Electrical Gremlins...

[Shamoke]

I'd look at the mounting surface of the starter and make sure it's clean before mounting, also clean the bolts. Also make sure you have clean ground lugs to the batteries and all ground straps, this really sounds like a bad ground some where.

 

[saburai]

I'd look at the mounting surface of the starter and make sure it's clean before mounting, also clean the bolts. Also make sure you have clean ground lugs to the batteries and all ground straps, this really sounds like a bad ground some where.

That's what it seems like. However, I hit the bellhousing and starter mounting surfaces with emory cloth and brake cleaner. Bolts were wire wheeled and cleaned. Ground straps are good and I'm proud of all the cables and the small starter wire...

 

[ttman4]

you might be surprised at what doesn't work with bad grounds.

Ditto on that^^^
Bad grounds may not be your problem, but I'm a firm believer in good, clean, greased grounds, even extra grounds to any & everything!!

 

[Thewespaul]

Check the grounding terminal stud in front of the driver side battery. The fuse box in the engine bay grounds through it, I’ve had the outside of the stud be clean but it didn’t remedy a CC issue until I removed the stud from the core support and cleaned its threads.

 

[saburai]

Check the grounding terminal stud in front of the driver side battery. The fuse box in the engine bay grounds through it, I’ve had the outside of the stud be clean but it didn’t remedy a CC issue until I removed the stud from the core support and cleaned its threads.

Thanks! Will do.

 

[Jason1377]

Agreed. At some point in the very near future, right after we get set up on Pine Island, I'll make up a new wire. Even though the present one looks great and the way I'm starting it when the malfunction occurs is to touch it to battery hot...

Pine island where about is that has me curious never heard of it before.

 

[saburai]

Pine island where about is that has me curious never heard of it before.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pine_Island_(Lee_County,_Florida)

Pretty cool place. 1999-2004 I owned a gym, "The Center Health &Fitness" on the little island of Matlatcha. Now we just squat on different friends properties. We've got a pretty tricked out 30ft off grid RV, 1000 watts of panels on the roof and a on board UV/RO water system among othe coil stuff. This year we're at our friend's grass fed beef farm: www.pineshinefarms.com

 

[saburai]

Check the grounding terminal stud in front of the driver side battery. The fuse box in the engine bay grounds through it, I’ve had the outside of the stud be clean but it didn’t remedy a CC issue until I removed the stud from the core support and cleaned its threads.

Hi Wes, thanks for your knowledgeable input! I'm going to have a bit of time tomorrow morning, and I want to be sure exactly what you are talking about. Does the battery negative cable also go to the stud? Or is the stud just grounded to the frame via the core support?

 

[Thewespaul]

This one here, should be a smaller cable from the negative terminal going to it.

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[Thewespaul]

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[IDIBRONCO]

If I'm right, you can just follow the small wire that goes off of the negative cable end. Where ever it goes, that's it.

 

[retiredinhomer]

I've been a bit plagued by some electrical anomalies! Cruise control quit, mysterious e4od trouble codes and the most baffling (to me at least), I'm still having starting problems! Intermittently - 1 in 15, sometimes 2-3x in a row, I'll turn the key and although the fender mounted solenoid clicks, the starter doesn't crank. If I jump the terminals on the underhood solenoid - nothing. If I unbolt the starter solenoid lead and touch it to battery hot it starts every time. New NAPA starter (x2) and I've swapped the under hood solenoid between the original and a new NAPA unit with no change. The perplexing issue is that if I attempt to jump the connection. the starter wire and battery hot when the wires are attached to the solenoid I get nothing but when I remove the starter solenoid wire and touch it to the hot side it fires right up. Any suggestions?

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To be clear, the lose wire, normally on the left terminal in the picture is what I'm referring to above.

From your picture I only see one ground wire on the negative battery post of the battery. There should be two. Add another ground wire to post and ground your fender.( I would also ground the metal plate on the fender liner and attach another ground to the radiator core support.) Look at the wiring diagrams Wes sent to you it shows two connection on neg post of battery.
Use at least number 10 wire with yellow ring terminals.

 

[Cubey]

Intermittently - 1 in 15, sometimes 2-3x in a row, I'll turn the key and although the fender mounted solenoid clicks, the starter doesn't crank.

That sounds like what my F250 did leading up to the actuator in the steering column breaking. Presumably, it was cracked but not fully broken. Although I don't think the starter solenoid clicked. Or does the 87 6.9 (has the 7.3 GP system) have one? It has been a couple years so I can't remember for sure. I just know if I retried it would then work. Eventually, one morning it finally broke completely and the ignition was floppy and there was no starting it at the driver's seat.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Or does the 87 6.9 (has the 7.3 GP system) have one? It has been a couple years so I can't remember for sure.

Yes it does. That started in 1980 and ran until...? I don't know when Ford did away with the actuator (I assume that they did).

 

[Cubey]

Yes it does. That started in 1980 and ran until...? I don't know when Ford did away with the actuator (I assume that they did).

I meant the solenoid, not the actuator. I replaced the actuator on the F250 after it broke. I did have to replace the 7.3 style GP solenoid. It was weak and wouldn't always click on without first hitting it with a plastic screwdriver handle.