal wire), I use a paper clip up the side of the wire in the connector. The FIPL must be attached to the wiring harness. Engine low idle speed must be set to specs prior to adjusting the FIPL. Engine off key on........ With a warm engine, key on, engine off measure the voltage at the GY/W wire, if adjustment is required loosen either the bracket with bolts or just use the slack in the Torx screw holes. Now gently rotate the FIPL until you get some where between 1.05V and 1.1V. then tighten the torx screws or bolts which ever you loosened ensuring no movement of volt setting . Rotate the throttle lever to WOT see if you get 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V. The FIPL mounting bracket can be moved but ensure it is centered for a good rotation. Any adjustment should be made by only rotating the FIPL. If a new FIPL is required, check tang engagement as you take off the old FIPL and then make sure that the tangs in the new FIPL engage the throttle lever properly. The closed throttle voltage: 1.1 V, .........wide open throttle voltage: minimum of 3.8 V but not more than 4.3 V.
******************
It's actually pretty simple, once you understand the process. I did mine on Monday. Took about fifteen minutes.
WOW!!!!!!
That is awesome!!
Thanks a bunch for posting it. Tranny is giving me fits. OB1 popped FIPL and the one on the tranny MTL(?)... I don't think it read the TECA(???)
Here's a little tip on tranny testing I learned too.
Apparently, if you get the truck up to speed, 60MPH is the speed, and you lightly brake while maintaining speed, the tranny should downshift, you know, acting like it's going up a steep hill or trying to pull a load. If the tranny doesn't downshift, it's a bad torque converter.
Thanks again for posting that test.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Actually anytime you are going down the road and just lightly touch the brake peddle while your foot is still on the throttle you will cause the trans converter to start slipping because it unlocks the converter. Just like when you come to a stop. Also try this. Driving around 45 mph let off the throttle and watch the rpms. They will drop to idle or close toit... Thats the trans in coast mode... It feels like your inneutral but yournot. Now just add very little throttle and see the rpm pick up the trans. Now step on the brake and watch the rpm pick up because the brake peddle signals the torque converter to unlock... Its just how these E4OD trans work...
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
The sensor on the tranny is the Manual Lever Position Sensor. It tell the TCM what position the tranny is in.
Ford updated this part and gave it a new name. Transmission Range Sensor.
If you go to a parts store for this part. You might get the blank look from the parts guy. If that happens ask for a neutral safety switch.
Ford parts are fun.
Ford updated this part and gave it a new name. Transmission Range Sensor.
If you go to a parts store for this part. You might get the blank look from the parts guy. If that happens ask for a neutral safety switch.
Ford parts are fun.
flareside_thun
Reviving The General Tao
If you do replace the MLPS.... make sure you adjust it properly...other wise your reverse lights will be extremely picky and may or may not come on.
Well Smokers,
I went extreme!!!
Screw the piddly schnitz! I went full rebuild, upgraded everything to heavy duty and will put my new Derale #14208, E4OD / 4R100 / 5R110W Transmission Pan Cooler on it that came in yesterday! 8 quarts over regular pan. That pan is heaveeeee duty! We'll see how she performs. I'll report back after a few miles.
Heavy clutch pack, bigger torque converter and forgot to get the pressure gauge... but it will come.
I also ordered the temp sensor and gauge. Not bad looking,will exchange the bulb to blue instead of the white, easier on the eyes, brighter than red, and blue doesn't hurt night vision either.
Killed my Hypermax dream until next summer though.
Ah well... at least the truck will be a little more dependable.
You know what the wife told me??
Good thing I have one boat with a bed, heater and stove!
I went extreme!!!
Screw the piddly schnitz! I went full rebuild, upgraded everything to heavy duty and will put my new Derale #14208, E4OD / 4R100 / 5R110W Transmission Pan Cooler on it that came in yesterday! 8 quarts over regular pan. That pan is heaveeeee duty! We'll see how she performs. I'll report back after a few miles.
Heavy clutch pack, bigger torque converter and forgot to get the pressure gauge... but it will come.
I also ordered the temp sensor and gauge. Not bad looking,will exchange the bulb to blue instead of the white, easier on the eyes, brighter than red, and blue doesn't hurt night vision either.
Killed my Hypermax dream until next summer though.
Ah well... at least the truck will be a little more dependable.
You know what the wife told me??
Good thing I have one boat with a bed, heater and stove!
^^^^^^^^^
I bumped this up, only to suggest to management to maybe edit this thread and put it in the sticky section somewhere.
I think this was some great advice both above and under the engine for tranny issues.
Big thanks to gandalf, trackspeeder, flareside and icanfixall. All had separate but relevant suggestions to the issue at hand.
I bumped this up, only to suggest to management to maybe edit this thread and put it in the sticky section somewhere.
I think this was some great advice both above and under the engine for tranny issues.
Big thanks to gandalf, trackspeeder, flareside and icanfixall. All had separate but relevant suggestions to the issue at hand.
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