Factory turbo g-code blues

[bigpanda16]

Soon, I have read stacks here and lurked around while owning my 94 turbo idi for the last 3 years. I was towing my racecar last Thursday night on a four hour drive about half way there and we pulled into a rest area and as I braked we smelled raw fuel real strong. The valley had filled up and the no.1 injector Hardline began to drip Atpumped ump output every pump rotation and also let air in. Immediately the truck started skipping. I yanked the line and the 22 or 30 degree or whatever male seat looks like it has a groove in it. Wouldn't seal, it was initially a little loose. I am wondering if the injector failed shut to cause the sudden buildup of pressure? I have one spare rebuilt g-code I got from Midwest fuel injection I was going to put in place of the possible failed one. The truck was doing incredibly well running around 12,500 lbs all told, passing 18 wheelers and some cars running around 75mph... It was building heat no problems and accelerating up hills. Then bam, air intrusion and heavy leaking. There was no indication except a flutter I felt maybe 2 or 3 hills before the rest area.

Luckily I got the truck on a hot-shot wrecker home compliments of Atlanta triple A with only a few miles of overage. What I am wondering is would it be worth it to step up to Delphi bb injectors over my g's? I am tactically out of work and my truck is sitting in front of granny's house dead in the water. So I need to source used hardlines and install my lone backup injector. But long term, would i be better off? Do you need to retard the pump timing slightly to allow for the earlier opening at 19,000 psi vs 23,000 or whatever the difference is on the injector opening timing. My truck is timed by ear and really sings now that I have replaced my fuel filters.

I just recently did a power stroke 3.5" exhaust with sraight thru muffler and modded a super duty downpipe to fit my obs turbo elbow. Also last fall I put in an injection pump from Midwest, those two things made a hell of a difference. I put a large trans cooler to supplement the factory one that was already plumbed. So it goes out of trans to liquid to air then in the radiator then to another air cooler then back. I noticed the torque converter stays locked down and the front seal did far less weeping even though I was sort of flogging it. I am at a point to where I want to buy a billet converter or do a zf5 swap...

Anyway, please give me some opinions/ experience, change, whatnot. Thanks

 

[Dave 001]

I am wondering if the injector failed shut to cause the sudden buildup of pressure?

Do you need to retard the pump timing slightly to allow for the earlier opening at 19,000 psi vs 23,000 or whatever the difference is on the injector opening timing.

I can't answer your questions but if an injector were to totally fail shut, it would probably cause major damage to the injector pump. You can't compress a liquid. It would probably destroy the rollers or cam in the pump, break the driveshaft, or something else.

IDI's do not operate at 19,000 or 23,000 psi or anywhere near that. They're Powerstroke numbers.

If it was mine, I'd get a new G-code injector and possibly a new (or used) injector line. You said the truck was doing "incredibly well"....why mess with success?

Dave

 

[OLDBULL8]

All that rambling on and on makes it difficult to understand without reading your post several times.

Any how I'll try to address your "problems". I take it you have an IDI not a PSD.

Injector steel lines are available on ebay, they are expensive around $50 ea. May be able to get used ones.
Injectors don't usually stick closed, most always open. The lines will take, IIRC 8000 psi.
You said the line nut was loose and spewing fluid, possible that the pressure cut a groove in the sealing point.
The line nuts are torgued to 22 ft lbs. The line clamps must be on or the vibration (pump pulsing) can cause lines to break.
An IDI IP's nominal out put pressure is 5000 PSI not the 19,000 or 23,000 PSI you stated.
All IDI injectors ( G-BB-E-D codes) nominal popping pressure is factory set at 1850 PSI and can be set as Hi as 2300 PSI. Engine timing dictates where to set it if it's NA or turboed, and what the injector pop pressure is set at. NA is 8.5 - 9 degrees BTDC and turbo is 9.5 - 10.
Your transmission cooling should go thru the radiator 1st then thru an auxilliary cooler (only one) then back to the transmission. Water transfers more heat quicker than air. A double air cooler in series reduces the volumn of flow due to increased resistance in a round series tube cooler. The returned fluid is only used for cooling and lubrication of the trans. bearings. The trans temp is usually close to the engine temp., towing on flat ground will raise that temp about 20-25 degrees higher, depending on ambient temp. The TC (Torque Converter) temp. will run quite a bit higher than the trans., there is no way to montor it. Your fluid dripping is coming from the seal (pump to converter) drive shaft. That seal was updated on an E4OD to a Teflon seal on later models which will take a higher temp without melting. The original seal will melt and leak, but will heal up when temp goes down. It's just a single ring on the shaft. See pic below it's the Green ring, little hard to see.
I don't understand what you mean by " the torque converter stays locked down."
The TC locks up (direct drive to the Pump) when shifting into 3rd gear, it unlocks when downshifting into 2nd gear, the trans will go into OD as low as 36 MPH depending on your acceleration. Three sensors determine when it shifts into OD, FIPL setting, VSS, Tach sensor.
You should have at least these guages, EGT--Trans temp---Boost. EGT temp over 1250 degrees will start to melt (crack) the pistons if held at more than 4-5 minutes duration. A real coolant temp guage is also desirable.
Hope this helps, took an hour to type. Hunt and punch.

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