Fan Belt

divemaster5734

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Used the '90 box truck to make a couple loads at auction and on the second trip it threw the alt to fan v belt, could only find one 6" piece, but it popped the other two belts off the pulleys that were tangled against the block that were still whole, which I reused to get home along with a new alt belt.
Threw the belt at a bad highway interchange, made it to the offramp and pulled over.
Let it cool then got it 1/2 mile to an Oreilly's for the belt, had to use the store free loaner tools, not quite a bush fix, but not my shop either.
Got home and the new belt is on top of the pulley inside out.
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I obviously checked the tension when installed.
Had issues with the belts when getting it running after sitting and installed the turnbuckle.
The OEM mount wouldn't work for either the 3" or 7", so welded a piece of a 1/4" plate to the top of the OEM bracket.
Ran a couple hundred local miles without any problems.
The auction drop off is around 25 miles of mostly 4 lane highway, I never went past 65.
Didn't notice a pothole in time and the bounce was just apparently enough.
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The Bracket.

Not sure what's going on.
I started it up and the belt rolled onto the pulley track upside down.
Didn't take a pic of it.
I tension belts until there's less than an inch of play, except for the 58" one, the long gap between the alt and crank gets a wobble movement that's greater than the tension slack, is this just a case of not enough tension?
 

Cubey

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You need to tighten the alternator belt first, then the vac pump one. If you do it backwards, you won't have good results. Could be that turn buckle is the problem, if it's not tensioning the alternator belt enough.

That's how high up the notch/bolt should be on a properly tensioned alternator. (It's on a van here, hence the dripsticks) But this is a 3G alt, so maybe that's why it's higher?

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Cubey

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Then again, this was on the 87 F250. But I don't think the brackets are different between trucks/vans for the alternator.

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Black dawg

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how much can you physically move the top of the alternator by hand? That turnbuckle doesnt add any stability to the alt, like the oe bracket would.
Does the alt line up like it should?
 

IDIBOBS

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Used the '90 box truck to make a couple loads at auction and on the second trip it threw the alt to fan v belt, could only find one 6" piece, but it popped the other two belts off the pulleys that were tangled against the block that were still whole, which I reused to get home along with a new alt belt.
Threw the belt at a bad highway interchange, made it to the offramp and pulled over.
Let it cool then got it 1/2 mile to an Oreilly's for the belt, had to use the store free loaner tools, not quite a bush fix, but not my shop either.
Got home and the new belt is on top of the pulley inside out.
You must be registered for see images attach

I obviously checked the tension when installed.
Had issues with the belts when getting it running after sitting and installed the turnbuckle.
The OEM mount wouldn't work for either the 3" or 7", so welded a piece of a 1/4" plate to the top of the OEM bracket.
Ran a couple hundred local miles without any problems.
The auction drop off is around 25 miles of mostly 4 lane highway, I never went past 65.
Didn't notice a pothole in time and the bounce was just apparently enough.
You must be registered for see images attach

The Bracket.

Not sure what's going on.
I started it up and the belt rolled onto the pulley track upside down.
Didn't take a pic of it.
I tension belts until there's less than an inch of play, except for the 58" one, the long gap between the alt and crank gets a wobble movement that's greater than the tension slack, is this just a case of not enough tension?
How long have you run the turnbuckle. I’d say that’s the problem. It’s allowing the alternator to move around. I’d say put the stock bracket back on.
 

ttman4

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Years ago.....several years ago, & now I don't remember who or when, but someone here on OBurners started & posted a thread with pics about building & installing an idler on the longer alternator V belt.
& IIRC it was installed on the "bottom" side, the longer run between crank & alternator, & contacted the flat side of the belt, not the "V" side.
Seemed to work very good for him as well as several other folks that fabricated & tried it.
I always kinda remembered it but never tried it....... Now run a serpentine with a '94 Factory IDI Turbo engine in '90 Bessie, as well as my '92.
 

divemaster5734

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Then again, this was on the 87 F250. But I don't think the brackets are different between trucks/vans for the alternator.

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Went all-in on the Heim Joint's. The 7" one was right length but the straight line got the alt too close to the rod and the alt cooling fan fins hit it, so cut some 1/4" flat stock and welded to the end of the OEM bracket.
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Here's one angle with new belts. There's another shot coming later but it also tells another story.

how much can you physically move the top of the alternator by hand? That turnbuckle doesnt add any stability to the alt, like the oe bracket would.
Does the alt line up like it should?
The alt is held solid by the bracket bolts. It's a e350, so is crowded, but looks straight.
How long have you run the turnbuckle. I’d say that’s the problem. It’s allowing the alternator to move around. I’d say put the stock bracket back on.
It came with a totally jury rigged turnbuckle to act like a heim joint.
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And replaced it with below.

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Put it all together and did a test drive.
After 4 miles my temp gauge maxed out, pulled over but it wasn't hot.
The oil gauge also read 1/4 scale higher.
Got home and let it run about 30 minutes idling, 70F outside. Took some FLIR pics with heat readings.
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Lava Mode Max 87.1C (188°) to 37 (98.6°)
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The two gauges are now reading differently than before, and I still can't explain the anomaly spike during the test drive.




Years ago.....several years ago, & now I don't remember who or when, but someone here on OBurners started & posted a thread with pics about building & installing an idler on the longer alternator V belt.
& IIRC it was installed on the "bottom" side, the longer run between crank & alternator, & contacted the flat side of the belt, not the "V" side.
Seemed to work very good for him as well as several other folks that fabricated & tried it.
I always kinda remembered it but never tried it....... Now run a serpentine with a '94 Factory IDI Turbo engine in '90 Bessie, as well as my '92.
Was thinking about rigging one up also.
 

divemaster5734

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Turned it off after an hour total run time and found some fraying on the edge of the alt belt.
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Not sure what it is.
 

Black dawg

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Something isn't lining up.

The turbuckle on the alternator is in place of a bracket that does add support. The one on the ps is good, it just makes it easy to get tight.

I would maybe look up from underneath an see if you can see what is out of line. Sometimes helps to look closely at right where the belt enters or leaves the pulley, to see which side of the belt touches first.
 

Cubey

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Something isn't lining up.

The turbuckle on the alternator is in place of a bracket that does add support. The one on the ps is good, it just makes it easy to get tight.

I would maybe look up from underneath an see if you can see what is out of line. Sometimes helps to look closely at right where the belt enters or leaves the pulley, to see which side of the belt touches first.

Maybe use a long straight edge of some type between the vacuum pump pulley and alternator pulley, since the vac pump should line up with the outer side of the alt pulley. Although the thickness of the outer edge of the two pulleys might vary a little?
 

divemaster5734

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Something isn't lining up.

The turbuckle on the alternator is in place of a bracket that does add support. The one on the ps is good, it just makes it easy to get tight.

I would maybe look up from underneath an see if you can see what is out of line. Sometimes helps to look closely at right where the belt enters or leaves the pulley, to see which side of the belt touches first.

Maybe use a long straight edge of some type between the vacuum pump pulley and alternator pulley, since the vac pump should line up with the outer side of the alt pulley. Although the thickness of the outer edge of the two pulleys might vary a little?
I'll locate another alt bracket and go back to OEM.
Not all mods are better...lol
 

Old Goat

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Use a large Crescent or Open end on the large Block on top of the
Alternator to put tension on the belt.


Goat
 

divemaster5734

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Use a large Crescent or Open end on the large Block on top of the
Alternator to put tension on the belt.


Goat

Can't on vans, the alternator is under the cowl.

I use one of these because it has a little flex to it. Or at least my very old one does.

The truck had sat for about 7 years, and kept breaking belts after removing it from the forest.
It looked like a lot of wobble in the belts, and the alt threads for the tensioner were stripped, so used a prybar, held in place with my elbow to tension while tightening a nut and bolt.
Just assumed I couldn't get it tight enough but didn't want to spring for another 2G alt as I plan on going 3G once this wears out.
Figured the Heim Joints would be a decent upgrade.
Only after spending days fiddling around I put a DC ammeter on it and discovered the alt was pulling 97 amps at idle, and realized the external voltage regulator was bad, as there's no stator wire connected to the 2G.
That all worked, for a minute, now just have to revert to the OEM mounting style for the alignment.
Heading over today to hopefully find the bracket I pulled off, think I took it over to my C350 I'm doing at a friends place.
 

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